Stargazing in Aspen
Favorite Nightspots are a Constellation of Stars During Aspen Winters Astronomically speaking, the Colorado high country is a great place for serious space cadets to watch meteor showers, satellites crossing the night sky, planets going retrograde or stars twinkling in galaxies far, far away. But for close encounters of a celebrity kind, stargazing in our resort villages, particularly Aspen, can be just as rewarding. Long known as a favorite playground of the rich and famous, Aspen has over the years provided residential refuge to a number of well-known personalities, including members of the Kennedy family, actors Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell, Angelica Huston, Sally Field, Kevin Costner, Robert Wagner and Jill St. John, Don Johnson, and Jack Nicholson. Singer Jimmy Buffett and members of the Nitty Gritty Dirt Band also hold locals' status. The list of frequent visitors runs the celebrity gamut, from Arnold Schwarzenegger and Maria Shriver to Paul Simon, Oprah, Paul Hogan, Calvin Klein and Bill Clinton. Just where might you rub elbows with these folks? Well, Aspen boasts several hotels, restaurants and nightspots that count not only film and rock stars among their guests, but also political powerhouses and sports giants. And, of course, you might just spot a prince or a Backstreet Boy on the slopes of Ajax Mountain or at Snowmass. One great place to start is the elegantly historic Hotel Jerome on Main Street, where Rosie O'Donnell, Christie Brinkley, Sylvester Stallone, David Spade, Johnny Depp, Steve Forbes, Stephen Stills, Eddie Van Halen (and Valerie Bertinelli), Donald Trump (and Whoever), Al and Tipper Gore, Lee Iaccoca, MTV's Kennedy, Matt Lauer and a few dozen more heavy hitters have stayed. Inside the Jerome, visit the Library and the J-Bar, picked by Playboy magazine as one of the best taverns in the country and headquarters for gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson when he ran for Pitkin County Sheriff. Thompson, by the way, can now usually be found at the Woody Creek Tavern just down the road. Another good bet for catching that glimpse of a celebrity is the St. Regis on Dean Street at the base of Ajax, where piano music tinkles in the lobby lounge and Whiskey Rocks nightclub dishes up live music. Word on the street is that the St. Regis is a favored rest stop for lots of big names when they're in town. Looking for the definitive in Aspen chic? It flows freely at East Durant Street's Little Nell, where Oprah has been sighted on several occasions. Wintertime is the best time to run into musicians who are in town for performances. Check out The Greenhouse bar, where you might catch sight of a famous face. Dances with Wolves? How about Shoots Pool with Sharks? Kevin Costner is somewhat of a regular at Eric's on Hyman Avenue, where there's a main bar with microbrews and imports on tap, a pool room (where Kev hangs) and a cigar bar that serves up primo cigars and yummy martinis in a comfortable setting. If it's rock 'n' roll you seek and those who make the magic, Club Chelsea on the Hyman Avenue Mall is your CD (Club Designee). Lots of Aspen locals (read: celebrities) drop in often, either as headliners or to sit in. And for more live rock ’n’ roll stars, hit The Double Diamond on Galena Street. Among those who played here early on in their careers are Sheryl Crow, Bruce Hornsby, Jimmy Buffett, Widespread Panic, Bonnie Raitt, Blues Traveler and Barenaked Ladies. Consider that your tip-off.
Restaurants that draw celebrities include those at the Jerome and St. Regis, as well as Hannibal Brown's, where the cuisine is gourmet natural. And Kenichi sushi has served Chelsea Clinton, Clint Eastwood, Demi Moore and Dean Cain. For Mexican food and politico sightings, try the Cantina on Main Street, especially on election night. There's one more nightclub that must be mentioned, and that's the famed Caribou Club, a private place with no name on the door, but to which you can buy a weeklong membership. The bartender of the Collins Block (near the Wheeler Opera House) establishment makes it his business to learn your favorite drink — and remember it. The surroundings are absolutely remarkable, and the photo gallery on the website (www.caribouclub.com) tells the story of the club's guest list. Coffee houses such as Cafe Ink on Durant Street are good vantage points for people-watching, and if you down enough joe to float a battleship, your chances of spotting a celebrity increase. Health clubs and styling salons can be strategic locations, too. One Aspen local told us that her manicurist saw Meg Ryan, ball cap pulled low for that incognito effect, walking down the street and in dire need of having her nails done. If you book your trip to coincide with special events, you increase your odds of running into a famous face. The Aspen Film Fest in October is a surefire bet, and New Year's Eve at the St. Regis is fabled. The Wheeler Opera House hosts more than 300 events each year, including a tribute to the late John Denver that's attended by friends and family of the singer/songwriter/actor.
Five-time World Cup champion Kiki Cutter's Spirit of Skiing event in late January is still another big celebrity draw, and, for the past eight years in late February, HBO's U.S. Comedy Arts Festival has been held in Aspen. In addition to up-and-coming comedians, the festival showcases the talents of the country's best and brightest. Billy Crystal, Robin Williams, Steve Martin, Jerry Lewis, Jerry Seinfeld, Catherine O'Hara, Janeane Garafalo, Martin Mull, Fred Willard, Larry David, Albert Brooks, the guys of Monty Python, Rob Reiner, the Smothers Brothers, George Carlin, Mike Nichols, Elaine May and Martin Short have all been on the roster. Also, "The Simpsons" creator Matt Groening and program producers James L. Brooks and Mike Scully have attended. And, for the literati, there's the Aspen Writers' Foundation Winter Words, a reading/lecture series that's brought John Irving, Amy Tan, Peter Mathiessen, Spalding Gray and other renowned authors to town. So, now you know it's true: The stars really do shine just a bit more brightly in Aspen. And if you take a break from stargazing to look into the heavens above, you'll see they absolutely glitter over this famous Colorado resort town, too.. Kathleen Thomas is a freelance writer living in Hartsel, Colorado.

For Shaping Up or Chilling Out, Nothing Beats a Spa Experience
After conquering the longest, steepest and most technical ski runs, are you ready for a break from the slopes? Or are you perhaps looking for a completely different way to spend a day or a week during your winter vacation? Either way, think heavenly relaxation. Think total and complete rejuvenation of body and spirit. Think it sounds good? Think spa. As you consider a spa experience, you'll find plenty of choices throughout the winter resort regions. Virtually every area has a great selection of facilities for both men and women, ranging from day spas and hotel amenities to weeklong retreats. In Breckenridge, the Lodge and Spa at Breckenridge overlooks town on Boreas Pass Road. Partake of the athletic club and indoor pool, outdoor hot tubs, sauna and steam room and spend time with professional spa therapists trained in a variety of massage therapy techniques, manicures, waxing and facials. And this winter, East West Resort's Main Street Station at the southern end of Main Street will open its day spa. Blue Sage Spa(tel:970-453-7676) will be a 1,600-square-foot spa where patrons can indulge in a variety of specialized treatments, including couples massage, hydrotherapy, manicures, pedicures, facials, body wraps, waxing and "La Stone Therapy." Blue Sage will also offer treatments specifically designed for quicker sports recovery and high-altitude adjustment, oxygenating, detoxifying and hydrating the body. In Frisco you're well covered by Absolute Day Spa and Bodyworks, both on Main Street. Absolute offers massage therapy, microdermabrasion, clinical peels, mud wraps, chamomile body polishing, manicures, pedicures and the detoxifying European Kurs. At Bodyworks you can receive a hot stone massage, private steam bath, deep tissue massage, rain-drop therapy massage, facial, citrus sea-salt scrub, moisture wrap, acupuncture (traditional and "no needle"), chiropractic treatment and yoga. In Glenwood Springs, is Yampah Spa & Salon, the hot springs vapor caves where treatments also include mud and body wraps and full salon services. (Tel: 970-945-0667). Vail and Beaver Creek practically wrote the book on spas. At Vail Mountain Lodge and Spa, you'll be treated to the purifying Moor Remedy treatment (20,000-year-old mud is used) and the shirodhara head, face and scalp oil rub. An inclusive package features a guided snowshoe or cross-country ski tour prior to your treatment. (Tel: 970-476-0700 or VailMountainLodge-Spa.com) At Vail Cascade Resort's Aria Spa & Club you can get your motor running with aerobics or relax to a hot stone massage or herbal wrap. Another tempting treatment is the Vail Mountain Purifying Wrap with botanical Colorado mud. (Tel: 888-824-5772 or www.VailCascade.com)
Gorgeous Cordillera Lodge and Spa in Edwards (Vail Valley) presents a wide variety of massage, craniosacral, polarity, acupuncture, aromatherapy and hydrotherapy sessions, as well as skin treatments. Cordillera also has fine workout equipment, and its series of wellness programs will help you not only to attain but also to retain your fitness. Sonnenalp Spa in Vail customizes your visit for optimum benefit, and reflexology, neuromuscular, cranial sacral, polarity and prenatal massage therapists are available. Body treatments include Anti-Stress Aromatherapy and Firming Seaweed Treatment. Relax and tone with yoga or sign-on with a personal trainer at Sonnenalp. Multi-day spa experiences are available as well. The beautiful Allegria Spa at Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort & Spa is known for its getaway packages, among which is the intriguingly named Skier's Rescue. For two hours you can forget the pounding you took on the slopes with an après-ski massage, foot reflexology and a refresher facial. Allegria also features individual fitness programs for women only, with focus on conditioning and nutrition. (Tel: 970-949-1234 or www. beavercreek.hyatt.com) Still in the Vail Valley (what did we tell you?), the Charter at Beaver Creek has a 17,000-square-foot spa and health club with massage, aromatherapy, facial, hair and nail treatments. Great exercise equipment, a 20-meter pool, free weights, saunas and steam rooms await. On to Aspen, where being beautiful and fit is almost a requisite. Given the number of spas in this wonderful little town, your chances of finding the perfect one for you are even better. The Little Nell, where celebrities sweat just like normal folk, has a full exercise room, a heated outdoor pool and Jacuzzi and a stunning garden setting. There are private massage rooms, a steam room, cardio theater (we presume this does not imply surgery) and personal trainers. Remember, Oprah is partial to The Little Nell. Ayurvedic tea served to you as you recline in a pillow chair starts the unwinding process at the Aspen Club near downtown, where fitness, adventure and pampering are given equal billing. Whirlpools, steam rooms, sauna, mind/body classes, massage, sports medicine, swimming, tennis and great food are part and parcel of this spa experience. One of the most unique spas is Global Fitness Adventures in Aspen, where you begin your day with yoga and then set out on an invigorating hike. Upon your return, you soak in a rock Jacuzzi, give in to a fabulous massage and then enjoy a healthy meal. Depending on the package you choose, you can also enjoy white-water rafting, mountain biking, horseback riding, Tai Chi, fishing, golf, hot-air ballooning and hang-gliding. Beauty treatments are an option as well. And last but far from least is the spa at Aspen's glamorous St. Regis Hotel. Choose from several massage techniques and be pampered with a facial and manicure/pedicure. You can even go for the poolside massage in a private tent or avail yourself of the fully equipped fitness center and health club. If your major muscle groups have suddenly begun urging you to make an appointment at one of these bastions of pampering, remember this: Wherever you are in the Colorado Rockies, the promise of complete relaxation and rejuvenation is only a call away. Now, isn't that a nice thought? Kathleen Thomas is a freelance writer living in Hartsel, Colorado.

Before You Hit The Slopes – Preparing for Your Ski Vacation
Sure, it would be great to spend a couple of days researching your ski trip on the Internet, chatting with a travel agent and setting out a whole itinerary of what to do and where to ski while you’re in Colorado. But if you have that kind of time, you ought to be spending it skiing, not thinking about skiing. So even if you find yourself in the middle of your resort destination with no car, no skis and no gear, don’t worry. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a long-time veteran, last-minute plans won’t leave you stuck in the lodge while everyone else is on the powder. No car? You don’t need one. Colorado’s ski towns are wonderfully walkable, whether you’re in an old mining town like Breckenridge, or a relatively young ski village like Vail. If you want to sample a couple of different resorts — say to compare the powder at Aspen and Snowmass Village, or to try both Copper Mountain and Keystone — you’ll find the local buses and shuttles both free and convenient, and less of a hassle than worrying about finding a parking spot. Here for five days? Try five different pairs of skis. No skis? No worries. Resorts abound with ski shops eager to rent equipment for every skill level. In fact, says Jodi Straugh, president of Lynx Ski & Golf Vacations in Denver, you might be better off with rentals. “With the advent of new ski equipment, which just happened really in the last five years, it’s more fun to try this new equipment,” she says. If you’re used to straight skis, sampling the latest in shaped skis can make skiing feel like a whole new sport. The gentle curves at the front and back of the ski give you a big boost of control through your turns. If you’re an average skier, gliding through powder on shaped skis can make you feel like a superstar. If you’re an expert, they can make you feel like a Norse god. For some visitors, Straugh says, part of the fun of the vacation can be trying out this new equipment. Here for five days? Try five different pairs of skis. Or take the opportunity to find out what all the snowboarding fuss is about. No gear? No fear. Of course, ski towns are filled with shops eager to sell the latest in skiwear. For lots of visitors, that’s part of the fun, too, but it’s not your only choice. Many resorts have shops that rent ski clothes — from gloves to parkas. So if that down jacket won’t do you much good back in Florida, or your other glove is waiting for you back in Chicago, consider renting what you need, then leave it here and save the room in your luggage. Some shops will even deliver right to your room. Wherever your gear comes from, choose carefully. One of skiing’s biggest challenges is figuring out what to wear. It’s not just the slope-side fashion police. Colorado weather is hard to predict, except that it’s unpredictable. You might be shivering in a blizzard one minute, sweating in the sun the next. Blue skies in the morning could mean gray skies by afternoon. That means preparing for whatever Mother Nature throws at you. And that means dressing in layers. “During the winter months, temperatures can fluctuate drastically,” says Chris Fauce, at the Lodge at Lionshead in Vail. “Thirty degrees on a sunny day can feel like 80. Fifty degrees on a cloudy day can feel colder than it is.” The good news is that if you don’t have a Billy Bogner designer one-piece, you don’t need one. On most days, Fauce says, if you’ve got a warm layer of fleece over a set of good long underwear, add a powder jacket and pants to keep off the snow and you’re good to go.
Goggles are a good idea, too. On sunny days, they’ll cut down on the brutal glare shining from above and below. On blustery days, they’ll help block out the wind. And remember, thanks to the thin mountain air and all that white stuff on the ground, sunburn can be a problem even on the coldest winter day, so be sure to put on plenty of sunscreen. While you’re strapping on gear, consider adding a helmet to the list. It used to be that only 7-year-olds setting off sonic booms as they barreled down the mountain wore helmets. These days, more and more adults are catching on, too. Even if you don’t ski like a bat out of hell, just knowing that someone else on the mountain does is reason enough to put one on. Expert skiers who love carving turns through the trees are strapping them on, too. Consider every stately aspen and spruce that breezes by another reason to protect your head. “All the ski rental shops that we work with have helmets either for rent or complimentary,” Straugh says. “You know, you wouldn’t ride a bike for a full day without a helmet. Why would you ski for a full day without a helmet?” Got your gear? You’re ready to ski. But take it easy. Remember, Denver’s a mile high and it’s at the bottom of the mountains. Altitude can affect everybody differently, and it can affect the same person differently at various times. Patsy Pelaia, concierge at the Hotel Jerome in Aspen, always tells her guests to pace themselves on their first day and save the more aggressive skiing for later in the trip. Hold off on the aggressive partying, too. “We tell them to drink as many fluids as possible,” she says. “Not alcoholic.” No matter how long you’ve been skiing, it’s a good idea to take lessons and get your ski legs back. If this is your first time, learning from an instructor can make a world of difference. Remember, you have some of the world’s best ski instructors here, so you might as well take advantage of them. For beginners, lessons can be crucial to launching a happy ski hobby. Advanced skiers can use lessons to push them to the next level. For expert skiers, special clinics in bumps, steeps and powder can help them master the extremes. “We tend to recommend private lessons as opposed to group lessons for the more advanced skiers,” says Mike Noha, at Centennial Lodge in Beaver Creek Resort. “I think you get more in tune. You can handpick an instructor more attuned to your level.” If you’re skiing in Aspen, Pelaia recommends taking advantage of the Aspen Skiing Co.’s ambassador program. At no cost, handpicked ambassadors will take visitors for a tour of the mountain, showing them the places that mesh best with their ability levels. It sure beats wrestling with a trail map on the lift. No matter what resort you go to, you’ll find terrain that suits your needs, but some places fit better than others. If you’re skiing at Keystone, expect lots of terrain and lots of company. Copper Mountain and Breckenridge offer prime skiing, and are a bit more intimate. Vail is simply vast, with lots of terrain for all ability levels. Nearby Beaver Creek is smaller, but more family-oriented, with varied runs and shorter lift lines. Aspen has four mountains to sample. Aspen Mountain and Aspen Highlands appeal mostly to experts. Beginners lean toward Buttermilk. Snowmass Village offers a banquet of cruisers, plus the daunting Hanging Valley Wall and the Cirque for experts, and lots of terrain meant just for kids. Confused? If your lodge has a concierge, ask for specific recommendations about where to ski and things to do. Chances are, they’ve all sampled more than good taste would allow them to share. But the most important part of your vacation is having fun. The only real secret to skiing is pointing your boards downhill and enjoying the ride. David M. Frey is a freelance writer in Carbondale, Colorado. His work has appeared in various newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune, the Los Angeles Times, the Denver Post and American Profile. Lynx Ski & Golf Vacations books getaways throughout the American West, Canada and Europe. To contact them, call 800-422-5969, or visit their website at www.lynxskivacations.com.

