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Winter Wonderland
By David M. Frey
Photos by J. Kevin Foltz
There is a species of winter visitor — well, you’ll know them when you see them. They wear ski boots on the plane, keep their toque on for the flight and won’t let go of their ski poles, even when they go through the metal detectors. They pack everything in carry-ons so that the minute the plane hits the ground, they can be en route to the slopes for a couple top-to-bottoms before the lifts close. They’ll repeat the same routine starting at sunrise, and won’t quit until they can’t walk anymore.
There is another species of traveler — you’ll know them, too. They’re at the shops in the morning, the bars at night, and their visit will end without them so much as glancing at the ski slopes.
If the two ever meet, the truth about winter in the Colorado mountains might emerge. Skiing and snowboarding may be what draws most winter visitors to Colorado, but resort towns offer lots more than that. Here are some ways to make the most out of your vacation, on and off the slopes.
Brush up the Schuss Coloradans like to think our state is a change of pace from the rest of the country, and a visit here should be as well. Coming here should be about fun and relaxation, of course, but if you’re here for the slopes, it ought to be about pushing your limits, too. No matter your ability level, this should be a chance to expand your potential. In skiing and snowboarding, the fun grows as your ability grows and you spend more time on your skis and less time on the ground.
But don’t go it alone. Unpacking those boards and strapping them to your feet after a muscle-congealing summer is a good way to make bad habits so ingrained it would take a heavy dose of hypnosis to wipe them out of your head. Make the most of your visit and book a lesson. Remember, Colorado doesn’t just have some of the world’s best ski areas. It also has some of the best ski and snowboard coaches on staff at mountain resorts, and they’re there to help you improve.
If you’re a beginner skier, a fast way to a bad vacation is setting out on your own. And the best way to ruin a good relationship is to — gulp — take lessons from your significant other. Many ripe love affairs have ended at the bottom of a pile of snow strewn with ski gear. If you’re an intermediate, lessons are a good way to get a taste of adventure beyond what you’ve ever experienced. If you’re an expert, well, even ski racers keep taking lessons. That could mean heading off into the legendary bowls at Vail or Aspen Highlands, where the steep and deep offers challenges for the greatest skiers. Or it could mean taking your boards off piste for some backcountry adventure. Ski schools offer guided ski tours beyond the ropes for silent schussing down secret stashes
Try Something New
If you didn’t schlep your gear with you, try demoing something new when you rent — even something new every day. The technology of mountain fun is changing all the time, with new materials and new shapes literally changing the way people get down the hill.
Another great way to liven up your trip is to try out a new sport altogether. Skiers once considered snowboarders the bottom-feeders of snow sports. Now, longtime skiers are finding snowboarding gives them the kind of adrenaline rush they haven’t felt in years. Lots of devoted skiers have found new life on one board. The same goes in reverse.
One of the hottest trends in snow sports these days is one of the oldest. If you’ve ever watched the elegant deep-knee-bend dance of telemark skiers easing their way down the slopes, you’ve seen the rebirth of an old Norwegian technique in skiing. New technology has given it new life. Combining the free heel of cross-country skiing and the downhill exhilaration of alpine skiing, telemarking offers a back-to-your-roots touch, a graceful feel and a heck of a workout for your quads. For longtime skiers and boarders, it also offers a challenge they forgot skiing could offer.
Just remember, though, none of this comes overnight. Give yourself a few lessons before you toss the new stuff aside for your old gear.
Head Into the High Country
Remember that snow exists beyond the ski area, too, and wonder awaits. Try a pair of cross-country skis or snowshoes to explore mountain trails and venture into the backcountry. Nordic centers abound for the flats. They offer groomed courses for a beautiful trek into the trees.
For backcountry expeditions, try an area guide. They’ll provide the gear, some instruction and a guided adventure into the beauty of the Rockies you can only experience by surrounding yourself with snowclad aspens. Remember, avalanches are a real danger every winter, so don’t just go it alone.
You can also strap on a pair of snowshoes and head uphill on the ski slopes for a workout that a treadmill just can’t match.