Showtime Dazzles the Rockies
BRAVO! Vilar Center for the Arts and The Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater Vilar Pavilion When Alberto Vilar first visited the Vail Valley in 1988, he was immediately smitten with its drop-dead beauty, bitten hard by the skiing bug, and soon written into the roster of Beaver Creek residents. But for this Cuban-born investment businessman and aficionado of the arts, something in his adopted home was missing: a year-round venue for cultural and performing arts. Working with the Beaver Creek Arts Foundation, it didn't take long until the Vilar Center for the Performing Arts became a reality. The center opened in February of 1998. With its debut, Beaver Creek became the first mountain resort community in the world to maintain its own performing arts facility and present an annual series of diversified, cultural events. Though partly financed by donations from Vail Valley residents, Vilar became the naming patron both for his contributions and his passion for performing arts. "Culture enriches our life," said Vilar, "What would life be without Mozart, as the saying goes." On opening night, violinists Ida and Ani Kavafian played with the Santa Fe ProMusica Chamber Orchestra. Their performance set the standard for the venue, as well as setting the stage for things to come. Since then, the Vilar Center has hosted acclaimed artists in classical music concerts, jazz, dance, opera, film, musicals, comedy and dramatic presentations, all of the caliber you're accustomed to seeing at Carnegie Hall or the Kennedy Center in Washington D.C. Certainly, you wouldn't expect to find such world-class performers in a theater just steps away from ski lifts, and definitely not in a venue hidden beneath a skating rink. The Venue Deep within the resort's Market Square Building sits an exquisite theater — intimate, luxurious, welcoming, and burnished by the warmth of natural wood. Inspired by the design of Littman's Kunstler, a turn-of-the-century theater landmark in Munich, the Vilar Center recalls the classic architecture of grand European halls, with a horseshoe-shaped auditorium and imposing ceilings and columns that envelop the visitor in splendor. Yet despite such magnificence, the theater is surprisingly intimate, offering just 530 seats, each with an unobstructed view of the stage from orchestra, parterre, balcony and box seats. The theater's meticulous design also assures acoustics of absolute perfection. The facility’s rich design continues into the lower lobby, where carpets and fabrics are decked out in autumnal colors and accented by natural wood and stone. A stunning wall of glass is engraved with the names of patrons and beautifully detailed etchings of aspen groves and wildlife. Meanwhile, the muted tones of the lobby walls recall the color of the sky at dusk to harmonize with the Rocky Mountain environment surrounding them. Kudos for the theater design go to two architectural giants: Hardy Hotzman Pfeiffer & Associates of Los Angeles, whose theater accomplishments include the Minneapolis Orchestra Hall, Denver's Boettcher Hall and the performing arts centers in Anchorage, Alaska and Eugene, Oregon; and Pierce Segerberg & Associates of Vail and Denver, who take credit for the designs of the Sonnenalp Hotel in Vail and the Chateau, Pines and Greystone landmarks in Beaver Creek. Like the Vilar Center, each incorporates regional imagery. The May Gallery lies off the upper lobby of the Vilar Center, a patrons' lounge resplendent with velvet couches, cloth walls and a grand piano. Designed by Savage & Associates of Encino, California, the gallery showcases art collections on loan from Beaver Creek residents, as well as antique architectural drawings on permanent loan from Peter and Leni May.
The Performers Over the past three years, performers at the Vilar Center have offered a dazzling diversity of entertainment. From the People's Republic of China, the Peking Opera enthralled audiences with song, dance, juggling, sword-throwing and amazing acrobatics. The Capitol Steps, those witty, political satirists, poked fun at the serious issues in Washington. Ballet Folklorico-Quetzalli de Veracruz brought colorful dances of Mexico to the stage. Oscar-winning composer Marvin Hamlisch, classical flutist Eugenia Zukerman, the Lakota Sioux Indians dance troupe, and comedian Steven Wright were some of the headliners who’ve filled the Vilar Center. For a complete calendar of performances call (970) 845-TIXS or 888-920-ARTS or visit www.vvf.org. The Future Because Alberto Vilar was discouraged as a youth to pursue his study of the violin, one of his goals is to make cultural arts available to the children and students of Eagle County and the surrounding area in Colorado. "The Vilar Center should become the cultural lightning rod for the valley, especially its youth. I cannot impress enough how important it is to expose young people to the performing arts early in their lives,” Vilar declares. “This is when many are open to new experiences, and this cultural exposure could very well enrich the rest of their lives." The Gerald R. Ford AmphithEA-ter Vilar Pavilion Since President and Mrs. Gerald Ford adopted the Vail Valley as their second home in the 1980s, their significant contributions of time and effort toward the area's growth were acknowledged with the naming of two of Vail's landmarks, The Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater and the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Both are summertime legends, attracting visitors to a most extraordinary array of high altitude flowers and to performances of dance, ballet, classical and popular music. During the past year, Alberto Vilar added his name to Vail's premier summer entertainment venue. The Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater Vilar Pavilion is a reconstructed and expanded version of its former self. The popularity of its offerings demanded an upgrade to the already outstanding amphitheater. As in past years, music and dance devotees will enjoy a summer filled with a diverse menu of entertainment. Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival presents the compelling sounds of chamber, orchestra and jazz during its 15th season next summer. The 14th Vail International Dance Festival electrifies August with creative and innovative dance companies performing in a wildflower-encircled setting as beautiful as dance itself. Hot Summer Nights gives popular music lovers a treat: Each Tuesday evening in June and July, guests can rock to a free concert in the famed amphitheater. If this whets your appetite for a summer visit, call 888-VVF-VAIL, or visit vvf.org for information and a calendar of summer performances. Lillian Ross writes regular travel columns for the Denver Rocky Mountain News, edits Colorado travel planners, and writes articles for Colorado-based feature magazines, including Vail Valley Golf.

The Thrill of Dogsledding
“Have you ever stood where the silences brood And the vast horizons begin, At the dawn of the day to behold far away The goal you would strive for and win? Yet ah! In the night when you gain to the height, With the vast pool of heaven star-spawned, Afar and agleam like a valley of dream, Still mocks you a Land of Beyond.” —Robert Service, from The Land of Beyond "The dogs and the driver become one and work as a team." Riding a dogsled at Dan MacEachan’s Krabloonik ranch is not exactly like the Alaskan exploration experience Robert Service describes in The Land of Beyond, but it might be the next closest thing in the Lower 48. In fact, MacEachan has brought to Snowmass years of passion and experience in the dogsledding business gained from Alaska’s “last great race,” the famed Iditarod, which MacEachan and his Krabloonik dogs regularly compete in. Dogsledding is both a sport and an art form. It embodies a spirit of adventure and exploration and a tenacity and persistence against the elements. It requires strength, training, dedication and stamina, not only on the part of the dogs — who work and perform their tasks like Olympic athletes — but on the part of the musher, or driver, as well. “The experience of driving a sled team is a physical, mental, and emotional one beyond anything I know,” MacEachan writes about his work. “The dogs and the driver become one and work as a team.” When you visit Krabloonik, or any of the other dogsledding operators in the area, you experience a sampling of that teamwork, and a taste of what it would be like to race across the Arctic powered by well-bred animals alone. A two-hour tour, costing about $150, will not only be a memorable adventure, but also impart a bit of awe and respect for those, like MacEachan, who take the sport to its highest level — the Iditarod. That race follows a 1,200-mile path from Anchorage to Nome and from the high peaks of the Alaskan Range to the icy shores lapping the Bering Strait, with temperatures pushing 50 degrees below zero. It takes winners nine grueling days, with the last group finishing as late as a month after the starting gun. The race commemorates a desperate 1925 emergency run when a diphtheria serum was needed in Nome to save the lives of ailing children — back when sled dogs were a primary method of transport across the frozen land. Today, dogsledding echoes its 2,000 years of tradition and utility among the Inuit and explorers of the north mainly through recreation, and its popularity has spread south to Canada and the northern United States, as well as to the winter resorts of Aspen, Vail and central Colorado.
MacEachan built his 200-dog Krabloonik kennel as a continuation of a well-known Ashcroft kennel, Toklat, which was founded in 1947 after previously using its dogs with the Fifth Mountain Division in World War II. He spent years apprenticing, learning the techniques and the trade of mushing, breeding and caring for the dogs with whom he and the other drivers have grown very close. His business is run with passion and hard work, and it’s rich in history. The Krabloonik mushers try to impart that history to the hundreds of guests they take out every season. The handcrafted sled sits idle in the snow with 12 anxious Huskies harnessed two to a row in front. It looks too small, but somehow you and your companion squeeze on board, and the musher hops on behind. You’re almost ready, but not quite. “Ha, Ha,” your musher shouts, and abruptly the straining dogs are released from their stance and launch forward in unison. Snow flies up and smacks you coldly in the face before your breath is drawn totally in and your weight pressed back by inertia into the sled. The rush of cold mountain air, brisk movement, and awe-inspiring scenery blend in an amalgamation of excitement. You’re off. Sitting just a few inches above ground level, you are whisked through the powdered valleys of the Snowmass-Maroon Bells Wilderness. Rocky peaks glisten in the sunlight overhead, skiers descend on the flanks of the Snowmass resort area and trees rush by perilously close, as your sled banks into a hard turn through the woods. “It’s pretty exciting. I always scream — it’s like an amusement ride to me,” says Denise Glass, who, with her husband William, owns and operates Mountain Mushers, a dog sled company based near Beaver Creek. “The dogs go really fast, and every direction you go in you see something totally different.” Mountain Mushers is another large kennel in the central part of the state, operating 10 sled rides a day, six days a week. The fact that 1,500 people rode with Mountain Mushers last season is testament to the sport’s popularity, and the value of the experience. The Glass’ large kennel holds about 90 Siberian and Alaskan dogs, and their routes offer breathtaking views of the Beaver Creek ski area and dramatic Castle Peak, as well as glimpses of Glenwood Canyon, nearly 30 miles away. So when your legs start to feel like lead and two days of straight skiing become too much, hop on a sled and let yourself be taken for a ride. You’ll find a unique and culturally rich adventure to fill your day of “rest” without skipping a beat. Abrahm Lustgarten is an award-winning freelance photojournalist and author based in San Francisco, CA. His work documenting sports, travel and culture has appeared in various publications, including Newsweek, Men's Journal, and Outside.

Hiking a Colorado Fourteener
I had heard about the Knife Edge long before I ever saw it. Known as one of the single most dramatic hiking experiences in the Rockies, the 14,130-foot Capitol Peak’s easiest route traverses a 100-foot long ridge of solid, but inch-wide, granite. My hands were clammy with anticipation. I parked at the Capitol Creek trailhead, nine miles up a rough dirt road from the town of Snowmass, nearly six hours earlier as the sun was striking Capitol’s dramatic peak in the far distance. The journey to Capitol Lake, a steady uphill grind through pristine meadows and peaceful stands of Aspen forest, was reward enough for my effort. If I had stopped there my day would have been complete. Instead, I continued up the steeper slopes towards the mountain’s tough east ridge, gaining 1,000 feet for every half mile. At about 12,000 feet, I encountered a long, lazy snowfield whose end abuts K2, the eastern sub-peak below the summit ridge. It was July and I had packed light for the long summer hike, bringing only running shoes, water, a couple of PowerBars® and a raincoat. My feet were wet, but thus far, this was relatively easy. But as I rounded K2’s knobby top at 13,662 feet and descended slightly to the start of the final ridge climb, I caught my first glimpse of the famous traverse. The guidebook hadn’t exaggerated; the fin of rock protruded like a ship’s hull, belly-up into the thin air. On either side, the rock faded swiftly, dropping more than a thousand feet to piles of gnarly rubble far below. It was, like I’d been warned, narrow enough to wrap around the palm of my hand. The guidebook suggested a rope and belay on this portion of the climb, but since I was alone, that was impossible. I relied instead on the best tool you can have for a summer climb in Colorado’s high peaks — experience. With a deep breath, I recognized that panic would be my downfall, and that the key to making this traverse and the rest of the climb safely, would be to keep a cool clear head. The sky was clear and the rock was dry. The conditions couldn’t be better for a safe traverse. I could walk the ridge like a tightrope — glamorous, but not my style. I could crawl across it on my belly, legs straddling the ridge — slow and less than elegant. That wouldn’t work either. I grasped the ridge top with both hands like a bicycle handlebar, opposing the pressure of my feet and stepping my body fully onto one side of the ridge with a deep breath. My heels hung out over the empty space, my toes pasted to the slab of rock only by the friction of their rubber soles, and the view grew more stunning with every foot gained. This was the single most enjoyable moment I have ever had in the mountains. By the time I reached the other side of the ridge, cotton-like cumulus clouds were building near the summit. I had a few hundred feet to go, and the timer had started ticking. Given the stage of the day’s weather buildup, rule of thumb said that if I weren’t descending the summit by 12 p.m. — in less than an hour — I would be forced to turn back for fear of Colorado’s notorious afternoon thunderstorms. I persisted, weaving delicately up gullies of loose rock, letting the small ones bounce off my helmet, and praying the big ones stayed put. I tried not to pull on anything, or step too hard. Every move was the product of deliberate decisions and balance. In this way, after hiking 13 miles and gaining over 3,000 feet in elevation, I finally reached the summit. My reward was a Rocky Mountain panorama that remains unrivaled after climbing 14 more of Colorado’s highest peaks. This is the most beautiful spot I know in the entire state.
There are 54 peaks in Colorado that surpass 14,000 feet, with routes ranging from easy hikes and drive-ups to roped rock climbs. Climbing all the “fourteeners” is among the most coveted claims of outdoor athletes, and while some spend a lifetime signing their names to ragged summit registers, others race to climb the peaks in a matter of days. The current record in Colorado is just over 10 days. Of all the peaks, many say Capitol is the most worthwhile. While some routes are nothing more than easy hikes, others are serious business. All require caution and preparedness, even in the lazy warmth of summer. Snow and ice storms are frequent every month of the year, and while summer mountaineering usually avoids the treacherous snow and frozen slippery conditions, it comes with the predictably unstable thunderstorm trends of warm weather. To be safe, plan your trip so that you are off the summit before 1 p.m., and having some back-pocket knowledge of mountain weather trends wouldn’t hurt either. If you see the weather changing early, or you’re just not feeling in your prime, turn back. Survival means you can come back to try again. Having good route finding skills is also important, especially in the Rockies, where being 10 feet off a steep route can mean a substantial difference in difficulty. Most of Colorado’s Rockies, especially the Sawatch, Ten-Mile, and Elk Ranges, are notorious for loose rock. Piles, known as scree slopes, can extend for miles, and in some cases one harsh move, trip, or jump can unbalance an acre worth of rock. Helmets are prudent, and climbers should beware not only of rock falling from above, but also of setting loose objects, which may hit climbers below. Capitol Peak, one of the most dramatic in the state, is also reputed to be one of the most serious climbs, with its easiest route rated at class 4. When you review route ratings, classes 1-2 are considered steep walking, class 3 requires caution, route finding ability and awareness of loose rock, and class 4 is more of the same, with a rope sometimes recommended. Class 5 is roped rock climbing. If you have some experience in the mountains, or are traveling with an experienced guide, class 3-4 routes are among the most rewarding. But there are plenty of area fourteeners that are substantially less demanding. In Summit County look into Quandary Peak, where a rough road to Blue Lake will lead you within two miles of an easy walk to the summit register. If Aspen is your base, consider nearby Castle Peak, or an approach of Mount Elbert, the highest summit in the state, from Independence Pass. There are numerous guidebooks to help you along the way. My time-tested bible is Gerry Roach’s Colorado’s Fourteeners, an easy-to-use directory of varied routes organized by peak. Abrahm Lustgarten is an award-winning freelance photojournalist and author based in San Francisco, CA. His work documenting sports, travel and culture has appeared in various publications, including Newsweek, Men's Journal, and Outside.

It’s Summertime in the Rockies!
If you’re reading this, chances are you’re in on the secret. So please, don’t tell anyone else about your visit to Colorado in the summertime. Tell them about the afternoon thunderstorms — just don’t tell them they only lasted 15 minutes. Tell them about the bruising you took on your mountain bike — just don’t mention the spectacular views along the way. Most visitors still think of Colorado as a wintertime getaway. Those of us who live here like to think of spectacular summers in the Rockies as our little secret. The mountains beckon us to set out on a hike, on a bike or on horseback. Rivers seem made for rafting. Rocks seem made for climbing. The truth is, though, our little secret is out. Mountain resorts that once boomed in the winter and slumbered in the summer are bustling year-round these days, with concert series offering everything from rock to jazz and classical and hot nightlife to keep locals and visitors busy ’round the clock. Some of your choices might surprise you. Water Wonders Maybe you’ve skied Colorado, but have you ever sculled Colorado? Cradled by the Gore, Williams Fork and Ten Mile mountain ranges, Lake Dillon Reservoir is 3,300 acres of shimmering waters in the mountains. Between the towns of Dillon and Frisco, the lake provides drinking water for the people of Denver and a range of summertime fun for those of us out here. Full-service marinas are available at both Dillon and Frisco, with a range of options for exploring this mountain lake. Need to feel the wind in your sails? Rent a sailboat. Need a little more power? Rent a motorboat. If you feel like doing the work yourself, try taking a canoe or a kayak out for paddle, or just kick along in a paddleboat. And yes, for those skilled at sculling, or who just want to be, oarboats are available for a cruise through the lake that’ll give your upper-body a workout. You can even leave the sailing to someone else. Sailboat tours leave from Dillon. Scenic tours leave from Frisco. And for anglers, Lake Dillon is home to brown trout, rainbow trout and Kokanee salmon. Onshore, you’ll find cabins to rent, 313 campsites and plenty of hiking and biking trails, plus Jeep tours into the mountains to old ghost towns. Rapid-Fire Thrills If you prefer your adventures on water that’s moving a little faster, try rafting through some Rocky Mountain whitewater. It’s hard to imagine a more exhilarating way to explore the mountains than on a rushing river, plunging and crashing through narrow canyons. In Summit County, take a plunge through the raging waters of Brown’s Canyon on the Arkansas River. In Vail and Beaver Creek, take an icy trip through the legendary Shoshone Rapids on the mighty Colorado. In Aspen and Snowmass, discover the “roar” in the Roaring Fork River. Lots of well-trained raft guides are on hand to give you a safe taste of adventure in some of the finest whitewater in the country. Angling For Enjoyment Of course, you can enjoy these mountain rivers with a little less adrenaline. The same rivers that offer take-your-breath-away rapids also offer plenty of quiet nooks where anglers can cast a line from a fly rod and come away with a trout, and a little piece of solitude. These are Gold Medal fishing waters, from the Colorado to the Roaring Fork to the Frying Pan. Try asking at a bait shop for favorite spots that locals are willing to share. If it’s your first time, guide companies are happy to show you the art of the cast and take you to their favorite spots, either from the shore, or drifting downstream in a dory. Mountain Magic For some, the only way to be in the mountains is to be in the mountain, and lots of trails take off into the wilderness where you can surround yourself with wildflowers, shimmering aspens and the honey smell of deep timber. Set off however you like: on foot, a bike or on horseback. It’s hard to find a mountain town without a bike shop, and the staff can offer lots of local wisdom about favorite trails, whether you’re a beginner or an expert. They can also outfit you with all the gear you need to spin your way into mountain bliss. The same mountains that make for killer face shots in the winter make for breathtaking mountain bike rides in the summer. For those who prefer to get into the backcountry the old-fashioned way, lots of outfitters are available to get you on horseback for a Western amble through meadows of wildflowers and glades of aspen trees. For an over-the top-experience, try soaring through the mountains in a hot-air balloon ride. Companies take off from Summit County, the Vail Valley and Snowmass Village, offering an unparalleled way to explore the splendor of the mountains.
Fairway Fun Golfers will find their mountain bliss on the greens, and they’ll find plenty of Colorado courses well above par. Even if you’re not staying at a golf resort, you’ll find lots of options with tough challenges and the privacy and feel of a members-only club, all designed by top-notch architects. Local legend holds that the thin mountain air will drive your ball farther here. Maybe that’s true, or maybe these panoramic vistas give the inspiration for a little added oomph. Down the valley from Aspen and Snowmass Village, you’ll find River Valley Ranch, a challenging course designed by Jay Morrish along the Crystal River in the pleasant town of Carbondale. Set amid a 520-acre residential community, River Valley Ranch is public but feels private, with stunning views of glorious Mount Sopris looming in the distance. Just a few minutes from downtown Aspen, you’ll find the Aspen Golf Club. The Frank Hummel-designed course offers 7,215 yards of play and is open seven days a week, with a full-service pro shop, lessons with PGA staff, a driving range, cart rental and restaurant. Down the road from Vail at the town of Eagle, you’ll find the Arnold Palmer-designed Eagle Ranch Golf Course. The course winds through the beautiful Brush Creek Valley, while the peaks of the Sawatch Range tower above. Five sets of tees ranging from 5,400 to 7,500 yards provide challenges for all skill levels. And a name like Eagle Ranch has to bring some luck, right? The Vail Golf Club, designed by Ben Krueger, offers golfers stunning views of the Gore Range. (For all you bird-lovers, it’s also designated an Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary.) This par-71 championship course has a pro shop, driving range, locker rooms, restaurant and snack shop. In Silverthorne, The Raven at Three Peaks is a spectacular semi-private club with panoramic views of the Gore Range (or is that the “Fore” Range?) everywhere you look. Course designers wanted to make sure golfers remember where they are while sending the balls soaring over the fairways. Native grasses line the bunkers, and Colorado pines and aspens wind through a course marked with sparkling creeks and lakes. The Breckenridge Golf Club has the distinction of being the only municipal golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus. The 27-hole regulation course takes golfers on a mountain excursion past crystal streams, beaver ponds, native grasses, sagebrush and natural wetlands. There are many more outstanding golf courses in Beaver Creek and Copper Mountain, as well as throughout the Central Rockies. When you’re done with adventuring, come back to town and reenergize with a gourmet meal, then switch gears for a little nightlife. It used to be, coming to the mountains meant leaving the city life behind. Now, we like to think we have the best of both worlds. So, if you have to tell your friends about it, go ahead, and bring them with you next time to do everything you didn’t get around to on this trip. But please, keep our Colorado summer secret among friends. As for everyone else, just tell them you went to Idaho. David M. Frey is a freelance writer in Carbondale, Colorado. His work has appeared in various newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune, the Los Angeles Times, the Denver Post and American Profile.

The Story Behind the Gold Mines
There was a time when Breckenridge was larger underground than above. More than 20 miles of tunnels and shafts wormed beneath the mountains of the Blue River valley, and hundreds of men walked into the earth to work there every day. The Colorado gold rush was on, and prospectors scoured the Rockies for mineral riches. In 1859 the first major gold strike was made in Idaho Springs, just over Loveland pass from Breckenridge. By the late 1860s, a few dozen men had settled on the rolling shores of the Blue River to pan for gold, known scientifically as Aurum, which is Latin for “shining dawn.” Since gold — relatively common and existing in 40 of the 50 states — is about six times heavier than the minerals surrounding it, it’s easy to separate by a sifting process like panning. But to really strike it rich, you have to find a solid deposit, or vein of gold inside the earth. Prospectors found just that on top of a hill two miles from today’s downtown Breckenridge, and so a claim was made on the Lazy Boy Mine in 1887. I visited the Lazy Boy mine early on a stormy summer morning 114 years later. The road wound between iron-rich tailing mounds as I approached the still-standing rustic wooden buildings, towers and conveyor belts that housed the mine operations. Real mining hasn’t taken place here since workers spontaneously walked off the site on strike in 1948, but the mine was re-opened 50 years later as an educational tour. Our group met at the mine entrance, a doorway-sized hole in the hillside supported by larger beams, or tinders. A narrow rail track wound through that same doorway, and we followed it to the dry room, where, like the mineworkers of old, we dressed for the constant 45-degree underground temperatures and dirty conditions, donned hard-hats for safety and registered our entrance. To do this, we each took a small brass tag with a number, worn soft by the many hands that held them over the last century. Back then, this was how mine operators kept track of how many miners were underground. Today, it not only helps give you a feel for the miners’ experience, but also tracks how many tourists are underground. There was no body search for us, but miners were asked to empty their pockets on every passing. For obvious reasons theft was rampant, and creative workers found ways to sneak small particles of gold out regardless of security. Some laced their hair with gold dust; others swallowed small nuggets scraped from the dirt. One legendary thief reportedly snuck out several ounces of gold inside his artificial eye, stealing 30 times his daily wage. The desperation of laborers was no wonder to me after I got a first-hand sense of the conditions they worked in. The main mine shaft is five feet wide and four to seven feet tall, with sharp fragments of rock protruding menacingly into the walkway, and cold water seeping persistently from the ceiling. Slippery wooden planks line the floor for tours, but miners waded through six inches of muck and dirt, and in some places, 15 inches of water that had collected on the floor. Today fresh air is pumped in and electric lights periodically illuminate the dark passageways, but miners never enjoyed these conveniences. Instead, they carried a candle in hand, purchased from their wages, as their only source of light. The air was thick with dust and debris, and the risk of poison from natural gases released from the earth was substantial. A canary, more sensitive to deadly gases, would fly into the mine with the workers. If the canary died, miners knew the air quality was poor and would have to evacuate. This was their only warning. The work itself was extremely arduous. Just consider how the miners burrowed into the solid bedrock. Men manually used a five-pound hammer and a forged metal spike to bore holes in the rock for the insertion of explosives. It typically took one “singlejacker” two and a half hours to bore a single 18-inch hole, striking the rock with a full swing once every five seconds. About 25 holes needed to be hammered before a blast could be orchestrated. They then packed the holes with dynamite and detonated the explosives, a process that gained just 10 forward inches. In this way men tunneled for miles into the igneous subsurface of the Rocky Mountains, and not without risk.
Drillers, who were paid $1-3 a day, faced dangers from falling rocks, mining dust, water and flooding, blast injuries and machine injuries from the hammering. No accurate records about injury and death were kept at the Lazy Boy mine, but tour operators say incidences of silicosis, the black rock mine version of black lung disease, was common. Diagnosis meant you’d be dead in three to five years. Still, miners ran this risk for the possibility of great wealth. Records of the bounty reaped at Lazy Boy were not kept either, but the neighboring Wellington mine recorded extraction of more than 737,000 tons of ore consisting of 8,000 ounces of gold, 750,000 ounces of silver, 41 million pounds of lead and 164 million pounds of zinc. The estimated value of that ore is $77 million, and along with other mines in the area, more than $150 million in minerals were mined locally. The mine tours offer not only an adventurous glimpse of a historical industry and an exciting journey beneath the ground, but also an education about the massive scale of mining in the Rockies and its effects on our environment today. In the French Gulch drainage, once a beautifully forested valley stretching from the high peaks of the Continental Divide to the town of Breckenridge, water seepage through old mine shafts has polluted the rivers and fish stock. In nearby Eagle, complete clean up of the mine and water supply cost an estimated $70 million. That’s as much as the Wellington mine earned in its 87 years of operation and enough to make you wonder whether the profits reaped in the past outweigh the costs of reclamation now. Nonetheless, mining remains a monumental aspect of Colorado’s history, and the history of westward expansion. Boning up on this lore and seeing the inner workings of a mine operation firsthand is a fantastic way to gain perspective on the livelihood past of towns like Breckenridge, Aspen, and Leadville — all communities founded on the quest for mineral wealth. Abrahm Lustgarten is an award-winning freelance photojournalist and author based in San Francisco, CA. His work documenting sports, travel and culture has appeared in various publications, including Newsweek, Men's Journal, and Outside.

Aspen/Snowmass The Grande Dame
Aspen has enjoyed fame and glory for well over 100 years. When its hills were laden with silver, the town became the largest silver-producing district in the country. A quick 1890s inventory found 12,000 people, four schools, six newspapers, three banks, a hospital and a flourishing red light district. Then, as fast as fortunes were made, they were lost, when silver prices plummeted. Aspen limped along as a ranching community until the mid-1930s. Swiss ski racer Andre Roch was commissioned to survey the mountain for possible development as a ski area. Aspenites built a 10-passenger "boat" tow powered by a mine hoist (10 cents a ride) and cut Aspen's first trail — the now famous Roch Run. As early as 1941, Aspen's first national downhill and slalom championships were held. Friedl Pfeifer, an Austrian ski instructor on furlough from World War II 10th Mountain Division training, skied Aspen, and vowed to return to develop it into a world-class ski resort. He and Walter Paepcke collaborated on Aspen's first chairlift, opening in 1946, together with Pfeifer's ski school. Fast forward to 2002. Aspen is the quintessential winter (and summer) resort, attracting the rich and famous to the town's extraordinary boutiques, galleries, restaurants, historic hotels and luxurious mountain amenities. Aspen also attracts serious skiers looking to log thousands of vertical feet on the big mountain's legendary, steep runs. Enter Snowmass, Buttermilk and Aspen Highlands, offering sweet alternatives for those not quite ready for prime time Aspen (although Highlands is known also for its epic steep stuff). Down-valley a bit is Snowmass, with its sequestered village, and a mountain that is a cruiser's delight. Its terrain feels like inbounds backcountry, and boasts the longest lift-served vertical rise in the United States — 4,406 feet. Aspen Highlands, between Aspen and Snowmass, recently unveiled its new ski-in/ski-out village. With its restaurants, shops and residential neighborhoods, it offers the chance to live along the slopes famous for their untamed character, colorful past and maverick image.. Aspen's Silver Queen gondola takes you two-and-a-half miles to the summit of Ajax Mountain in 18 minutes (a far cry from its single-seater chairlift in the 1940s). You can spend the day going up and down the mountain on skis, and now, on snowboards — a total departure for Aspen, one of Colorado's last hold-outs for a skiers-only mountain. For a radical experience, climb aboard a snowcat to ski the untouched powder in Aspen's backyard. But, there's more. You don't have to be an alpine skier or snowboarder to enjoy any of the mountains here. Snowshoe tours are offered at both resorts in conjunction with the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, and conducted by naturalist guides. Aspen's tour starts at the top of the mountain (following your gondola ride), and is an easy walk along 11,000-foot Richmond Ridge on the backside of Ajax (Ajax and Aspen Mountain are synonymous). Tours at Snowmass follow a secluded, off-trail loop through the woods at Two Creeks. Along the way, mountain ecology, flora and fauna are explored and explained Cross-country skiers, those into classic and skating disciplines, will find 65 kilometers of trails at Aspen/Snowmass — the largest groomed Nordic trail system in North America. Families love the fenced sledding hill at Snowmass, as well as the dog sled rides there. Twelve eager huskies (some Iditarod veterans) pull two-person, handcrafted wood sleds across snowfields, over rivers and ski trails, and to four-course wild game lunches at Krabloonik, a 100-year-old log cabin restaurant. What would a winter resort be without horse-drawn sleigh rides? Draft horses laden with sleigh bells take you through stunning alpine valleys. For a true adventure, try paragliding above the slopes of Aspen. USHGA-certified tandem pilots take you off Walsh's or Ruthie's Run for the most exciting 15 minutes of your life. Like life a bit more tame? Hot air balloon rides give you the thrill of a bird's eye view without the adrenaline rush of paragliding. Snowmobile tours take you into the nooks and crannies of the Aspen valley backcountry. Guides know their way; you just enjoy driving a machine of your own. You can also practice your ice-skating on indoor or outdoor rinks; of course, rental skates are available. To pamper yourself, Aspen-style, indulge in the luxurious massages and beauty treatments at the acclaimed Aspen Club, Snowmass Club, and tranquil Aspen Meadows Health Club. Down valley, in Glenwood Springs, dip into the world's largest outdoor hot springs pool; float under the stars in 90-degree water, surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
When your legs turn to noodles, and it's time to exercise your mind and spirit, the culture of Aspen takes center stage. The internationally renowned Aspen Music Festival, which delights summer visitors, also presents an Artist Recital Series, November through April, and a winter concert series. Prepare to be entranced. The Anderson Ranch Arts Center, formerly a turn-of-the-century cattle and sheep ranch, turned its historic barns into studios, set up a gallery and inaugurated an informal workshop program. Today, this year-round visual arts community holds public functions each week. What was originally the first hydroelectric plant west of the Mississippi is home to the 23-year-old Aspen Art Museum, and open to the public to showcase its rotating exhibits. For 20 years, Aspen Filmfest presented new American independent films, international films, premieres and tributes. Past screenings have included "Shakespeare in Love", "Life is Beautiful" and "Central Station". Christmas holiday screenings of this year's surprises are planned. The only professional ballet company based in the Colorado Rocky Mountains is the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet. A holiday performance of The Nutcracker and other winter programs are scheduled. Be sure to check out the schedule of dance, theatre, music and comedy slated to appear at the historic Wheeler Opera House. Past acts have included Lyle Lovett, "Stomp" and Jewel. Summer in Aspen/Snowmass The stunningly snow-covered mountains and valleys in winter unveil in summer to reveal tapestries of green, wildflowers, and in fall, golden aspens illuminating the hills. Hiking tours on Aspen Mountain follow the same routes as snowshoe tours in winter. Instead of snow-covered forests, you'll walk through meadows carpeted in flowers of every color. At Snowmass, ride the Burlingame lift to mid-mountain and enjoy a game of disc golf, hike the trails, or walk down the hill. For those more serious hikers, the fourteeners around Aspen oblige. Fish for famed rainbow trout on the Roaring Fork River. Get your fill of whitewater excitement in a raft or kayak on the nearby Colorado, Arkansas or Roaring Fork Rivers. Bike the roads in the valley and mountain bike in the hills. There are even downhill bike tours for every ability, beginner to expert. Golf courses in the Aspen/Snowmass valley have won more awards than you can shake a club at. In addition to the challenging layouts, the courses are encircled with drop-dead gorgeous views of Maroon Bells, Mt. Sopris and Mt. Daly. With golf drives traveling 10 to 15 percent farther than at sea level, you'll feel as though you can reach the mountain peaks. Tour the Compromise and Smuggler Mines to see where miners first discovered silver deep in the mountainsides. Then, allow the Aspen Historical Society to show you the ghost towns of Ashcroft and Independence, and get a feel of what life was like in very rustic log structures. As much as the Aspen Valley draws you out of doors, its cultural offerings bring you into its haven for the humanities. More than 100,000 summer visitors flock to The Aspen Music Festival in its 2,050-seat elaborate music tent. For nine weeks each summer, the festival presents 150 musical events and concerts. Afternoon rehearsals, where you can listen in on conversations between the conductor and the musicians, may be enjoyed for a fraction of evening concert prices. In addition to the plethora of cultural opportunities mentioned above — Anderson Ranch Arts Center, Aspen Art Museum, Wheeler Opera House, Aspen Filmfest and Aspen Ballet Company — the Aspen Writers' Foundation sponsors programs for readers and writers of all ages, and Theatre in the Park produces classical and new works, integrating local and national talent. Jazz Aspen at Snowmass is dedicated to the performance and preservation of jazz and American musicians. The June and Labor Day festivals attract the top names in jazz, as do the free concerts throughout the summer.

Summit County
The Heartbeat of Colorado By Lillian Ross Because of its geography, Summit County yielded riches from the get-go. In that rarefied air circling 13,000-foot peaks, miners raked gold and silver from the hillsides near old Keystone, Breckenridge, and what is now called Copper Mountain. One fellow carried his golden treasure in the crook of his arm, a 13-pound nugget he named Tom's Baby. Ore was transported by rail to the area's crossroads — Frisco — and then on to Denver. Populations mushroomed in the late 1800s, and the county became the heartbeat of Colorado. That was then. This is now. Riches are still found in the hills of Summit County, but the gold is white, snow white in winter. Skiers and snowboarders value it as much as miners did their mother lodes in the days of yore. The Kingdom of Breckenridge Back when Breckenridge was a most prolific mining community, an inept cartographer omitted the entire town from any and all official maps. It was a non-entity until the error was discovered and righted a half century later, in 1935. Each year thereafter, No Man's Land celebrations proclaimed the independent Kingdom of Breckenridge. Today, Breckenridge is one of the largest historic districts in Colorado, with more than 150 buildings listed in the National Register of Historic Places. A renaissance did not occur until the 1970s, when the mountains serving as the town's backdrop opened for skiing. Four mountains of the Tenmile Range, Peaks 7, 8, 9, and 10 — so numbered because of their mile distance from each other — now form the nucleus of the Breckenridge Ski Resort. Twenty-five high-tech lifts serve 139 trails and 772 acres of gentle to extremely challenging terrain. You'll find skiers and riders of all skill levels and every age enjoying the expansiveness of Breckenridge, and world-class athletes competing in events such as the Snowboard Grand Prix in January. The season's highlight is the annual International Snow Sculpture Competition. Teams from around the globe carve 10-foot-high monoliths of snow into exquisite, creative forms. The event takes place every January. To get a feel for history, you can take a tour of the Country Boy Mine. Walk 150 feet into the side of a mountain and learn how miners found and extracted gold from inside the earth. Then, take a guided walking tour through historic Breckenridge to learn the rest of the story. Ice skate outdoors on historic Maggie Pond, or indoors at the new Breckenridge Ice Rink. Mush your own dog sled over the river and through the woods or drive a snowmobile on a guided tour into the high country. Take in a live performance at the award-winning Backstage Theater or a first run film at the town's Speakeasy Theater. You can even workout at the state-of-the-art Breckenridge Recreation Center. Then, face a dining decision dilemma with more than 80 restaurants tempting your palate. Choose cuisine from every corner of the globe — French, Indian, Southern Italian, Northern Italian, Native American, Mexican, and good old American — proving how cosmopolitan this mining town has become. Twice as many gift and clothing shops, art galleries and antique stores line Main Street, and the 72 factory outlet stores are a 10-minute bus ride away. Read more about Copper Mountain Resort and Keystone Resorts in the Lodging Section. Summer at The Summit It's true! The hills ARE alive with the sound of music. Summer and music go hand-in-hand. From casual performances in Copper Mountain's or Keystone's plazas, to jazz headliners on the floating stage of Breckenridge's Maggie Pond, and classical evenings at the Breckenridge Music Festival with the 90-piece National Repertory Orchestra, sweet sounds of summer are everywhere. At 9,500 feet, days are mild, nights are cool, and summer is a gift of incredibly blue skies and meadows of wildflowers. Sailboats and canoes fill Lake Dillon with its 25-mile shoreline. Paddleboaters and kayakers navigate the small lakes at all Summit County resorts. Fishermen cast their lines into waters filled with rainbow trout and kokanee salmon. Rafters looking for whitewater, roller coaster waves find them on the Blue and Arkansas Rivers. Milder float trips ride the upper Colorado River. You're beginning to get the picture of summer at the Summit — non-stop activities in postcard-perfect weather, against a backdrop of snow-covered peaks. Anyone who came to spend the winter, and stayed through just one summer, became hooked, and became a resident of the Summit.
Championship golf is offered at Breckenridge (Jack Nicklaus design), Copper Mountain (Pete and Perry Dye), Keystone's two courses (one by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.), and Silverthorne's Raven Golf Club. At this elevation, golf balls travel 15% farther than at sea level. Drives are ego building; short games are challenging. Four-wheel tours take you above timberline to the Continental Divide. Or, you can bike the high country — each resort lets you take a rental or your own bike on chairlifts and gondola, and then ride down special bike trails. A paved bike path circles Summit County, allowing you to ride from Keystone, around Lake Dillon to Breckenridge, and up Tenmile Canyon to Copper Mountain. If you still want some downhill thrills, ride a special sled (with brakes) on the dual tracks of Breckenridge's Alpine Slide. One lane is for slow riders; the other, for those who want to go all out down the hill. A chairlift brings you and your sled to the top of the tracks. The West wouldn't be the West without horseback rides. You have your choice of trail rides into the woods and the hills. Wagon rides take you to dinners in the woods, and at barn dances, you can let your hair down. Take along a llama on a lunch hike; you walk, these gentle beasts carry the goodies. Or hike on your own throughout miles of trails in the Summit. Each resort runs its chairlift for drop-dead gorgeous scenic rides on the mountain. At Keystone, the gondola brings you to the summit of Keystone Mountain, and then to North Peak to dine at the Summit House and the Alpenglow Stube. As a summer bonus, most restaurants offer the warm pleasure of patio dining. You’ll also enjoy a wide variety of outlet stores and local shops that carry everything from antiques to southwestern art. With so much to offer, the Summit doesn't miss a beat year-round.