But don’t feel like you have to do all the work yourself. In the snow, four legs can be better than two. Summer isn’t the only time for horseback rides. Some outfitters offer winter rides. And for a sense of nostalgia, there’s nothing better than, well, dashing through the snow in an open sleigh (more than one horse may be required).
For a little taste of the Yukon, you’ll find nothing more exhilarating than zipping through the snow on a dogsled. In Snowmass, look for Krabloonik, where a breathtaking dogsled ride ends at an elegant, gourmet meal in the mountains.
Or, head into the mountains the motorized way. Local outfitters lead groups deep into the high country through open meadows and dark timber into the stunning views above timberline. No prior experience is necessary, and snowmobiles offer families a great way to see sights they’ll never see from their hotel room window.
You can also get off the beaten track by getting off the track altogether. Hot-air balloon rides give you the chance to soar over the valleys and get a view of the Rockies like no other.
One of the newest winter sports is ice climbing. The same rocks that make for great adventure in the winter, when coated with veils of frozen waterfalls, make for an excitement going up that skiing and snowboarding offer coming down. Outfitters throughout the Colorado Rockies offer group and private instruction, and give you all the equipment you need for one of the hottest cold-weather sports around.
Colorado’s rushing rivers offer winter enjoyment for anglers. Check in with local guides for flycasting lessons, or for advice on the best places to cast your line on your own. You can also check out high country reservoirs, including the massive Lake Dillon, for great ice fishing.
Mountain Culture
Winter is when the mountains really heat up when it comes to nightlife and cultural activities. Bars jam all night with great music, whether you prefer jazz, reggae or rock ’n’ roll. But nightclubs aren’t the only place to find music.
The Vilar Center for the Arts at Beaver Creek is a 530-seat theater that serves as one of the finest venues in the region for the best in music, theater and dance. This winter’s highlights offer everything from renegade country singer Steve Earle to Verdi’s La Traviata.
In Aspen, stepping into the Wheeler Opera House is like stepping back in time. Built in 1889 at the height of Aspen’s silver boom, the opera house is just as central to Aspen’s vibrant cultural scene today as it was to silver miners. Winter events include visits by famed folksinger Greg Brown and the Grammy-nominated traditional mu-sic band The Boys of the Lough. The Aspen Music Festival presents exquisite classical performances at Harris Concert Hall this winter by the likes of the Emerson String Quartet and pianist Yefim Bronfman.
Remember the museums on your visit, too. In Vail, the Colorado Ski Museum & Ski Hall of Fame offers a unique glimpse into the ski pioneers who paved the way for the sports we enjoy today. Aspen’s Wheeler/Stallard Museum, home of the historical society HeritageAspen, provides a glimpse into Aspen’s yesteryear, from its Silver Boom to today’s skiing boom. The Aspen Art Museum brings high-caliber exhibits to the mountains, the sort of works you’d expect to see in an urban museum showcased in a cozy gallery tucked away beyond Aspen’s beaten path.
Festival Time Winter is the time for festivals in the mountains. Towns throughout the high country greet the holidays with old-fashioned festivals designed to get you in the mood for a white Christmas. The celebrations continue all winter as resort towns pay homage to the white stuff that defines winter in Colorado.
Breckenridge celebrates the holidays as only a ski town can. Holipalooza offers a dose of Victorian charm, plus a helping of adrenaline in the Vans Triple Crown of Snowboarding, throughout December. For a bit of old-fashioned character, check out the Lighting of Breckenridge on Dec. 6. New Year’s Eve gets underway with a torchlight parade from the top of Peak 9 to the Village at Breckenridge, followed by fireworks. From Jan. 9 to Feb. 15, Breckenridge pays homage to the Norse god of winter with Ullr Fest. The town hosts the International Snow Sculpture Championships Jan. 27 to Feb. 1. Leap year takes on a whole new meaning with the SOS Outreach Series Superpipe and Slopestyle snowboard competitions Feb. 28-29.