The World Cup Competitions
Chills and Thrills By David M. Frey Photos by Rex Keep and Tomas Zuccareno/ Vail Valley Foundation vvf.org It only makes sense that the nation’s top winter resorts should host the top events of the skiing and snowboarding world. The World Cup — a series of elite competitions in alpine and cross-country skiing, ski jumping and snowboarding — takes competitors on a global tour of such countries as Germany and Austria, Finland and Sweden, countries where ski racing is followed with a passion. Aspen and Beaver Creek join Park City, Utah, home to the U.S. ski and snowboard teams, as the only resorts in the country to host World Cup alpine events. They’re towns where locals are passionate about skiing and snowboarding, and where World Cup races have become an annual tradition. To be among the 16 sites picked by the International Skiing Federation, and to be picked year after year, is an honor, says Ceil Folz, president of the Vail Valley Foundation that hosts the event. “It’s great to have the world’s best of anything,” Folz says. “When you’re a ski town, to have the world’s best ski racers, you can’t get any better than that.” Colorado resorts are hosting several other International Skiing Federation events this year as well, from freestyle skiing to ski jumping to snowboarding competitions. It’s a rare chance to get a glimpse of the members of the U.S. ski and snowboard teams, including many of the nation’s medal winners at last year’s Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City. The excitement builds when the stars on the slopes are also hometown heroes. Coloradans make up 10 of the U.S. Ski Team’s 35 members. Among them are 10-season veteran and two-time Olympian Chad Fleischer, Sarah Schleper and Lindsey Kildow, of Vail; Jake Zamansky and Katie Monahan, of Aspen; Alison Powers, Wade Bishop and Brett Fischer, of Winter Park; Jake Fiala, of Frisco, and Caroline Lalive, of Steamboat Springs. Annette Royle, vice president of events for the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association, calls Colorado’s pair of World Cup events “outstanding races.” “The women look forward to racing again in Aspen,” Royle says, “and the men will make their last appearance in North America this season on the Birds of Prey run at Beaver Creek.” The events are a thrill on the slopes, where spectators can line the course to see close up the death-defying speeds ski racers reach as they plunge down the slope. At the foot of the hill, racing fans fill stands, ringing cowbells and cheering as their heroes zoom into view, from the giant-screen TV above to real life below. “You’ll just hear them go ‘pfeeeew,’” says Juliann Fritz, spokeswoman for the U.S. Ski Team, giving her best impression of a whizzing pair of skis. “You just hear their skis chattering, and you get up real close and see their legs shaking under the pressure. Lots of sound and noise. Pretty much every seat is a good seat.” Off the slopes is a thrill, too, with music and parties to keep the spirit up between races. But even in these ski towns, where skiing and snowboarding rank somewhere between sport and religion, the biggest names in their fields can still come schussing down the slopes to plenty of blank stares. Last year, as Croatia’s Ivica Kostelic cruised to win the World Cup men’s slalom on Aspen Mountain, the packed grandstand knew it was a momentous moment. Kostelic was ranked 64th to start the race, then posted the day’s fastest time. They just didn’t necessarily know who Kostelic was, or exactly where they’d find Croatia on the map. At one recent World Cup ski race, a pair of German tourists took a 100-mile detour to see their nation’s star women’s skier, Martina Ertl, speed down the hill in the super G. It was a sort of national duty, they figured. “There’s not a lot of German people here,” said Frank Lewandowski, “so we decided that she needed some fans.” Lewandowski knew what many Americans have yet to learn — World Cup racing is among the most fun spectator events around. It’s fast, fun and furious, unlike, say, curling. And also unlike curling, it’s not too hard to figure out. Before most Coloradans have put away their mountain bikes for the season, World Cup skiing gets under way in Soelden, Austria on Oct. 26. The series comes stateside on Nov. 21 in America’s Opening, in Park City. A month later, the World Cup calls Aspen home. On Nov. 29-30, the women come to Aspen for super G and slalom races for the Chevy Truck Aspen Winternational, while the men race in Lake Louise, Canada. After the World Cup events, the women keep racing in town in the Chevy Truck Super Series on Dec. 1-2. “There’s no better way to kick of the ski season,” says Bill Tomcich, president of StayAspenSnowmass. “It’s a great time of year when the entire town gets together in every little nook and cranny to line up and watch the race course, ring the cowbells and cheer in the racers.” It’s also a great time to visit Aspen, Tomcich says. At a time when stores and restaurants are ready for winter but most visitors aren’t, guests can feel like they have the town to themselves, for a fraction of peak season prices. “It would not be an exaggeration to say that you could get a lift ticket and a room for the price that a room alone would cost any other time of the year,” he says. The next week, on Dec. 7-8, the men come to Beaver Creek for the Chevy Truck Birds of Prey competitions in downhill and super G, while the women are in Lake Louise. The race pits the men against one another on one of the most challenging downhill courses in the world. The men stick around Dec. 9-10 for super G and giant slalom races in the Chevy Truck Super Series. “When you look at the list of who hosts World Cup, they tend to be the world’s best ski areas,” Folz says. “Being a part of that always helps Beaver Creek to be in the position it deserves — being one of the best in the world.”
It’s great for the town in other ways, too, Folz says. “It really pulls everyone together,” she says. Locals, second-home owners and visitors alike come together to cheer on the racers. Aspen and the Vail Valley have special connections to the World Cup. Aspen resident Bob Beattie was one of the architects of the race circuit, and continues to host it for television audiences. And before there ever was a World Cup, Pete Seibert, one of the creators of the Vail Resorts, brought together ski teams from around the world in 1965 for the World Series of Skiing, an event that became a prototype for the World Cup circuit to follow. Siebert died last July at 77, but his vision of international ski competitions lives on. The World Cup of a different kind comes to Steamboat Springs on Feb. 8-9. That’s when the Sprint U.S. Freestyle Grand National World Cup competition comes to town. This isn’t just skiing out of the gates; it’s skiing out of the box. Men and women compete down grueling mogul runs and bend, twist and turn in stunning aerial acrobatics in some of the most jaw-dropping spectacles in skiing you’ll ever see. Skiing is a beloved sports in this old cowboy town, which calls itself Ski City, USA. It’s sent more competitors to the Olympics than any other town in the country. The town’s specialty is ski jumping, an activity youngsters still practice on the city-run ski hill named for Carl Howelsen, a Norwegian who came to town in 1913. That makes Steamboat the perfect venue for the Chevy Truck U.S. Jumping/Nordic Combined Championships on Feb. 12-13. Visitors can also catch the U.S. Ski Team in Loveland for the Nature Valley Alpine Cup, part of the Super Series, Nov. 13-17. Men will compete in the slalom, women in the giant slalom. On Nov. 17-18, the women’s action continues in the slalom at the Chevy Truck Super Series at Winter Park. The Super Series brings the women back to Aspen again from Feb. 5-11 for the super G and slalom. For snowboarding fans, the Chevy Trucks U.S. Snowboard Grand Prix comes to Breckenridge on Jan. 9-12. In its seventh year, the Grand Prix is the premier domestic snowboard competition series, with a cash prize of over $300,000 and a key in Olympic selections. The event is one of snowboarders’ favorites, Fritz says. “They kept doing them bigger and better,” she says, “and the riders keep coming back.” The Chevy Trucks U.S. Snowboard Finals come home to Aspen/Snowmass from April 3-6, where spectators can also see competitions in snowboard cross and slalom. You don’t have to be a local to cheer them on, and you don’t have to know a slalom from a giant slalom to enjoy watching racers at the top of their game get to the bottom of the hill. Just grab a cowbell and a cup of hot chocolate, and enjoy.

Adventure Cycling in the High Country
By Jane Stebbins In the Colorado Rockies, biking reigns supreme. Be it road, mountain or recumbent bike — or even the old single-speed Schwinn buried under a lifetime’s worth of stuff in the garage — the sport offers something for everyone. Tens of millions of Americans ride bikes on a regular basis. And when they arrive in Colorado, the urge to hit the road, the path or the trail is, for many, too much to pass up. They’ve come to the right place. “It’s the diversity,” said Chris Hart, co-owner of Great Adventure Sports in Breckenridge. “If you’re a road biker, you can ride in some really neat places, and there are off-road opportunities for cyclists of all abilities. In many areas, there are miles of paved bike paths, and almost all the resorts now offer lift-served trails for the downhillers. There are all sorts of ways the whole family can enjoy biking in the mountains.” Summit County alone offers more than 55 miles of paved bikeways that meander along the Blue River north to Lake Dillon, through the woods to Frisco and branch from there through the lodgepole pine forest — in the early summer, be sure to check out the osprey nesting on Sentinel Island — along the lake or up (and up) along the edge of Tenmile Creek to the summit of Vail Pass. From Frisco, cyclists can cross the Dillon Dam to the town of Dillon, and take off around the lake towards Keystone Ski Resort. The next stretch of bike path there will be over Swan Mountain Road, from Farmer’s Korner to Sapphire Point to Keystone, completing a full circle around the 26-mile lake. Just west of Summit County is Eagle County, where there is an equally wide array of bicycling opportunities. Summit County’s bike path merges at the summit of Vail Pass with another path that winds down to the ski town of Vail. An increasingly popular and incredibly scenic bike path wends its way through Glenwood Canyon, where bicyclists are surrounded by sheer, towering walls. The Colorado River carved its way through here eons ago, leaving in its wake a narrow valley. The 17-mile path between Dotsero and Glenwood Springs not only features breathtaking views of the geology, but also serves as a great jumping-off point for other trails. The most popular of these is Hanging Lake, a vigorous 1.5-mile hike to a crystal-clear lake whose waters are supplied by a melted snowfall cascading over the rock walls above. Parents with children in tow will enjoy the path for its relative ease — and the four rest areas along the way. Coal and passenger trains that groan slowly through the valley are another source of awe for the younger set. The High Country pathways are most often used by road bikers on mountain bikes (hey, you never know when you might want to get a little crazy). Others are seen on recumbent bikes that allow people to pedal feet first and low to the ground. Many cart their children behind them in enclosed trailers or trail-a-bike. On occasion, a bicycle built for two is seen cruising down the path. Yeee-haw! Others choose trails far less traveled. Popular trails throughout the Rocky Mountains were, in many cases, originally flumes, through which water was supplied to mining camps to help separate worthless rock from gold ore. They now provide an easy avenue by which bicyclists can access historic sites. Some locales offer superb wildlife viewing, including the Three Forks Trail near Rifle. The trail follows the creek, crossing beaver ponds at numerous intervals. Spruce and aspen line the trail, which eventually leads to views of the East Rifle Creek drainage. Closer to Vail, the Deep Lake/Heart Lake road leads riders through wildflower meadows as it follows the shores of the lakes. The Ute Indians camped at Deep Lake in the early 1880s. President Teddy Roosevelt followed 100 years later, as did pioneers who relaxed at a hotel in the area in the late 1800s. In Minturn, south of Vail, is a difficult trail meandering from Camp Hale to Kokomo Pass. The 10th Mountain Division — soldiers on skis — trained here for winter warfare in Italy during World War II. The trail generally travels east from the camp to Kokomo Pass at elevations exceeding 12,000 feet. Extreme Then there are cyclists who like the extreme. They’re not looking for quality time with their families. They eschew the smooth pavement of bike paths. Their goal isn’t to admire scenery or take in the crisp mountain air — unless it’s in lung-ripping gulps. They want steep — and steeper. The rockier, the better. The mountains in these parts were named the Rockies for a reason, and the challenge awaits those looking for a rock-hopping adventure through the woods. Firebox Park Loop, near Eagle, starts with a 4.5-mile climb — with only one downhill slope. It travels through aspen groves and lodgepole pine forests through which inspiring views can be glimpsed along the way. Once the uphill portion is done, the terrain changes. Soft soil alternates with intermittent streams, bush and hills — the last of which is a 34 percent grade on a loose road base. A difficult trail in the Aspen area is the 5.5-mile Express Creek Road to Taylor Pass. From here, spectacular views of Taylor Lake, Castle Creek Valley and surrounding peaks keep bikers’ minds off the task at hand, grinding 2,506 feet to an elevation of 11,928 feet. Among the most popular trails is the one to Crystal, an old mining town near Aspen. The Dead Horse Mill, a historical landmark, hangs precipitously over the Crystal River. The mill, one of the most photographed sites in the state, is on private property, but visible from public trails. The trail is narrow, steep and rocky, but well worth the effort. The locals often take to the road for exercise or a way of getting away from the bustle of town. Visitors to the High Country long ago learned that biking is a great way to see the sights in the cool, thin air. Oh, about that air: You are, as the locals say, “at altitude.” If the views don’t, the thin air will take your breath away. But the sights — lakes, wildlife, historic mining sites, glacier-carved canyons, expansive wildflower-dotted meadows — are usually enough to get your mind off the elevations, which range from the low valleys at 5,700 feet to the snow-capped peaks that exceed 14,000 feet.
Racing While many opt for single-track, others head for the ultimate in competition. Races, many of which are open to the public, include Montezuma’s Revenge, said to be the world’s most extreme 24-hour race. The course takes riders over 12,000-foot above-timberline mountain peaks, past abandoned mining camps, along creeks and a glacier ridge on the Continental Divide. There’s Hell in the High Country, a NORBA-sanctioned off-road race in Summit County, the 100-mile and 100-kilometer Ultra 100 Mountain Bike races in Vail and an all-dirt Ultra race in Glenwood Springs in which racers gain 7,000 feet elevation in 50 miles. Additionally, there is the Fat Tire Poker Ride in Breckenridge that awards riders for their fastest times and best poker hands, NORBA-sanctioned races through the backcountry, multi-sport races that include swimming and running, and professional competition like the Saturn Cycling Classic, said to be the most challenging bike race in the state. The Classic is a 140-mile race from Boulder to Breckenridge in which cyclists gain — and lose — thousands of feet in elevation over seven mountain passes, including one near Idaho Springs called Oh My God Road. Flat tires and broken spokes don’t get these athletes down. If a bike has a problem, the cyclist drops back and hugs alongside their race van, while another bike is passed through the doors. Snow, rain, high wind and intense high-altitude sunlight… These elite racers see it all. Help When You Need It Throughout the High Country, there are cycling clubs, some of which host sunset rides — this is a great way for visitors to catch a glimpse of an area from a locals’ perspective — and others that help rebuild eroded trails. Those looking to improve their own skills need look no further than most mountain bike shops. Clinics vary widely, ranging from women’s’ classes to basic bike maintenance and advance rock-hopping courses taught by local racing professionals. Local bike shop personnel know the sport and eagerly dispense advice or get a disabled bike back on the road again. Most shops also sell maps and guide books to help people get to the trails. Jane Stebbins is a reporter for the Summit Daily News in the High Country of Colorado, where she bikes, rows, skis and hikes. She lives in Breckenridge with her husband, John, and daughter, Erin.

Vail / Beaver Creek
By Lillian Ross The Sheep Pasture That Became a World Famous Icon Picture, if you will, a verdant mountain valley, sheep grazing lazily, and occasional homesteads here and there. That picture was the Vail Valley 45 years ago. Peter Seibert, with more dreams in his heart than dollars in his pocket, made good his vow to return to Colorado after World War II, and put a then unnamed ski resort where Vail is now. When Seibert trained with the 10th Mountain Division over the hill from Vail at Camp Hale, he knew the area's now famous back bowls would offer some of the most outstanding powder skiing on the planet. Having secured investors in the late 1950s, the New England native started making his dreams come true. Who would have thought that when he took his magic marker and drew lift lines up one side and down the other on a map of Vail Mountain, that all of those lifts would become a reality? Vail, one of North America's most prestigious winter vacation destinations, is the triumph of a dream. In July 2002, the Village and the world mourned the passing of Peter Seibert. The Vail pioneer was 77. The largest single mountain ski area in North America, Vail's heart beats to the rhythm of the mountain. It features 5,289 skiable acres, over 3,300 of those acres in the resort's world famous open bowls and Blue Sky Basin. Whether you're a beginner or looking for the ultimate challenge, Vail obliges. If you're searching for different disciplines on the snow, Vail's Cross Country and Snowshoe Adventure Center lets you workout from the foot of Golden Peak. Then there's Adventure Ridge, Vail's headquarters for non-skiing, on-snow fun for the kid in all of us. The venue is located at the top of the gondola at Eagle's Nest, and the fun begins at sunset. Try ski biking or thrill sledding head first on a sled (with brakes) to the bottom of the mountain (riders must be at least 14 years old). Headlamps are provided for both sports. Tubing on a lift-served, multi-lane hill (mild and tame, to steep and fast) takes you back to your youth. Snowmobile tours takes adult passengers from peak to peak, while mini-snowmobiles let kids 6-12 ride a machine on a track of their own. Choose your fun on the ridge with snow skates, ice skates and snowshoe rentals. There's also a full-sized ice rink in town for serious skaters You won't have to miss first-run movies while you're here, as two state-of-the-art theaters are available for your entertainment. How did winter sports’ enthusiasts survive before spas? We have no idea. Visit the many spas of Vail for relaxing mud wraps, aromatic baths and facials that will make you feel like a new person. You may also want to take advantage of the fitness and workout equipment and classes. World-class facilities are found at the Aria Spa & Club at the Vail Cascade Resort, the Spa at Vail Mountain Lodge, and the Spa at the Sonnenalp Resort. Shopping in Vail is unparalleled. More than 145 shops, boutiques and art galleries — many of which offer one-of-a-kind treasures — leave you spellbound. Fashions of impeccable taste can be found at Pepi's and Gorsuch, while Slifer Designs offers the last word in exquisite home accessories. Dining in Vail uses up all of Mr. Webster's adjectives. The mountain's flagship restaurant, Two Elk, serves Southwest delicacies by day. Game Creek, offering the epitome of Colorado regional cuisine, is tucked away in a forested glen in Game Creek Bowl. A gondola and sleigh ride brings you to this hideaway. In town, The Wildflower, voted #1 in Vail in the 2000 Zagat Survey, is the only Mobil four-star restaurant in Vail. So many more, so little space. Lord Gore, a staple in Vail since 1967, serves outstanding Continental and American favorites. Try Larkspur, a self-proclaimed American Brasserie for all seasons. At La Tour, you’ll savor the finest Nouvelle French cuisine. Chaps Grill & Chophouse serves generous portions of steaks and home-style dishes. If you simply crave a slice of pizza, head to Vendetta's. Beaver Creek Following in Vail's footsteps, yet with an identity of its own and a level of luxury unmatched in Colorado, is Beaver Creek. The ambiance at Beaver Creek and neighboring Bachelor Gulch is elegant and pampering. Since the resort is built on a hillside, Beaver Creek offers the ultimate in slope side convenience. Heated and covered escalators bring you and all your gear up the three levels of the village directly to the entrance of the high-speed quad chairlift. Where else can you find such service? No more carrying skis or boards; you can save your legs for the mountain itself. . For the most part, Beaver Creek is an intermediate mountain, with lots of room for kids and beginners. This is the resort's most challenging area, often used in world-class races. The very popular village-to-village, on-mountain route between Beaver Creek, Bachelor Gulch and Arrowhead gives you a European-type experience of skiing from one village to another, enjoying the slopes and amenities of all three resorts. The slopes of Bachelor Gulch, nearly obstacle-free intermediate cruisers, practically scream "carve me." After a day of looking good on the hill, check into the new Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch, scheduled to open by the holidays. This ski-in/ski-out luxury hotel is modeled after the grand lodges of national parks with log exteriors and the flavor of Colorado inside, including a 21,000-square-foot spa and fitness center. Within the village of Beaver Creek, the plaza surfaces are heated; there's no slipping or sliding on the ice. The only ice surface you'll find is on the year-round Black Family Ice Rink, bustling each season with budding stars. A small, turn-of-the-century theater in Munich inspired the design of the Vilar Center for the Arts. The 518-seat theater has become one of Colorado's premier cultural and entertainment venues. The Vilar Center's slate of performances includes the musical Ain't Misbehavin, the political satire of The Capitol Steps, MacHomer: The Simpsons Do Mac Beth, and The Vagina Monologues. The innovative theater, with its horseshoe seating wrapped in Colorado pine, is creatively constructed beneath the resort's ice rink. Elegant pampering in the spas of Beaver Creek happens in heavenly fashion at Allegria at the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa. Men will love the Ashiatsu, a modernized version of the Japanese practice of "walking on backs." Allegria’s 20 treatment rooms let you enjoy exotic detoxifying wraps and water therapy. The resort has become a hotbed for high-end galleries and boutiques. There's even a boutique of handcrafted jewelry that features the resort's insignia at The Golden Beaver, an icon that has become a coveted memento at Beaver Creek. In a word, resort dining is sumptuous. World famous Beano's Cabin, high on the mountain, offers award-winning Colorado fare such as rack of lamb. In winter, a sleigh ride is your transport; in summer, get here in a hay wagon or on horseback. The Grouse Mountain Grill, in the Pines Lodge, overlooks this sparkling resort. Awards are numerous, rightly so, with cuisine features such as pretzel-crusted pork chops. Splendido, in the majestic Chateau, has a classic European feel with its Italian linens, French silver and German crystal, which are the setting for exceptional regional cuisine. Mirabelle, in a turn-of-the-century ranch house at the resort entrance, presents award-winning fare including elk and salmon dishes. Bring the family to the Blue Moose Pizzeria or Swiss Stubli, specializing in fondues and raclettes.
Summer in the Vail Valley Even before the last snowflake melts, a profusion of color blooms in Vail and Beaver Creek. Baskets, containers, gardens and hillsides filled with flowers feed the senses and nurture the soul. The most colorful corner of Vail is the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Here, more than 1,500 native and mountain species of plants are showcased. In July, lanes of magenta, lavender, peach, gold, and even black poppies are in full bloom, enveloping you in their massive size and fragile beauty. Complementing a valley filled with flowers are the critically acclaimed arts festivals, which summon the most extraordinary creativity from across the country. Both resorts are famous for their works of public art — bronze sculptures that capture the essence of life outdoors in the Colorado mountains. Vail's sculpture of young girls frolicking in a plaza fountain is widely photographed by visitors. Other Kodak moments occur at the Gerald Ford Amphitheater Vilar Pavilion in Vail. From Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival with its litany of classical concerts in July and August, the Vail Jazz Festival in late summer, to Hot Summer Nights featuring complimentary performances in the popular genre, the sounds of music emanate throughout the valley. The Vail International Dance Festival offers seasoned classics, contemporary masterpieces and world premieres, which are performed by the world's greatest dance artists. The mountains that mesmerize skiers in winter have a similar attraction in summer. Mountaintop trails can be hiked or biked. You can spend the day walking knee-deep in wildflowers. Chairlifts (and gondola) at the resorts bring you to heady heights. The lifts are retrofitted to accommodate mountain bikes. Horseback rides into the hills are glorious when the aspen leaves turn gold. Beaver Creek Stables offer rides that lace their way up the mountain. At Piney Lake, north of Vail, rides take you into the Eagles Nest Wilderness area, while Jeep tours take off in other directions. Golf balls can be driven farther in the thin mountain air, which might explain why the valley offers 15 courses. The real reason for lots of links: you can’t name a more spectacular setting for golf. If you'd rather have a bird's eye view of the golf courses, take a sunrise flight on a hot air balloon, and experience suspended animation as your balloon quietly drifts with the air currents 3,000 feet above the valley floor. Year-round, you'll find fly fishermen on the banks of streams and rivers, while down valley, rafters test the whitewater of the Eagle River. Guides take you on mild to wild adventures, based on your experience. Kids have their own vacations in the valley. Nature centers, day and overnight camps and children's theaters let youngsters have their fun while mom and dad escape for a diversion of their own. Summer festivals are commonplace. One of the most spectacular is the 4th of July fireworks display in Avon with state-of-the-art pyrotechnics that provide a dazzling light show.

Winter Wonderland
By David M. Frey Photos by J. Kevin Foltz There is a species of winter visitor — well, you’ll know them when you see them. They wear ski boots on the plane, keep their toque on for the flight and won’t let go of their ski poles, even when they go through the metal detectors. They pack everything in carry-ons so that the minute the plane hits the ground, they can be en route to the slopes for a couple top-to-bottoms before the lifts close. They’ll repeat the same routine starting at sunrise, and won’t quit until they can’t walk anymore. There is another species of traveler — you’ll know them, too. They’re at the shops in the morning, the bars at night, and their visit will end without them so much as glancing at the ski slopes. If the two ever meet, the truth about winter in the Colorado mountains might emerge. Skiing and snowboarding may be what draws most winter visitors to Colorado, but resort towns offer lots more than that. Here are some ways to make the most out of your vacation, on and off the slopes. Brush up the Schuss Coloradans like to think our state is a change of pace from the rest of the country, and a visit here should be as well. Coming here should be about fun and relaxation, of course, but if you’re here for the slopes, it ought to be about pushing your limits, too. No matter your ability level, this should be a chance to expand your potential. In skiing and snowboarding, the fun grows as your ability grows and you spend more time on your skis and less time on the ground. But don’t go it alone. Unpacking those boards and strapping them to your feet after a muscle-congealing summer is a good way to make bad habits so ingrained it would take a heavy dose of hypnosis to wipe them out of your head. Make the most of your visit and book a lesson. Remember, Colorado doesn’t just have some of the world’s best ski areas. It also has some of the best ski and snowboard coaches on staff at mountain resorts, and they’re there to help you improve. If you’re a beginner skier, a fast way to a bad vacation is setting out on your own. And the best way to ruin a good relationship is to — gulp — take lessons from your significant other. Many ripe love affairs have ended at the bottom of a pile of snow strewn with ski gear. If you’re an intermediate, lessons are a good way to get a taste of adventure beyond what you’ve ever experienced. If you’re an expert, well, even ski racers keep taking lessons. That could mean heading off into the legendary bowls at Vail or Aspen Highlands, where the steep and deep offers challenges for the greatest skiers. Or it could mean taking your boards off piste for some backcountry adventure. Ski schools offer guided ski tours beyond the ropes for silent schussing down secret stashes. Try Something New If you didn’t schlep your gear with you, try demoing something new when you rent — even something new every day. The technology of mountain fun is changing all the time, with new materials and new shapes literally changing the way people get down the hill. Another great way to liven up your trip is to try out a new sport altogether. Skiers once considered snowboarders the bottom-feeders of snow sports. Now, longtime skiers are finding snowboarding gives them the kind of adrenaline rush they haven’t felt in years. Lots of devoted skiers have found new life on one board. The same goes in reverse. One of the hottest trends in snow sports these days is one of the oldest. If you’ve ever watched the elegant deep-knee-bend dance of telemark skiers easing their way down the slopes, you’ve seen the rebirth of an old Norwegian technique in skiing. New technology has given it new life. Combining the free heel of cross-country skiing and the downhill exhilaration of alpine skiing, telemarking offers a back-to-your-roots touch, a graceful feel and a heck of a workout for your quads. For longtime skiers and boarders, it also offers a challenge they forgot skiing could offer. Just remember, though, none of this comes overnight. Give yourself a few lessons before you toss the new stuff aside for your old gear. Head Into the High Country Remember that snow exists beyond the ski area, too, and wonder awaits. Try a pair of cross-country skis or snowshoes to explore mountain trails and venture into the backcountry. Nordic centers abound for the flats. They offer groomed courses for a beautiful trek into the trees. For backcountry expeditions, try an area guide. They’ll provide the gear, some instruction and a guided adventure into the beauty of the Rockies you can only experience by surrounding yourself with snowclad aspens. Remember, avalanches are a real danger every winter, so don’t just go it alone. You can also strap on a pair of snowshoes and head uphill on the ski slopes for a workout that a treadmill just can’t match. But don’t feel like you have to do all the work yourself. In the snow, four legs can be better than two. Summer isn’t the only time for horseback rides. Some outfitters offer winter rides. And for a sense of nostalgia, there’s nothing better than, well, dashing through the snow in an open sleigh (more than one horse may be required). For a little taste of the Yukon, you’ll find nothing more exhilarating than zipping through the snow on a dogsled. In Snowmass, look for Krabloonik, where a breathtaking dogsled ride ends at an elegant, gourmet meal in the mountains. Or, head into the mountains the motorized way. Local outfitters lead groups deep into the high country through open meadows and dark timber into the stunning views above timberline. No prior experience is necessary, and snowmobiles offer families a great way to see sights they’ll never see from their hotel room window. You can also get off the beaten track by getting off the track altogether. Hot-air balloon rides give you the chance to soar over the valleys and get a view of the Rockies like no other. One of the newest winter sports is ice climbing. The same rocks that make for great adventure in the winter, when coated with veils of frozen waterfalls, make for an excitement going up that skiing and snowboarding offer coming down. Outfitters throughout the Colorado Rockies offer group and private instruction, and give you all the equipment you need for one of the hottest cold-weather sports around. Colorado’s rushing rivers offer winter enjoyment for anglers. Check in with local guides for flycasting lessons, or for advice on the best places to cast your line on your own. You can also check out high country reservoirs, including the massive Lake Dillon, for great ice fishing.
Mountain Culture Winter is when the mountains really heat up when it comes to nightlife and cultural activities. Bars jam all night with great music, whether you prefer jazz, reggae or rock ’n’ roll. But nightclubs aren’t the only place to find music. The Vilar Center for the Arts at Beaver Creek is a 530-seat theater that serves as one of the finest venues in the region for the best in music, theater and dance. This winter’s highlights offer everything from renegade country singer Steve Earle to Verdi’s La Traviata. In Aspen, stepping into the Wheeler Opera House is like stepping back in time. Built in 1889 at the height of Aspen’s silver boom, the opera house is just as central to Aspen’s vibrant cultural scene today as it was to silver miners. Winter events include visits by famed folksinger Greg Brown and the Grammy-nominated traditional mu-sic band The Boys of the Lough. The Aspen Music Festival presents exquisite classical performances at Harris Concert Hall this winter by the likes of the Emerson String Quartet and pianist Yefim Bronfman. Remember the museums on your visit, too. In Vail, the Colorado Ski Museum & Ski Hall of Fame offers a unique glimpse into the ski pioneers who paved the way for the sports we enjoy today. Aspen’s Wheeler/Stallard Museum, home of the historical society HeritageAspen, provides a glimpse into Aspen’s yesteryear, from its Silver Boom to today’s skiing boom. The Aspen Art Museum brings high-caliber exhibits to the mountains, the sort of works you’d expect to see in an urban museum showcased in a cozy gallery tucked away beyond Aspen’s beaten path. Festival Time Winter is the time for festivals in the mountains. Towns throughout the high country greet the holidays with old-fashioned festivals designed to get you in the mood for a white Christmas. The celebrations continue all winter as resort towns pay homage to the white stuff that defines winter in Colorado. Breckenridge celebrates the holidays as only a ski town can. Holipalooza offers a dose of Victorian charm, plus a helping of adrenaline in the Vans Triple Crown of Snowboarding, throughout December. For a bit of old-fashioned character, check out the Lighting of Breckenridge on Dec. 6. New Year’s Eve gets underway with a torchlight parade from the top of Peak 9 to the Village at Breckenridge, followed by fireworks. From Jan. 9 to Feb. 15, Breckenridge pays homage to the Norse god of winter with Ullr Fest. The town hosts the International Snow Sculpture Championships Jan. 27 to Feb. 1. Leap year takes on a whole new meaning with the SOS Outreach Series Superpipe and Slopestyle snowboard competitions Feb. 28-29. Vail lets loose with elite snowboarders competing for the sport’s largest single payout in The Session, Jan. 15-18. Skiers get crazy in the U.S. Freeskiing Open Jan. 27 to Feb. 1. On Wednesday evenings, Vail Village hosts the free Streetbeat concert series. In Aspen, Wintersköl, Aspen’s annual toast to all things winter, celebrates its 54th annual winter celebration, Jan. 15-18. Wintersköl is Aspen’s classic hometown event, a time when Glitter Gulch remembers its funky underbelly. The celebration features events downtown and at its four ski areas, including a World’s Fair, a torchlight descent down Aspen Mountain and fireworks overhead. ESPN brings its Winter X Games VIII back to Buttermilk, showcasing top talents in winter’s most extreme sports. Gay and Lesbian Ski Week returns for its annual Aspen party Jan. 25 to Feb. 1. Throughout the winter, Colorado’s resorts offer lots of opportunities on slope and off. For those of you who dread taking off those ski boots, it’s OK. Really. There’s more to the mountains than just the slopes. For those few who dread the thought of reaching high speeds on waxed boards over cold wet stuff, you might just find there’s a sport out there for you. For everyone else, the trick is finding a balance that lets you pack in as much as you can in one vacation. Remember, you can always come back. David M. Frey is a freelance writer in Carbondale, Colorado. His work has appeared in various newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Denver Post and American Profile.

Summer in the Rockies
By David M. Frey Call it the ultimate après ski party. Kick off your ski boots for the season and cozy up to a Colorado summer and you’ll see why so many born-again Coloradans share the same story. Winter is why they came; summer is why they stayed. Outdoor enthusiasts get dizzy from the options to wile away a summer’s day. Cast a line into the rivers, or cast off in a kayak? Set out on a hike, or on a bike? It used to be, winter was the time to vacation in Colorado. More and more, visitors find summers the best time to visit, and with so much to see and do, it’s easy to see why. Wet and Wild The most diehard snow slider may still be able to find secret snow stashes long after the lifts have closed down, but why fight nature? When sunshine turns snow into snowmelt, follow it to the rivers. One of the hottest ways to cool off in a Rocky Mountain summer is on a river. Whitewater abounds in Colorado’s high country, and it provides an exhilarating way to explore the mountains and canyons. Some of the state’s finest whitewater is on the Colorado River, where the legendary Shoshone Rapids promise to take your breath away as you plunge below the towering walls of Glenwood Canyon. In Aspen and Snowmass, the Roaring Fork River offers exciting twists and turns. In Summit County, take a plunge through the raging waters of Brown’s Canyon on the Arkansas River. Near Vail, Gore Canyon beckons with some of the most challenging rapids in the state. Local raft guides, who know the waters and want to share their love of adventure with visitors, are plentiful. For some, the biggest excitement on the water comes at the end of a line. Whether you’re standing on the edge or floating downstream, Colorado’s High Country offers some of the finest fly-fishing anywhere in the country. These are Gold Medal fishing waters, from the Colorado to the Roaring Fork to the Frying Pan. Experts will relish the chance to cast a line into the nooks and eddies and watch rainbow trout soar off the end of the line over a rushing mountain river. For newcomers, it’s a great place to learn. Check in at local fishing shops for guide companies eager to show you the art of the cast, take you to their favorite spots and let you know what the fish are biting. Colorado’s Rockies are also home to lots of high-mountain lakes and reservoirs great for fishing and floating. The gem is Lake Dillon Reservoir — 3,300 acres of shimmering waters between the towns of Dillon and Frisco. Cradled by the Gore, Williams Fork and Ten Mile mountain ranges, the lake is a great place to celebrate yet another sunny summer day. Full-service marinas at both Dillon and Frisco offer a range of ways to have fun in the water. Visitors will find sailboats and motorboats, Jet Skis and paddleboats, canoes and kayaks available for rent. Or, take part in a sailboat tour and leave the work to someone else. Onshore, visitors will find cozy cabins for rent, 313 campsites and plenty of hiking and biking trails, plus Jeep tours into the mountains to blossoming wildflowers and old ghost towns. Explore Your Surroundings In the winter, mountains are for schussing down. In the summer, they’re for climbing up. Hands down, there’s no better way to see a Rocky Mountain summer than on foot. Mountain views are always better after a good hike, and there’s no shortage of trails to choose from, whether you’re a beginner or a bona fide mountaineer. Check with the local Forest Service ranger station for recommendations and maps to get you where you want to go. Remember to come prepared, though. Mountain weather is fickle. Thunderstorms roll across bluebird skies without much notice. Skies once sunny and warm turn icy and gray. Even easy trails can twist an ankle or break a leg, and the thin mountain air may keep your hike in the mountains from being a walk in the park. And never leave the trailhead without plenty of water for the trip. Some of the great hiking and ski trails also make for great biking trails. For the ultimate workout, consider renting a mountain bike to explore your surroundings. Mountain bikes are a great way to add a little adrenaline to your mountain excursion. Or even your town excursion. Try exploring the off-the-beaten-track mountain towns on two wheels, peeking in at the shops, eateries and coffee stops as you go. Check in at the local bike shop for rentals, and for some local wisdom about favorite trails. They can also outfit you with all the gear you need to spin your way into mountain bliss. Some will even cut your workout in half by shuttling you to one end and letting you bike back on your own. Of course, there are lots of ways to explore the mountains. Check around for local outfitters who will take you into the high country on horseback. There’s no better way to get a feeling for the way the West was once than on the back of a horse, ambling through wildflower meadows and aspen glades. Outfitters like the 4 Eagle Ranch in Wolcott have an insider’s knowledge of the best places to head into the hills, and easygoing horses are ready to take a family to some of the best views of the mountains. Lots of companies also offer Jeep tours to let you set out for high passes and forgotten ghost towns behind the wheel. Of course, a great way to see the mountains is to look down on them. For an unforgettable visit, check out hot-air balloon rides to soar silently over the valleys.
In Full Swing One of the most popular pastimes in the mountains these days is golf, and there’s no shortage of greens to choose from, even if you’re not staying at a golf resort. Colorado’s high country abounds with top-notch courses designed by some of the sport’s most renowned architects. They offer exquisite mountain views, plenty of challenges and the privacy and feel of members-only clubs without the members-only dues. Play a round and see if balls really do fly 15 percent farther in the thin mountain air. The Vail Valley hosts some 15 golf courses, many of them public. The Vail Golf Club, designed by Ben Krueger, offers golfers stunning views of the Gore Range. The par-71 championship course has a pro shop, driving range, locker rooms, restaurant and snack shop. At the nearby town of Eagle, you’ll find the Arnold Palmer-designed Eagle Ranch Golf Course. The course winds through the stunning Brush Creek Valley, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Sawatch Range, with five sets of tees ranging from 5,400 to 7,500 yards providing challenges for all skill levels. Also nearby is the public Eagle-Vail Golf Course, with classic mountain golf and all of its challenges. The course includes the Willow Creek par-three nine-hole course, ideal for families and beginners. For resort play, guests at Vail Resorts lodges can take a swing at Beaver Creek’s Red Sky Golf Club, with a pair of courses designed by Tom Fazio and Greg Norman. The greens take golfers through both high desert country and lush aspen stands for unique Colorado golfing. In Edwards, guests of the Sonnenalp Golf Club, designed by Jay Morrish, can enjoy an 18-hole championship course, swimming pool, tennis courts, practice facilities and a teaching center. Public tee times are taken a day in advance at the Hale Irwin-designed Cordillera Mountain Course and the Dave Pelz-designed nine-hole short course. Just a few minutes from downtown Aspen, you’ll find the Aspen Golf Club. The Frank Hummel-designed course offers 7,215 yards of play, and is open seven days a week, with a full-service pro shop, lessons with PGA staff, a driving range, cart rental and restaurant. The Snowmass Club is unveiling a completely redesigned championship golf course. Designed by James Engh, the par-72 course includes a practice facility and clubhouse with a full-service restaurant and bar. A lovely drive down valley brings you to Carbondale, where you’ll find River Valley Ranch. Jay Morrish designed the challenging course along the Crystal River. Set amid a 520-acre residential community, River Valley Ranch is public but feels private, with stunning views of glorious Mt. Sopris looming in the distance. The Breckenridge Golf Club has the distinction of being the only 27-hole regulation municipal golf course designed by Jack Nicklaus. The championship 18 holes and added Elk nine take golfers on a mountain excursion past crystal streams, beaver ponds, native grasses, sagebrush and natural wetlands. In Silverthorne, The Raven Golf Club at Three Peaks is a spectacular semi-private club with panoramic views of the Gore Range everywhere you look. Native grasses line the bunkers, and Colorado pines and aspens wind through a course marked with sparkling creeks and lakes. Golf Magazine and Golf Digest have rated Keystone one of the top golf resorts in the country. Keystone Ranch Golf Course offers a rugged terrain patterned by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. after Scotland’s famous links courses. The River Course at Keystone is a par-71 Hurdzan-Fry course that winds along the Snake River and offers spectacular views of the Gore Range. (Prepare for the 200-foot drop on the 16th hole.) After being closed last season, Keystone reopens this year, starting with the River Course in mid-May, followed soon after by Keystone Ranch. At 9,700 feet, Copper Creek Golf Club at Copper Mountain is the nation’s highest championship golf course. The low-key course is also one of Summit County residents’ favorites, and with stunning views of the Ten Mile Range, the Pete and Perry Dye-designed course is one of its most spectacular, too. Festival Time If you think summer brings fun up in the mountains, it’s no different back in town. Summertime means festival time, and you’ll find lots to enjoy, no matter what your taste. In Aspen, the Janus Jazz Aspen Snowmass concert series offers great music all summer. Inspired by its prestigious sister festival in Marciac, France, the season kicks off and ends with blowout concerts featuring some of the biggest names in jazz, rock, American and world music. Past artists have included an eclectic mix, from Neil Young to Tony Bennett and Wynton Marsalis to Willy Nelson. Throughout the summer, stop by Snowmass Village’s Fanny Hill for free jazz concerts each Thursday night with big names. Last year’s list included blues legend John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers and bluegrass icon the Del McCoury Band. The Aspen Music Festival offers unparalleled talent throughout the summer under the Benedict Music Tent, an architecturally stunning, acoustically rich venue. Tickets range over $50, but lawn seating is always free, and always fun. The Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival presents classical music surrounded by stunning vistas, and it’s the only summer festival in the country that hosts resident orchestras. Last year brought the Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra, the Dallas Symphony Orchestra and, new to the festival, the New York Philharmonic. The Vail Jazz Festival brings top talent to the mountains throughout the summer, culminating in an intimate cabaret-style session, the Labor Day Weekend Party. Throughout the summer, look for free afternoon concerts Saturdays at the Minturn Market. In August, the Vail International Dance Festival hosts some of the world’s greatest dancers in classical and contemporary performances. Summer brings lots of music to Summit County. Among the highlights are the Alpenglow Chamber Music Festival, a weeklong festival in Silverthorne in August, and the Breckenridge Music Festival, offering a summer-long series of classical and popular music. But that’s just a start. Popular venues like Vail’s Vilar Center for the Arts and Breckenridge’s Riverwalk Event Center, plus bars and nightclubs throughout the mountains, are busy throughout the summer with exciting music, often by top performers passing through on summer festival tours. Finding something to do this summer will not be a problem, but finding a way to do it all may be a challenge. David M. Frey is a freelance writer in Carbondale, Colorado. His work has appeared in various newspapers and magazines, including the Chicago Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Denver Post and American Profile.