Vail lets loose with elite snowboarders competing for the sport’s largest single payout in The Session, Jan. 15-18. Skiers get crazy in the U.S. Freeskiing Open Jan. 27 to Feb. 1. On Wednesday evenings, Vail Village hosts the free Streetbeat concert series.
In Aspen, Wintersköl, Aspen’s annual toast to all things winter, celebrates its 54th annual winter celebration, Jan. 15-18. Wintersköl is Aspen’s classic hometown event, a time when Glitter Gulch remembers its funky underbelly. The celebration features events downtown and at its four ski areas, including a World’s Fair, a torchlight descent down Aspen Mountain and fireworks overhead. ESPN brings its Winter X Games VIII back to Buttermilk, showcasing top talents in winter’s most extreme sports. Gay and Lesbian Ski Week returns for its annual Aspen party Jan. 25 to Feb. 1.
Throughout the winter, Colorado’s resorts offer lots of opportunities on slope and off. For those of you who dread taking off those ski boots, it’s OK. Really. There’s more to the mountains than just the slopes. For those few who dread the thought of reaching high speeds on waxed boards over cold wet stuff, you might just find there’s a sport out there for you. For everyone else, the trick is finding a balance that lets you pack in as much as you can in one vacation. Remember, you can always come back.
David M. Frey is a freelance writer in Carbondale, Colorado. His work has appeared in various newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Denver Post and American Profile.
Aspen and Snowmass
the minute the plane hits the ground, they can be en route to the slopes for a couple top-to-bottoms before the lifts close. They’ll repeat the same routine starting at sunrise, and won’t quit until they can’t walk anymore.
Coloradans like to think our state is a change of pace from the rest of the country, and a visit here should be as well. Coming here should be about fun and relaxation, of course, but if you’re here for the slopes, it ought to be about pushing your limits, too. No matter your ability level, this should be a chance to expand your potential. In skiing and snowboarding, the fun grows as your ability grows and you spend more time on your skis and less time on the ground.
Another great way to liven up your trip is to try out a new sport altogether. Skiers once considered snowboarders the bottom-feeders of snow sports. Now, longtime skiers are finding snowboarding gives them the kind of adrenaline rush they haven’t felt in years. Lots of devoted skiers have found new life on one board. The same goes in reverse. 
One of the hottest trends in snow sports these days is one of the oldest. If you’ve ever watched the elegant deep-knee-bend dance of telemark skiers easing their way down the slopes, you’ve seen the rebirth of an old Norwegian technique in skiing. New technology has given it new life. Combining the free heel of cross-country skiing and the downhill exhilaration of alpine skiing, telemarking offers a back-to-your-roots touch, a graceful feel and a heck of a workout for your quads. For longtime skiers and boarders, it also offers a challenge they forgot skiing could offer. 
For backcountry expeditions, try an area guide. They’ll provide the gear, some instruction and a guided adventure into the beauty of the Rockies you can only experience by surrounding yourself with snowclad aspens. Remember, avalanches are a real danger every winter, so don’t just go it alone.
You can also get off the beaten track by getting off the track altogether. Hot-air balloon rides give you the chance to soar over the valleys and get a view of the Rockies like no other.
Winter is the time for festivals in the mountains. Towns throughout the high country greet the holidays with old-fashioned festivals designed to get you in the mood for a white Christmas. The celebrations continue all winter as resort towns pay homage to the white stuff that defines winter in Colorado.
In Aspen, Wintersköl, Aspen’s annual toast to all things winter, celebrates its 54th annual winter celebration, Jan. 15-18. Wintersköl is Aspen’s classic hometown event, a time when Glitter Gulch remembers its funky underbelly. The celebration features events downtown and at its four ski areas, including a World’s Fair, a torchlight descent down Aspen Mountain and fireworks overhead. ESPN brings its Winter X Games VIII back to Buttermilk, showcasing top talents in winter’s most extreme sports. Gay and Lesbian Ski Week returns for its annual Aspen party Jan. 25 to Feb. 1.