The Higher You Go, The Better The Snow: Summit County
By Lillian Ross No other county in Colorado is so aptly named. Summit County boasts some of the state’s highest peaks — consequently, some of the state’s highest ski and snowboard areas. Besides their heady elevations, the advantages of high altitude recreation can be summed up in one simple phrase: The higher you go, the better the snow. When you’re skiing or riding your board on mountain peaks between 12,000 and 13,000 feet high, snow quality is primo. Light and dry snow is a given, which means the new snow in which you’re blasting through bowls of powder — or carving your turns through moguls — is easy to maneuver and a joy to play in. Summit County hasn’t forgotten its mining past, when gold and silver riches were plucked from the earth. Today’s riches are white, but those who seek out the white gold covering the hills believe they’ve found the recreational mother lode. BRECKENRIDGE There’s Breckenridge, the town, and Breckenridge, the mountain, or more precisely, the mountains. The town, a restored Victorian mining community, is one of the largest historic districts in Colorado, with more than 150 structures listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Care has been taken to maintain the integrity of the historic buildings, while new developments integrate and blend so as to offer a concerted look. The mountains — Peaks 7, 8, 9, and 10 of the Ten Mile Range — stand as sentinels behind the town and serve as the nucleus of the Breckenridge Ski Resort. More than two-dozen high-tech lifts serve 140 trails and 772 acres of gentle to extremely challenging terrain. Breckenridge, the town, offers close to 100 restaurants featuring cuisine from every corner of the globe; and there are twice as many gift and clothing shops, art galleries and antique stores lining Main Street. Then, 72 outlet stores are just a 10-minute bus ride away. Up on the mountains, snowboard competitions provide excitement — the Vans Triple Crown of Snowboarding, Dec. 12 to 14, and the Chevy Truck U.S. Snowboard Grand Prix, Jan. 8-11. But, the two events that put modern-day Breckenridge on the map are Ullr Fest, a week-long homage to the Norse God of Winter, Jan. 9-15, and the International Snow Sculpture Championships Jan. 27 through Feb. 1. Here, teams from around the world sculpt 12-ft. tall, 20-ton blocks of snow into outstanding works of art. Ice skate indoors or out, mush your own dog sled or drive a snowmobile on a guided tour. Check out the live performances at the Backstage Theater, or workout at the state-of-the-art Breckenridge Recreation Center. COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT The happening place in Summit County, on and off the mountain, is Copper. Its sexy, new village is vibrant. Very European in feel and eclectic by design, a dynamic mix of shops, restaurants and nightclubs spills forth excitement. Amazing soups and stews are put forth at The Swivel, and Endo’s Adrenaline Cafe gives you a taste of the new flavor of the resort. Pravda lets you experience a Russian-style dance club. And, it wouldn’t be a ski resort without a traditional Irish pub, Larkin’s Cross. Yet, there’s a family niche at West Lake Market with ice skating, picnic areas, and kids’ play structure. It also boasts one of the finest athletic clubs in Colorado, with a lap pool, weight room and state-of-the-art machines. The award-winning ski mountain seems to have been designed by Mother Nature herself — advanced terrain to the east, novice slopes to the west, and in between, plenty of area just right for intermediates. This way, beginners won’t be intimidated by zoomers, and zoomers won’t have to slow down for beginners. Snowboarders are in heaven at Copper, with its rider-friendly attitude; competitions are held all season long. Copper’s signature event, the Eenie Weenie Bikini Contest, now in its 19th year, will take place on April 18, snow or shine. Costumes, or lack thereof, are classic. When you want to retire the boards for a little while, go touring — on snowshoes, snowmobiles, and even at stream-fronts on fly-fishing tours. When you’re in a western frame of mind, hop on a horse-drawn sleigh for a ride through the forest to a heated tent and dinner with all the trimmings.
KEYSTONE Max Dercum, the man who envisioned and pioneered a ski mountain in his backyard, finally got his long overdue recognition. The front side of Keystone is now called Dercum Mountain. Max and Edna Dercum bought what is now Ski Tip Lodge, up Montezuma Valley from Keystone. With Max’s U.S. Forest Service and business connections, progress was started on the development of Keystone Mountain with its groomed cruising boulevards. Then, the lights were turned on, and 13 of Keystone’s runs became dreamy night skiing terrain. Next came North Peak, peeking up behind Keystone. It shows off its legendary bump runs with names like Ambush and Bullet. (Intermediates, relax; there’s terrain for you, too.) The Outback is Keystone’s third and final chapter. With 800 acres of glades and bowls, it offers pure nirvana for accomplished skiers and riders. Keystone Resort has a dual personality. The original Keystone Village is a Currier & Ives portrait with lighted trees atop a large ice skating lake, surrounded by condominiums and shopping plazas. River Run Village is its contemporary counterpart. Here, at the foot of the gondola, is a pedestrian-style neighborhood with condominium homes rising above shops and restaurants. Keystone offers a full array of activities, the newest of which is its Alpine Institute, offering hands-on courses taught by professionals. There’s after sports yoga, a hockey clinic, tennis clinic, a mountaintop trek, snowshoe ecological tours, and full-moon snowshoe tours. Of course, you can count on cross country skiing, horse-drawn sleigh rides, ice-skating and snowmobiling. The resort then sweetens your choices with stargazing workshops and wine appreciation seminars. More than anything, Keystone is a family resort. Kids’ activities rule. Ski school lessons for children prepare them for a life of skiing. There are toddler sleds on the ice skating lake. Redtail, the Mountain Man, tells tales of the West to kids encircled around an open fire. Family dining choices are everywhere, from Gassy’s to Ida Belle’s to fondue at the top of the mountain. Keystone’s signature restaurants — the Alpenglow Stube, The Keystone Ranch and Ski Tip Lodge — offer exquisite, unforgettable choices. SUMMER AT THE SUMMIT Many of the locals who came to the Summit for the winter stayed for the incredible summer due to the sunshine, temperatures in the 70s, and more to do than in a full winter. Sailboats and canoes fill Lake Dillon with its 25-mile shoreline. Paddle- boaters and kayakers navigate the small lakes at all Summit County resorts, while fishermen catch their fill of rainbow trout and kokanee salmon. Rafters looking for whitewater, roller coaster waves find them on the Blue and Arkansas Rivers. Milder float trips ride the upper Colorado River. Championship golf is offered at Bre-ckenridge (a Jack Nicklaus design), Copper Mountain (Pete and Perry Dye), Keystone’s two courses (one is by Robert Trent Jones, Jr.), and Silverthorne’s Raven Golf Club. At this elevation, golf balls travel 15 percent farther than at sea level. Drives are ego building; short games are challenging. The hills of Summit County are alive with the sounds of music — from casual performances in Copper Mountain or Keystone’s plazas to jazz headliners on the floating stage of Breckenridge’s Maggie Pond. Classical evenings are unforgettable at the Breckenridge Music Festival, with the 90-piece National Repertory Orchestra. Four-wheel tours take you above timberline to the Continental Divide. Or, you can bike the high country; each resort lets you take a rental or your own bike on chairlifts and gondolas, then ride down special bike trails. A paved bike path circles Summit County, allowing you to ride from Keystone, around Lake Dillon to Breckenridge, and up Ten Mile Canyon to Copper Mountain. If you still want some downhill thrills, ride a special sled (with brakes) on the dual tracks of Breckenridge’s Alpine Slide. One lane is for slow riders, while the other is for those who want to go all out down the hill. A chairlift brings you and your sled to the top of the tracks. The West wouldn’t be the West without horseback rides. You have your choice of trail rides into the woods and the hills. Wagon rides take you to dinners in the woods, and at barn dances, you can let your hair down. Take along a llama on a lunch hike. You walk; these gentle beasts carry the goodies. Or, hike on your own throughout miles of trails in the Summit. Each resort runs its chairlift for drop-dead gorgeous scenic rides on the mountain. At Keystone, the gondola brings you to the summit of Keystone Mountain, then to North Peak to dine at the Alpenglow Stube. As a summer bonus, most restaurants offer the warm pleasure of patio dining. You’ll also enjoy a wide variety of outlet stores and local shops that carry everything from antiques to southwestern art. With so much to offer, the Summit doesn’t miss a beat year-round. Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who writes weekly travel stories for The Denver Post, and travel stories for Colorado Expressions Magazine.

Vail/Beaver Creek: Triumph of a Dream
By Lillian Ross VAIL'S #1 Yet again, Vail secured the #1 ranking in SKI Magazine’s Top Ten North American ski resorts. The October 2003 edition of SKI gave Vail top honors out of 700 resorts on the continent. This marks the 12th time Vail claimed the #1 position since the magazine began its survey in 1988. This prestigious accolade verifies Vail’s commitment to excellence, on and off the mountain. More bragging rights: Vail was named among the Leading Mountain Resorts of the World. This international network of resorts represents the best in mountain vacation experiences. Vail is now the group’s North American member. Other global members include Bariloche, Argentina; Queenstown, New Zealand; and Val Gardena, Italy. Crowing about these honors doesn’t mean Vail is conceited; it just means it’s a great resort and worth all the kudos thrust upon it. Vail is the triumph of a dream by pioneer Peter Seibert, who began cutting the mountain’s first runs in 1960, and developed a world-class resort from a sheep pasture. He first saw the mountain while training behind it at Camp Hale with the 10th Mountain Division in World War II. The world mourned Seibert’s passing, but celebrated his life, in July 2002. Today, Vail is the largest single mountain ski area in North America. Its heart beats to the rhythm of the mountain. With an almost unimaginable 5,289 skiable acres, 3,300 acres occupy the world famous open bowls and Blue Sky Basin. Whether you’re a beginner or looking for the ultimate challenge, Vail delivers. Vail is more than just a mountain; it’s a total experience. It’s browsing in almost 150 shops, boutiques and art galleries. One-of-a-kind treasures will captivate you. Fashions at Pepi’s or Gorsuch are impeccable, while the last word in home accessories will be found at Slifer Designs. The Vail experience means being pampered and massaged after a day on the hill, or instead of a day on the hill. World-class spa facilities and fitness centers are found at the Aria Spa & Club at the Vail Cascade Resort, the Spa at Vail Mountain Lodge, and the Spa at the Sonnenalp Resort. Dining at Vail is incomparable. Every choice you make will result in the most memorable of evenings. Game Creek, offering the epitome of Colorado regional cuisine, is tucked away in a forested glen in Game Creek Bowl. A gondola and sleigh ride bring you to this hideaway. In town, The Wildflower, voted #1 in Vail in the 2000 Zagat Survey, is a Mobil four-star winner. Larkspur is a multicultural experience in an American brasserie. Try the Alaskan halibut meuniere with manila clams, asparagus and piperade. At La Tour, you’ll savor the finest Nouvelle French cuisine. And, if you simply crave a slice of pizza, head to Vendetta’s. If you’re looking for non-skiing, on-snow fun for everyone in your party, head for Adventure Ridge, atop Lionshead. The gondola brings you to this playground, which gets going at sunset. Try ski biking or thrill sledding head first on a sled (with brakes) to the bottom of the mountain. Headlamps are provided. Meanwhile, back in town, Streetbeat is the resort’s free concert series offering a variety of musical styles.
BEAVER CREEK Not to be outdone, Beaver Creek ranks #8 in SKI Ma-gazine’s survey of best out of 700 ski resorts on the continent. With its own identity, and a level of luxury unmatched in Colorado, Beaver Creek exudes elegance — as does neighboring Bachelor Gulch. The ultimate in slope side convenience, Beaver Creek offers heated and covered escalators to bring you and all your gear up the three levels of the village, directly to the entrance of the lifts. For the most part, Beaver Creek is an intermediate mountain, with lots of room for kids and beginners. But, the resort also touts its Birds of Prey terrain, and, this year, "The Talons," a challenging area to test everyone’s mettle. In conjunction with this terrain, Beaver Creek opens its 7th high-speed lift, the Birds of Prey Express. This year, the resort introduces Park-ology, a learning terrain for freeskiers and riders with terrain parks and half-pipe. A small, turn-of-the-century theater in Munich inspired the design of the Vilar Center for the Performing Arts. The intimate theater has become one of Colorado’s premier cultural and entertainment venues. This winter will feature the Nutcracker Ballet Dec. 12-14, the popular show Grease Dec. 16, A Streetcar Named Desire on Jan. 31, La Traviata on Feb. 17, the Aspen/Santa Fe Ballet Mar. 23, and Michael Flatley’s Lord of the Dance on Mar. 30, just to mention a few. The resort has become a hotbed for high-end galleries and boutiques. There’s even a boutique of handcrafted jewelry featuring the resort’s insignia, the golden beaver — an icon that has become a coveted memento at Beaver Creek. In the neighboring valley to the west is Bachelor Gulch. The slopes here are nearly obstacle-free intermediate cruisers. To pamper guests at this resort, The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch is a ski-in/ski-out luxury hotel, modeled after the grand lodges of national parks, with its own 21,000-sq.-ft. spa and fitness center. The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch is the only ski resort in Colorado to be listed in Conde Nast Traveler’s "Hot List 2003.” In a word, resort dining is sumptuous. World famous Beano’s Cabin, high on the mountain at Beaver Creek, offers award-winning Colo-rado fare such as rack of lamb. In winter, a sleigh ride is your transport; in summer, you can opt for a hay wagon or horseback. The Grouse Mountain Grill, in the Pines Lodge, overlooks this sparkling resort. Awards are numerous, rightly so, with cuisine features such as pretzel-crusted pork chops. Splendido, in the majestic Chateau, has a classic European feel with its Italian linens, French silver and German crystal, which are the setting for exceptional regional cuisine. Mirabelle, in a turn-of-the-century ranch house at the resort’s entrance, presents award-winning Belgian fare including elk and salmon dishes. SUMMER IN THE VAIL VALLEY Expect a profusion of color — wildflowers on the mountain and in the villages. The most colorful corner of Vail is in the Betty Ford Alpine Gardens. Here, more than 1,500 native and mountain species of plants are showcased. In July, lanes of magenta, lavender, peach, gold, and even black poppies are in full bloom, enveloping you in their massive size and fragile beauty. Critically acclaimed arts festivals summon the most extraordinary creativity from across the country. Both Vail and Beaver Creek are famous for their works of public art — bronze sculptures that capture the essence of life outdoors in the Colorado mountains. Vail’s sculpture of young girls frolicking in a plaza fountain is widely photographed by visitors. Other Kodak moments occur at The Gerald Ford Amphitheater Vilar Pavilion in Vail. From the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival with its litany of classical concerts to Hot Summer Nights featuring complimentary performances in the popular genre, the sound of music is everywhere. The Vail International Dance Festival offers seasoned classics, contemporary masterpieces and world premieres, which are performed by the world’s greatest dance artists. Enjoy the mountains in summer on hiking or biking trails. You can spend the day walking knee-deep in wildflowers. Gondolas and chairlifts bring you and your bike to heady heights. Beaver Creek Stables offer horseback rides that lace their way up the mountain. At Piney Lake, north of Vail, rides take you into the Eagles Nest Wilderness area, while Jeep tours take off in other directions. Golf balls can be driven farther in the thin mountain air, which might explain why the valley offers 15 courses. The real reason for lots of links: You can’t imagine a more glorious place to play the game. A sunrise flight in a hot-air balloon gives you a bird’s-eye view of many golf courses. Experience suspended animation as your balloon quietly drifts with the air currents 3,000 feet above the valley floor. Year-round, you’ll find fly fishermen on the banks of streams and rivers, while down valley, rafters test the whitewater of the Eagle River. Guides take you on mild to wild adventures, based on your experience. Kids have their own vacations in the valley. Nature centers, day and overnight camps and children’s theaters let youngsters have their fun while mom and dad escape for a diversion of their own. Summer festivals are spectacular. If you’re here for the Fourth of July, you won’t want to miss the state-of-the-art pyrotechnics display in Avon; it’s a dazzling show. Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who writes weekly travel stories for The Denver Post, and travel stories for Colorado Expressions Magazine.

Aspen and Snowmass
By Lillian Ross photos by j. kevin foltz If You Knew Aspen Like I Know Aspen The year was 1958, but it seems like yesterday. There I was, all of 23 years old, riding a bus alone from Denver to Aspen. Aspen! The big mountain this little New Yorker had heard about, but never seen. Its reputationpreceded it even 45 years ago. I was told it was big and steep, so when I saw the bus heading toward Mt. Sopris, I thought I was in big trouble. Arriving in Aspen, fears were allayed, but not by much. Barely able to execute a stem christy, I knew I’d bitten off more than I could chew. Besides, I wasn’t about to ride that rickety-looking single chairlift ascending Ruthie’s Run. Not to worry; Aspen Highlands opened that year so I planned to hide out on its novice slopes. Then on to the Alpine Lodge at the south edge of town — a rustic, affordable place run by Tony and Ilse Woerndle, who dished out hearty breakfasts and dinners, to boot. Evenings were spent at the Crystal Palace listening to Mead Metcalf and his politically incorrect tunes. (He’s still belting them out.) Or at the Limelite, where Marilyn Child, Glenn Yarborough and the Limeliters got their start. That was then, and this is now. You won’t find the Alpine Lodge today. It was razed years ago and replaced by high-end condos. In fact, you won’t find a spare acre of ground that hasn’t been developed with lodging, shops and restaurants. Aspen is the quintessential winter and summer resort, attracting the rich and famous to the town’s extraordinary boutiques, galleries, historic hotels, and luxurious mountain amenities. Aspen also attracts serious snow sport buffs looking to log thousands of vertical feet on the big mountain’s legendary, steep runs. Aspen Mountain deserves all the respect you can bestow upon it. It’s the Grand Dame. When Buttermilk, Snowmass and Aspen Highlands debuted, they offered sweet alternatives close by for those not quite ready for prime-time Aspen. Aspen Highlands, however, also touts the state’s epic challenges. In its bowl at a heady 12,392-ft., you can tackle a 45-degree double black diamond slope of 1,000 vertical feet. To reach it, take the upper chair, a free snowcat ride, and then a short hike. The thrill is worth the work. The Highlands recently unveiled its new ski-in/ski-out village. With its restaurants, shops and residential neighborhoods, it offers the chance to live along the slopes famous for their untamed character, colorful past and maverick image. Snowmass, with its sequestered village down valley a bit, has a mountain that’s an intermediate’s delight. The Big Burn still holds the distinction of being the best wide-open cruising playground in Colorado. Its extended pipeline terrain park is a snowboarder’s favorite. Snowmass boasts the longest lift-served vertical rise in the United States: 4,406 feet. Buttermilk is what its name implies: Cushy, non-threatening, easy-going, and home to the world’s longest snowboarder terrain park. Aspen’s Silver Queen gondola takes you two-and-a-half miles to the summit of Aspen Mountain in 18 minutes (a far cry from that single-seater chairlift). Aspen, one of the last hold outs for a skier-only mountain, caved to the pleas of snowboarders. Now, both skiers and riders share the mountain. For a radical experience, climb aboard a snowcat to blast through the untouched powder in Aspen’s backyard. Or, strap on snowshoes for tours in conjunction with the Aspen Center for Environmental Studies, and conducted by naturalist guides. Aspen’s tour starts at the top of the mountain (following your gondola ride), and is an easy walk along 11,000-ft. Richmond Ridge. Tours at Snowmass follow a secluded, off-trail loop through the woods at Two Creeks. Along the way, mountain ecology, flora and fauna are explored and explained. Cross-country skiers, those into classic and skating disciplines, will find 65 kilometers of trails at Aspen/Snowmass — the largest groomed Nordic trail system in North America. Twelve eager huskies (some Iditarod veterans) pull two-person, handcrafted wooden sleds across snowfields at Snowmass, and to four-course wild game lunches at Krabloonik, a 100-yr.-old log cabin restaurant. Horse-drawn sleigh rides are a given in the Aspen/Snowmass valley. Massive draft horses laden with sleigh bells do the work; you enjoy the ride. For a true adventure, try paragliding above the slopes of Aspen. USHGA-certified tandem pilots take you off Walsh’s or Ruthie’s Run for the most exciting 15 minutes of your life. Like things a bit more tame? Hot-air balloon rides give you the thrill of a bird’s-eye view without the adrenaline rush of paragliding. Snowmobile tours take you into the nooks and crannies of the Aspen valley backcountry. Guides know their way; you just enjoy driving a machine of your own. Indoor and outdoor rinks let you practice ice skating techniques. Of course, rental skates are available. Spas have become a way of life in tony resorts. Indulge yourself in a luxurious massage, facial or beauty treatment at the acclaimed Aspen Club, Snowmass Club and Aspen Meadows Health Club. Down valley, in Glenwood Springs, dip into the world’s largest outdoor hot springs pool, and float under the stars in 90-degree water, surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
Winter Aspen Culture The internationally renowned Aspen Music Festival, thrilling audiences in summer, also presents an Artist Recital Series from November through April, as well as a winter concert series. Prepare to be enchanted. The Anderson Ranch Arts Center, formerly a turn-of-the-century cattle and sheep ranch, turned its historic barns into studios, set up a gallery and inaugurated an informal workshop program. Today, this year-round visual arts community holds public functions each week. What was originally the first hydroelectric plant west of the Mississippi is home to the 23-year-old Aspen Art Museum, and open to the public to showcase its rotating exhibits. Aspen Filmfest has presented new American independent films, international films, premieres and tributes for the past 20 years. In recent years, screenings have included Shakespeare in Love, Life is Beautiful, and Central Station. Holiday screenings of this year’s surprises are planned. The only professional ballet company based in the Colorado Rocky Mountains is the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet. Holiday performances are scheduled. Be sure to check out the schedule of dance, theater, music and comedy slated to appear at the historic Wheeler Opera House. Past acts have included Lyle Lovett, Stomp, and Jewel. Summer In Aspen/Snowmass Aspen is so named because of the proliferation of aspen trees covering the valley in green — and in fall, illuminating the area in gold. Golf courses in the Aspen/Snowmass valley have won more awards than you can shake a club at. In addition to the challenging layouts, the courses are encircled with drop-dead gorgeous views. With golf drives traveling 10 to 15 percent farther than at sea level, you’ll feel as though you can reach the mountain peaks. Hiking tours on Aspen Mountain follow the same routes as snowshoe tours in winter. Instead of snow-covered forests, you’ll walk through meadows carpeted with flowers of every color. At Snowmass, ride the Burlingame lift to mid-mountain and enjoy a game of disc golf, hike the trails, or walk down the hill. For the more serious hikers, the fourteeners around Aspen oblige. Fish for famed rainbow trout on the Roaring Fork River. Get your fill of whitewater excitement in a raft or kayak on the nearby Colorado, Arkansas or Roaring Fork Rivers. Bike the roads in the valley and mountain bike in the hills. There are even downhill bike tours for every ability, beginner to expert. Tour the Compromise and Smuggler Mines to see where miners first discovered silver deep in the mountainsides. Then, allow the Aspen Historical Society to show you the ghost towns of Ashcroft and Independence, and get a feel of what life was like in the mid-to-late 1800s. As much as the Aspen valley draws you outdoors, its cultural offerings bring you indoors. More than 100,000 visitors flock to the Aspen Music Festival in its 2,050-seat elaborate music tent. For nine weeks each summer, the festival presents 150 musical events and concerts. Afternoon rehearsals, where you can listen in on conversations between the conductor and the musicians, may be enjoyed for a fraction of evening concert prices. In addition to the plethora of cultural opportunities mentioned above, the Aspen Writers’ Foundation sponsors programs for readers and writers of all ages, and Theatre in the Park produces classical and new works, integrating local and national talent. Jazz Aspen at Snowmass is dedicated to the performance and preservation of jazz and American musicians. The June and Labor Day festivals attract the top names in jazz, as do the free concerts throughout the summer. Dining And Shopping Without question, some of the planet’s best restaurants are in this valley. So many, you may make a return trip solely for the dining experiences. For a truly unique evening, reserve a seat at the Chef’s Table at the Cooking School of Aspen. Part dining, part education and part theatre, the evening incorporates watching culinary talents from Tokyo to Tuscany to San Francisco and Aspen prepare a four-course dinner paired with wines selected by the in-house sommelier. The Century Room at the Hotel Jerome is a classic. Under the direction of Executive Chef Todd Slossberg, nominated in 2000 and 2001 for the James Beard Foundation Award as \"Best Chef in the Southwest,\" the Hotel Jerome offers contemporary American cuisine with regional influences. Renaissance Restaurant, presenting haute rustic French cuisine, and Rustique Bistro, a French-styled cozy bistro, are two restaurants under the direction of chef/owner Charles Dale, who has been named one of Food & Wine magazine’s best new chefs. Olives, in the St. Regis Aspen, showcases award-winning Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Try the grilled rib eye of beef served on a red wine oxtail braise. Takah Sushi is always packed. Make a reservation or belly up to the bar with the locals. Sister restaurant to Napa’s famous Tra Vigne, Ajax Tavern — at the foot of the gondola — is a favorite among locals, visitors and celebrities. A landmark in Aspen, with its roots planted in the 1950s, is the Crystal Palace, serving dinner and cabaret-style entertainment spoofing today’s political scene. Out of the way, but out of this world, at Snowmass, a snowcat takes you to the Lynn Britt Cabin on the slopes for exquisite delights. Shopping in the Aspen valley is incomparable. Out in Castle Creek valley is the Toklat Gallery, where you’ll find handcrafted art in all media — Polish tapestries, Zapotec rugs from Mexico, totem poles, pottery and shamans. The multitude of shops in Aspen offer everything from fine European antiques to second hand collectibles. There are 23 art galleries, an equal number of clothing shops and 20 jewelry shops. If you’re looking for the Gucci label, or any other designer label, head to one of many world-class shops and name-brand outlets. Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who writes weekly travel stories for The Denver Post, and travel stories for Colorado Expressions Magazine.

Colorado Mountain Express: 20 Years and Counting
Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, CME was founded in 1983 by college buddies who firmly established its identity and reputation for the next 14 years. In 1997 East West Partners, a Vail Valley-based leader in resort development, purchased CME and took the company to new heights. They not only upgraded virtually every aspect of CME, but also turned it into the Colorado Rockies’ largest airport ground transportation service, one that offers the most frequent van service between Denver International Airport (DIA) and the Vail Valley, DIA and Aspen, and the Eagle County Regional Airport and the Vail Valley. With more than 125 vehicles and a peak season staff of 150 employees, CME carries approximately 225,000 guests during an average year and approximately 3,000 guests on a Saturday in peak season. Jay Ufer, President of CME and its sister company, Summit County’s Resort Express (celebrating its 21st anniversary this year), explains that considerable strength and resources from East West Partners assured CME of maintaining and expanding its leadership position. Among East West Partners’ improvements was the building of a new state-of-the-art headquarters and maintenance facility just west of Beaver Creek. Most importantly, Ufer credits “commitment to safety, quality and to the community as three variables that have led to CME’s longevity.” Safety, of course, comes first. “We have always been an industry leader with extensive training and safety programs,” he notes. “We also replace our fleet every two to three years.” Embracing the technology also keeps CME on the cutting edge. For example, CME operates Highway Monitor, an innovative system that monitors company drivers and their movements during their runs between the resorts and the airports. Moreover, CME hired Highway Monitor’s inventor to ensure optimum use of the system. Colorado Mountain Express also makes significant investments in its website and reservations systems as new technology develops. As a result, these systems are among the most user-friendly of their kind. Passenger comfort is always a top priority at CME as well. In this area, the company continues to initiate a variety of programs to meet customer demand and expectations. Among those is Premier VIP Transportation, a chauffeured service that utilizes the fleet of spacious Chevrolet Suburbans and Cadillacs and offers on-board, first-class amenities such as chilled beverages and plush seats. The vehicles also feature a selection of DVD movies. Much of the success of the company also comes from its community involvement, adds Jim Feldhaus, CME’s Vice President of Marketing. CME retains its vigorous sponsorship and marketing programs with its local partners, including the Vail Valley Chamber & Tourism Bureau, the Vail Valley Foundation, Vail Resorts, Aspen Ski Company, area lodges and many others business entities. The organizations and programs CME currently supports encompass the cultural, entertaining and athletic aspects of the community and include such diverse entities as the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival, the Vilar Center for the Arts, the Vail Jazz Festival, Jazz Aspen/Snowmass Festival and numerous snow sport competitions. “We believe that with success comes responsibility,” says Feldhaus. “We maintain our sponsorship programs as a means not only to increase our exposure in the marketplace to both guests and locals, but as a means to help promote tourism into the valley.” For more information about Colorado Mountain Express, log onto www.cmex.com or call 800-525-6363.

Arnold Palmer Eagle Ranch Course Offers Challenge And Value
By Don Berger One of the best golfing values to be found in the Colorado Rocky Mountain resorts is also one of the most distinctive. Located about a half hour west of Vail, the Eagle Ranch Golf Course is the state’s only Arnold Palmer Signature Course that is public. In fact, Eagle Ranch is the first public golf course to open in the Vail Valley and Eagle County in more than 25 years. The course also recently became an Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, a prestigious certification for exceptional environmental and wildlife management. Eagle Ranch developers and the Town of Eagle planned the golf course as an affordable community facility. The greens fees reflect this philosophy, notes Jeff Boyer, the course's director of golf. He says that even the non-residents’ fees are among the most reasonable in the region. Spanning the incredibly scenic Brush Creek Valley and offering incredible views of the surrounding Sawatch mountains, Flat Tops and Castle Peak, the par-72 course has a rating of 74.8 and a slope of 141 from the back tees. “Five sets of tees range from 5,400 yards to 7,500 yards, so players can select the right tee for their abilities and existing wind and other conditions,” explains Boyer. An abundance of water features includes the “signature” lake bordering both the 9th and 18th holes, as well as meandering streams that feed the course’s many ponds. Native grasses enhance the ranch theme and are also used for the surrounds around the numerous cluster bunkers. Boyer notes that because the Eagle Ranch Golf Course “has probably the largest practice facility in the area, golfers have a wonderful opportunity to work on their game or receive instruction from our PGA golf professionals.” Eagle Ranch golfers have few problems navigating the course, thanks to the GPS systems installed on every cart. The course, which opened in 2001, is a major component of Eagle Ranch, a “neo-traditional” community that echoes small town America with closely knit neighborhoods, tree-lined streets, homes with covered porches and a traditional village center. Located adjacent to the Town of Eagle, the county seat to which it has been annexed, Eagle Ranch also features a bevy of recreational amenities such as a formal community park and community center, a restored dairy barn with an adjoining stage for outdoor concerts, several miles of walking and cycling trails and a Town of Eagle ice rink and swimming pool. The community has proven popular with local families, second homeowners and pre-retirees. Eagle Ranch Realtor Doug Landin says that home sites on and beyond the golf course are especially popular. Ranging in price from $98,500 to $200,000, these properties represent significant value considering their locations and the dwindling inventory of available golf course properties in the Vail Valley. Sales for the eight-month period ending August 2, 2003 totaled a robust $20 million. For more information about the Eagle Ranch Golf Club, call 970-328-2882 or log onto www.eagleranchgolf.com.

President's Welcome - Winter 2004
Dear Guest, Welcome to the Colorado Rockies. As countless numbers of locals and guests have realized, the Colorado Rockies offer not only spectacular natural beauty, but also an astounding number of opportunities to nourish both body and soul. In winter, what first comes to mind is snow and the my-riad activities that this white gold provides. From skiing to snowboarding, snowshoeing to dog sledding, the Rockies provide the finest in winter recreational sports for all ability levels. Non-winter months offer an even broader variety of recreational activities. Golf, hiking, cycling, fishing, horseback ri-ding, rafting, kayaking, hot-air ballooning... the list is endless. Not only are these activities physically invigorating, they also inspire us to get up close with some of America’s most awesome scenery. But the Rockies mean more than recreational pursuits. Our resorts offer a cultural scene boasting an exceptional level of sophistication. Indeed, the Rockies have become a cultural mecca, one that features the world’s finest artists from virtually all genres sharing their talents in a blaze of festivals, concerts and theatrical performances. Destinations West’s in-depth guides to the resort communities served by Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express provide a colorful preview of the many aspects of vacationing in the Colorado Rockies. We also have included a year-round calendar highlighting the best of the Rockies, as well as useful information on how to get the most out of your vacation. As the on-board publication of Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express, Destinations West is yours to take with our compliments. So sit back, relax and enjoy the trip. We hope you have a great vacation in the Colorado Rockies Sincerely, Jay Ufer President Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express

Colorado Mountain Express - Resort Express
Being a good corporate neighbor has always been one of Colorado Mountain Express’s primary goals. We try to achieve this goal in a variety of ways, including supporting numerous community events and programs throughout the year. In the summer, these include popular attractions such as the Bravo! Vail Valley Music Festival, the Vail International Dance Festival, the programs of the Vilar Center for the Arts and much more. CME is also a major sponsor of two of Vail Valley’s summer bookend events: the Big Wheel n’ Chili in June and the Vail Jazz Festival over Labor Day Weekend. The Big Wheel n’ Chili Festival is a daylong event featuring chefs from local restaurants offering their own particular styles of chili and salsa from booths that line the village streets. The highlight of the day is the Colorado Mountain Express Big Wheel Classic. A blend of the exotic and the absurd, the Big Wheel race turns Vail Village’s main pedestrian thoroughfare into an outrageous race course for a rampage of makeshift drag racing on kid-sized bicycles! Before the race, each four-person team has to put together their “racer” using a supplied kit. Although each team may adorn the bicycle with whatever decorations they want, each vehicle can only be assembled with a block of wood and duct tape provided by the organizers at registration. No other tools are allowed, nor can a team grease its bike. Needless to say, the normal orderliness of the village center dissolves into complete chaos once the race starts. Drivers routinely spill out onto the course as their vehicles break, spin and crash. Aside from prizes, these fearless competitors earn the admiration of the more than 5,000 cheering fans that line the course. Jazz takes center stage over Labor Day Weekend, as the long-running Vail Jazz Festival lights up Lionshead with the world’s greatest jazz musicians — including vibraphonist Bobby Hutcherson, alto sax man Hank Crawford, pianist Monty Alexander, the Clayton Brothers Quintet and vocalist/pianist Diana Krall — playing in an intimate cabaret setting. The festival also includes free outdoor concerts throughout August and a workshop for gifted high school age musicians. CME is proud to be part of these events and many other community programs. Not only do these programs enhance our guests’ experience, they also enrich the quality of life for our residents. Resort Express One of the most rewarding aspects of Resort Express’s 20th anniversary was receiving the “Outstanding Business of the Year 2001” award from the Summit Foundation. The award is given annually to a business that exhibits “support, dedication and generosity to Summit County and its residents.” Like Colorado Mountain Express, our sister company in the Vail Valley and Aspen/Snowmass, Resort Express continually strives to be a good corporate neighbor. In addition to providing support and sponsorship for such venerable institutions as the Summit Foundation, the Breckenridge Music Festival, the Lake Dillon Foundation for the Performing Arts and the Lake Dillon Theater Company, we also provide support for a variety of other deserving programs, sometimes in nontraditional ways. “For instance, we held a food drive for the food banks of both the Family and Intercultural Resource Center (FIRK) and the Summit County Social Services,” explains Jeff Lehman of Resort Express. “How we did it was a bit unusual. We created a list of needed foods with both organizations and then contacted the Dillon and Breckenridge City Markets and the Frisco Safeway to ask if we could park a van, complete with banners, by their entrances.” Volunteers would then pass out lists of foods needed to shoppers going in, who would then buy and drop off the food at the van on their way out. This ended up helping us collect enough to feed 95 families. According to Lehman, silent auctions play a big role in the fabric of Summit County life and Resort Express always felt it important to contribute when asked, participating in fundraising auctions for Summit County Senior Citizens, Advocates for Victims of Assault, Summit Recycling Project and Bristlecone Health Services. We also try to help with cash donations to organizations and events, like the Miles for Miracles 5K trail race to benefit the Children’s Miracle Network, Dillon’s annual Summit Soap Box Derby and the Steve Watson Golf Tournament. Giving back to our community not only makes sense for us as a business entity in Summit County, it also makes sense because we, as individuals, live in Summit County. We want our home to be as good as it can possibly be — for our guests, our kids and ourselves.

CAR-FREE AND CAREFREE!
Getting around our resorts is easy. One of the most charming aspects of winter in the Rockies is the laid back and hassle-free nature of our resorts. This ambiance is accomplished, in large part, by the pedestrian friendly nature of each resort. In fact, there is little reason for a vacationer to bring or rent a car. After Colorado Mountain Express or Resort Express transports you between the airport and your accommodations, you will find that getting around is a breeze. Whether the resort had its genesis as a 19th- century mining town (Aspen and Breckenridge) or was designed as a ski area (Beaver Creek, Copper Mountain, Keystone, Snowmass and Vail), each shares similar features that greatly facilitate transportation within and between these communities. Virtually all have well-planned pedestrian plazas lined with a cornucopia of boutiques and shops, art galleries and restaurants. Strolling along these plazas — which usually lead to the ski slopes — is a major part of the vacation experience. Each village also offers free or inexpensive intra- and inter-resort transportation. For example, the Town of Vail operates the nation's largest free public transportation system. That system includes a shuttle that runs continuously between Vail Village and Lionshead, with numerous stops along the way. Aspen has a similar service, as does Copper and Keystone. Breckenridge has a town trolley to take you around town. In addition, Breckenridge and Aspen have a skier bus service to take you to and from the slopes. And Beaver Creek offers its lodging guests and residents free in-village transportation with Dial-A-Ride service. A free bus service also connects the town of Avon, located at the entrance to Beaver Creek Resort, with the Beaver Creek Village. Avon also has its own free intra-community bus system. Transportation between nearby resorts is also provided. The free and frequent Summit Stage connects the mountain resort towns of Summit County, as well as the lakeside communities of Frisco, Dillon and Silverthorne. The latter is the site of a popular factory outlet store complex. Keystone, which has free intra-resort transportation, also offers service to Arapahoe Basin and Breckenridge. And for a small fee, Vail Resorts offers a skier shuttle between Keystone and Breckenridge to Vail Resort. In Eagle County, the publicly funded ECO Transit bus system connects Vail, Beaver Creek and other communities for a nominal fee. The same is true in Pitkin County, where Roaring Fork Transportation Agency (RFTA) links Aspen and Snowmass as well as the other communities of the Roaring Fork Valley. These include the historic town of Glenwood Springs and its world-famous hot springs pools. Finally, taxi service is available throughout the area, and many lodges and hotels offer free shuttle service to and from the village cores and adjacent slopes. All of these services, while valuable year-round, are especially useful during winter when road conditions can be daunting for those not used to mountain driving. We should note that the safety record of each of these systems is excellent and many have been cited for national awards. For example, in 1996, Mass Transit Magazine named RFTA the “Best Mass Transit System of North America.” Your Colorado Mountain Express or Resort Express driver can direct you to the proper locations. So sit back with the reassuring knowledge that you don’t have to worry about a car or parking during your Rocky Mountain vacation. See Useful Information for contact details.

President’s Welcome - Summer
Dear Guest, Welcome to summer in the Rockies. When most people think of the Central Rockies, they think of our fabulous winter sports offerings, such as skiing and snowboarding. But up here the fun doesn’t take the summer off. This issue of Destinations West reflects the diversity of the region. Although justifiably renowned for their fabulous winter snow sports, the resorts of the Central Rockies offer a large array of activities and attractions in the summer. From golf to jazz, from backpacking to ballet, from rodeos to hot air balloon festivals, there is something to please even the most discriminating individual. The lakes, creeks and streams of the region abound with trout and other indigenous fish, while the rivers also offer adventurous hours of kayaking and rafting fun. We also feature a glimpse of wine country. No, not Napa or Sonoma, Burgundy or Bordeaux, but rather right here in western Colorado. Based around Grand Junction and Palisade, Colorado wines are quickly making names for themselves among aficionados and novices alike. Closer to home, we explore the region’s abandoned gold mines, which give you a firsthand look at what it was like to be a miner and learn more about Colorado’s rich mining history. We then tackle one of Colorado’s famed 14er’s (mountains 14,000 feet or higher), which have attracted yet another breed of Rocky Mountain adventurers. In this issue, we also highlight the luxurious Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa. Since only a few Hyatt properties have been designated as a “Park Hyatt” hotel, we are proud to be the home to one of these one-of-a-kind properties. So sit back and enjoy a summer preview in this edition of Destinations West magazine, which also features exciting articles on shopping, dining, and art and music festivals, along with one of the most complete calendar of events published in Colorado’s Central Rockies. Destinations West, our on-board publication, is yours to take with our compliments. Enjoy your stay and we look forward to seeing you again when Colorado’s fabulous snows once again turn our resorts into winter wonderlands. Sincerely, Jay Ufer President Colorado Mountain Express

President’s Welcome - Winter
Dear Guest, Welcome to winter in the Rockies. We who live in the Colorado Rockies feel fortunate. Not only are we blessed with tremendous natural beauty, we also enjoy a lifestyle constantly nourished by a rich diversity of activities that rouse both the body and the soul. In this issue of DESTINATIONS WEST, we examine some of those activities that have made our resorts so popular with locals and visitors alike. You’ll find out about preparing for the ultimate ski experience and what to do before you hit the slopes. We also feature dogsledding, a fascinating sport that is always a popular activity during Rocky Mountain winters. We learn about these remarkable dogs, their owners and the best ways to learn the sport. But winter in the Rockies means more than snow sports and other recreational pursuits. Our resorts offer a cultural scene boasting an exceptional level of sophistication. From the best of visual arts to the best in performing arts, there is something for even the most discriminating tastes. This is amply evident in our “Soul Food” and “Showtime Dazzles the Rockies” features. The former examines the wide range of visual offerings throughout our resorts while the latter focuses in on two of the Vail Valley\'s most exciting performing venues: the Vilar Center for the Arts in Beaver Creek Resort and the Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater in Vail Village. Together, they have propelled the community into the forefront of the Colorado cultural scene by attracting both national and international headliners as well as regional and local performers. And then there is that ever-popular pastime — stargazing. And where better to indulge in this passion than Aspen? For decades, this sparkling resort has been a magnet for celebrities. Luminaries such as Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell, Jack Nicholson, Michael Douglas, Donald Trump and Chris Evert and Andy Mill spend significant portions of the year at their Aspen homes. But where do these and other celebrities hang out when in town? For an in-the-know guide, turn to “Stargazing in Aspen.” These are but a few of the stories we hope will enhance your Rocky Mountain vacation. We also have included one of the most complete calendar of winter events published in Colorado’s Central Rockies as well as useful information on how to get the most out of your vacation. (As the on-board publication of Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express, DESTINATIONS WEST is yours to take with our compliments.) So sit back, relax and enjoy the trip. And have a great vacation in the Colorado Rockies. Sincerely, Jay Ufer President Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express

Fine Dining to Please Your Palate
When Colorado skiing was in its infancy 50 years ago, people went up the hill and came down the hill, many times. When hunger pangs were impossible to ignore, a hamburger filled the void. Period. We've come a long way, baby. Four-star restaurants command mountaintop settings. New Zealand mussels and cockles are menu regulars. Roasted elk medallions melt in your mouth. And, you can order your crème brulée with or without flambé. Hamburgers are still around, but haute cuisine is a delicious punctuation to a day on the mountain. Just hope your vacation is long enough to visit ski country’s plethora of multi-award-winning restaurants, many of which boast chefs honored at James Beard House in New York City. Here, a mere soupçon... Aspen knows how to pamper its star-studded clientele. It's difficult to choose outstanding restaurants, when each one is stellar. The Century Room in the Hotel Jerome is reminiscent of history from 1889. Butter-poached Maine lobster, stuffed loin of veal with prosciutto or scallops with white truffle gnocchi fill a room draped in burgundy velvet and Italian tapestries. Olives, in the sophisticated St. Regis Aspen, showcases award-winning, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Try the grilled rib eye of beef served in a red- wine oxtail braise with crispy mushroom croquette and a scotch-bonnet salsa. Cache Cache offers French food in a lively see-and-be-seen dining room (and courtyard, in summer). The grilled salmon is divine, served with spinach, tomato fondue, basil and olive puree. "Haute Rustic" cuisine is the trademark of the Renaissance. A recommendation — try the crispy Chilean sea bass with artichokes and Shiitake mushrooms. Tucked in a mountain valley, Beaver Creek basks in quiet elegance, which extends to its gracious and unforgettable dining experience. Mirabelle's quaint Victorian-style house stands out in this contemporary resort. Also non-traditional is the light French cuisine without heavy sauces or cream. Relish the lobster and calamari casserole or Colorado lamb chops. As extraordinary as its name, Splendido blends American, French Provencal and Italian influences in the delicious tradition of a French chateau. More than 350 wine selections accompany Maine sea scallops, mesquite-grilled elk or Dover sole à la Meuniere. A food adventure tempts you at Patina, located inside the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa, with fare of the Pacific Rim fused with the taste of the southwest. Progressive, yet relaxed, Patina also features a tapas/sushi bar with outstanding taste sensations. From your table in the Grouse Mountain Grill at The Pines Lodge, your view of the Beaver Creek valley is uninterrupted. This mountain-style American grill features rustic preparations of fine meats and fresh fish. Try the bacon-wrapped breast of pheasant, or the jumbo lobster and sweet-potato ravioli.
In the historic, restored Victorian town of Breckenridge, more than a 100 restaurants cater to every palate and every purse. The finest are unquestionably — Cafe Alpine, one of the best in the state. Continental American dining, including olive, fresh mozzarella and arugula-stuffed chicken with pine-nut risotto. You simply must order the chocolate mousse tower — berries filling a column of white and dark chocolate, topped with chocolate lightning bolts — it’s nearly 12 inches high. There's a reason the Overlook Tavern and Grille is so named; the view from its dining room embraces the Continental Divide and the four mountains of the Breckenridge Ski Resort. The cuisine complements the stunning scenery, and the elegant presentation of top dishes might include Rocky Mountain trout stuffed with crab or bacon-wrapped beef tenderloin. The unique location of Keystone’s finest restaurants adds to your evening's indelible dining experience. The Alpenglow Stube, at 11,444-feet above sea level, is North America's highest gourmet restaurant. Following two scenic gondola rides, you'll reach the Outpost, a spectacular log and stone lodge atop North Peak. Exquisite Alpine cuisine with a Bavarian flair offers one of life's unforgettable evenings. Among the Stube's signatures: pinecone pâté with duck foie gras, a mixed grill of caribou and salmon and a high-country vegetarian ravioli. The Keystone Ranch, an elegantly restored 1930s ranching homestead, sits on one of the resort's golf courses. The incomparable Colorado cuisine, presented in six courses, can include Ahi tuna, range-fed veal and a spire of berries with raspberry chocolate mousse. Ski Tip Lodge is a restored stagecoach way station from the 1860s. Now a charming country inn with an award-winning restaurant, your entrees may include a bounty of wild hare, buffalo and venison or breast of Muscovy duck. Visited by people from around the globe, Vail is also home to famed international flavors. La Tour (Tel: 970-476-4403) presents some of the finest Nouvelle French cuisine in the Vail Valley. Choose champagnes by the glass to accompany Russian caviar (Beluga, Osetra, and Sevruga), classic French onion soup, diver-caught sea scallops, sweet-potato ravioli, and crème broulée flambé. Chaps Grill & Chophouse (Tel: 970-479-7014) is the place to go when you're hankerin' for the kind of steaks, prime rib and chops that cut with a fork and melt in your mouth. It's the last word when you want the best of the West. Larkspur, (Tel: 970-479-8050) in the Golden Peak Lodge at the foot of the mountain, is an American brasserie with a gourmet twist. Classically simple — yet profoundly elegant — its creative American menu includes seared salmon tartare, potato-crusted crab cake and crispy air-dried duck. www.larkspurvail.com Game Creek is nestled in a forested grove in the Game Creek Bowl on the backside of Lionshead at Vail. This European-style chalet is reached by gondola, followed by a ride in a Snowcat-driven sleigh. Colorado regional American cuisine tempts the palate with grilled venison loin with red wine poached pears, grilled buffalo cowboy steak, and pan-roasted Colorado striped bass. Lillian Ross writes regular travel columns for the Denver Rocky Mountain News, edits Colorado travel planners, and writes articles for Colorado-based feature magazines, including Vail Valley Golf.

Deck Dining in the High Country
Mountain dining can be as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate. Great chefs know that presentation and surroundings have as much to do with a meal’s success as the food itself. Maybe that’s why everything tastes so much better in the mountains, where the great outdoors often serves as a spectacular backdrop for a sumptuous repast. Now, that having been said, be advised that there are literally hundreds of restaurants in Colorado’s resort communities, and of those hundreds, scores provide outdoor seating during both summer and winter months. It would be next to impossible to list them all, so we’re going to give you a template and also encourage you to strike out on your own. The world of decks and patios is your oyster, and we wish you bon appetit! In Summit County, if it’s traditional Tex-Mex food and drinks you seek, El Rio on West Main Street in Frisco is the ticket, with great margaritas and a deck that overlooks scenic Ten Mile Creek. A block from the lake and across the street from the Dillon Amphitheatre is the Arapahoe Cafe and Pub in Dillon. It’s known for cozy “cabin dining” and has a spacious deck for summertime meals. In Silverthorne, the quaint little town downstream of the dam, Matteo’s Pub is known for its pizza and deck with views of Buffalo Mountain at the southern end of the Gore Range. Keystone Resort in Summit County is home to numerous first-rate restaurants, among them Kickapoo Tavern in River Run Village. The menu is eclectically Southwestern and offers nightly specials. The large deck overlooks the Snake River. Be sure to take note of the other great dining opportunities at Keystone Resort, including the Alpenglow Stube, the highest-elevation fine dining restaurant in North America (accessed by two gondolas), the elegant Garden Room, rustic (and Four-Diamond) Keystone Ranch and Ski Tip Lodge, a charming bed and breakfast. “There are literally hundreds of restaurants in Colorado’s resort communities, and of those hundreds, scores provide outdoor seating during both summer and winter months.” In the Victorian setting of Breckenridge, it’s difficult to find a restaurant without a great view. But some of the best decks in town belong to Bubba Gump’s at Main Street and Adams Avenue. You have a front row view of the Ten Mile Range, and the menu is pure Forrest Gumption, with lots of seafood options. Just across Adams to the south is Breckenridge Barbecue, where BBQ brisket and pulled pork share menu space with chicken and fish dishes, thick steaks and chops, chili, salads and soups. The deck here has been voted Best in Breckenridge. A short half-block up the hill on Adams is Cafe Alpine, with its unique spin on American favorites for lunch and dinner, a terrific second-floor tapas bar and killer views from its sunny deck. The tapas are designed for “lighter appetites,” but they are as creative as the lunch and dinner menus. Other notable restaurants with good outdoor seating are Mi Casa Mexican Restaurant and Cantina, with its deck overlooking one of Breckenridge’s Blue River ponds, the Whale’s Tail seafood restaurant (great deck for people-watching) and Poirrier’s at the Wellington, a wonderful Cajun restaurant renowned for its bread pudding. Copper Mountain Resort, with its star-spangled views of the Gore and Ten Mile mountain ranges, is another cornucopia of outdoor dining. The patio at J.J.’s Rocky Mountain Tavern at Copper is the place to be on a sunny afternoon or balmy summer evening. Mouth-watering stone-oven pizzas, home-style meals or hearty salads are served at both lunch and dinner. You might opt for the “urban trendy” fare at Indian Motorcycle Café, or perhaps the huge sandwiches, appetizers and specialty drinks served at lunch and dinner will beckon you to the patio at Endo’s Adrenaline Cafe. Copper Mountain has a new restaurant opening, the Swivel, and outdoor seating will be available there as well. Poets have been brought to their knees by the beauty of Vail Valley, and we think the only possible way to improve on it is to add some good food to the moment. The choices are plentiful. At the Blue Moon Bar & Restaurant and Talon’s Deck, located at the top of the Eagle Bahn Gondola, you can dine on a weekend specialty barbecue dinner or vegetarian dish while you drink in the breathtaking sunset over the Rockies.
Lower in elevation but just as scenic is the Bully Ranch Restaurant at Sonnenalp Resort on Vail Road. Deck views of Gore Creek and the Gore Range are spellbinding, and the menu is equally impressive, with specialties including prime rib and steaks, burgers, chicken wraps, baby back ribs, fish and chips and all day munchies. Open for lunch and dinner, Bully Ranch is also known for its vegetarian dishes and its specialty drink, the Mudslide! Back on the mountain is Chap’s Grill & Chophouse at Vail Cascade Resort & Spa. This AAA Four-Diamond steakhouse overlooks Gore Creek, has a classic decor and outstanding wine list and features live entertainment in the lobby lounge. You’ll find game, seafood, grilled entrees and specialties such as portabella fries, smoked pheasant soup and Coriander Crusted Ahi Tuna. In Vail Village, one of the most popular eateries is Pepi’s Restaurant and Bar, where both lunch and dinner are served on the deck. The atmosphere inside is described as “Austrian Gemutlichkeit,” and outside it’s pure Vail magic. Continental cuisine mixes it up with Austrian specialties that include wild game and gourmet fare. If you’re in the mood for pasta and pizza, Vendetta’s in Vail has Northern Italian and then some. It was voted the Number One Ski Bar in Ski magazine, and you can hang on the deck and enjoy libations and a good meal while gazing at Vail Mountain. One of the loveliest settings of all is found at The Wildflower in the Lodge at Vail. Vegetarian and American dishes are served at breakfast and lunch, with seafood and meat presented in a wonderful, imaginative array. And a feast for the eyes is to be had at this acclaimed restaurant, where the Wildflower Terrace affords you incredible hand-painted murals and giant baskets overflowing with flowers all summer long. Enchanting. Patina at the Park Hyatt at Beaver Creek is yet another option for outdoor dining during the summer. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Patina is a casual spot that features Pacific Rim “fused with Southwest,” which makes for an intriguing combination. The deck also offers views of Beaver Creek mountain. Think we’re at the end of the road? Not hardly, although we might be at the end of the rainbow when we hit Aspen. This town simply overflows with views, atmosphere and, of course, food. At Boogie’s Diner in downtown Aspen, you’ll find “Gringo cuisine” in the form of meatloaf, salads, soups, sandwiches, fish and award-winning desserts. There’s an outdoor deck on which you can enjoy your lunch or dinner, too. Definitely not diner fare is Cache Cache on Mill Street, where you’re transported to the French countryside with specialties such as Ossobucco in Marsala Sauce and vegetarian entrees, along with an extensive wine list. Cache Cache means “hide and seek,” but it’s doubtful you’ll be tucking away in the bistro when you can enjoy its signature drink, the Bomb, as well as your dinner outdoors, where there’s ample seating. The Cantina on Main Street is known for its hot food, Tex-Mex style, cool drinks (“any kind of margarita you can imagine”), house specialties and plenty of outdoor seating. Southern barbecue and ribs — even for breakfast — are the Hickory House’s signature dishes, and this Aspen Main Street spot has good views from its patio. One good word sums up The Little Nell on East Durant Avenue in downtown Aspen: Incredible. With the prestigious Relais and Chateau affiliation, AAA’s Five-Diamond Award, Mobil Travel Guide Five-Star designation AND Zagat Survey recognition to its credit, The Little Nell boasts a premiere restaurant, Montagna. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Montagna presents a menu inspired by traditional European cuisines, and you can savor dishes of pheasant, wild game, fish and fresh vegetables. The lovely patio provides a scenic window on the Aspen world. Mezzaluna means “half moon,” but there’s nothing halfway about this Cooper Avenue restaurant. The cuisine is global, Mediterranean with Pacific Rim and Southwestern influences. The menu changes frequently, and there’s a wonderful summertime patio with happy hour. Aspen’s oldest bar and restaurant, the Red Onion Restaurant on Cooper Avenue, is a locals’ favorite for lunch and dinner, with soups, salads, sandwiches and Mexican entrees. Drink specials and “summer spectaculars” are served on the patio during the summer. “Austria in Aspen” can be found at the Wienerstube on East Hyman Avenue, where breakfast, lunch and dinner can be partaken on the patio. Central European dishes mingle with burgers and salads, and daily specials promise to be lively. Restaurant Mogador’s innovative menu incorporates Spanish influences with Southern French and Moroccan. Specialty dishes run the delectable gamut — Chicken Tagine, Black Mussels, Red Wine Duck Confit and Foie Gras. The restaurant is open for dinner only, and there’s a great patio. At the Silvertree Hotel on Fall Lane, Brothers’ Grille is a slopeside restaurant with a breakfast buffet, lunch and dinner available on the deck. It’s traditional American fare, with a daily three-hour happy hour. The Daly Tavern in the Snowmass Inn is a casual place with a deck, and the Grill On The Deck has a menu that features fresh fish, barbecue and salads, with outdoor seating available for lunch and dinner. You want gonzo? The Woody Creek Tavern in Woody Creek is the place for you, with claims to “the best burger in the state,” Mexican specials, dishes using Limousine beef and daily specials. There’s a deck as well, and you might just run into someone famous out there. Our parting words are saved for the Pine Creek Cookhouse, which is situated in the Castle Creek Valley 12 miles from Aspen. This splendid restaurant is accessible only by horse-drawn sleigh or cross-country skis in the winter but by car in the summer. Surrounded by the Elk Mountains with breathtaking views, Pine Creek Cookhouse prides itself on gourmet salads, home-baked goods, wild game dishes and trout. You can dine outdoors in a pristine setting and perhaps catch sight of a few woodland creatures. Now it’s your very enviable position to choose from this list. Our advice? Try them all, and as you savor every morsel of your meal, let your spirit soar with the view. It is, after all, part of the presentation. Kathleen Thomas is a freelance writer living in Hartsel, Colorado.

Aspen/Snowmass The Grande Dame
Dining and Shopping Star-studded Aspen is equally renowned for its dining and shopping as it is for its epic mountains. Without question, some of the planet's best restaurants are in this valley. So many, you may make a return trip solely for the dining experiences. Olives in the St. Regis Aspen, showcases award-winning Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Try the grilled rib eye of beef served on a red wine oxtail braise. Rande Gerber, Cindy Crawford’s husband, owns Whiskey Rocks. The decor features luminous lighting that "makes everyone look beautiful.” Syzygy's Chilean sea bass is to die for; after dinner, the place transforms into a hot jazz club. La Cocina was recognized for mixing the best margaritas in town. Its inexpensive Mexican entrées are served in a casual atmosphere. A favorite local hangout is the Wienerstube, offering a taste of authentic Austria and some of the best breakfasts and lunches in Aspen. And, for tea and snacks, go upstairs to the Explore bookstore; here's where the true Aspen is hidden away. A landmark in Aspen, with its roots planted in the 1950s, is the Crystal Palace, serving dinner and cabaret-style entertainment spoofing today's political scene. Out of the way, but out of this world, at Snowmass, a snowcat takes you to the Lynn Britt Cabin on the slopes for exquisite delights. Over in Castle Creek Valley, a sleigh brings you the final mile to The Pine Creek Cookhouse. Rabbit confit, diver scallops and wild mushroom risotto may be on the menu.
On the way to the cookhouse, stop by Toklat Gallery. Here, you’ll find handcrafted art in all media — Polish tapestries, Zapotec rugs from Mexico, totem poles, pottery and shamans. The multitude of shops in Aspen offer everything from fine European antiques to second hand collectibles. There are 23 art galleries, an equal number of clothing shops, and 20 jewelry shops, each displaying designs unique to the store. At the Aspen Luggage Company, you’ll find anything and everything you need for traveling — except airline tickets, but who needs those when you’re in Aspen/Snowmass? Finally, if you are looking for the Gucci label — or any other designer label — head to one of many world-class shops and name-brand outlets. On the way, you might run into a few celebrities. --Lillian Ross Find more info at AspenSnowmass.com.

Dining on the Wild Side
Sky-high resorts satisfy hunger of the tummy and soul at the same time. By Kathleen Thomas When you hunger for the beauty of the Great Outdoors, nothing satisfies quite like a visit to the Colorado High Country. Under the truest of blue skies, your eyes drink in never-ending mountain vistas. Your ears pick out the tiniest notes of birdsong on the breeze. And in the banquet hall of Creation, your heart fills with gladness, and your soul runs over with a tranquility few other places can impart. All that fresh air and sunshine can also make for a particularly hearty appetite. Why, you might even say you're so hungry you could eat a wild boar. Or an elk. Or a bison. As your very good luck would have it, those are all options at several Colorado resorts as game dishes show up with increasing frequency on fine-dining menus. Naturally, you'll want to check out each resort for yourself, but here is a brief sampling from several destinations, starting with that bastion of famous getaways, Aspen. One especially good choice here is Pine Creek Cookhouse in the Ashcroft Valley. Its setting is cozy and definitely off the beaten track, surrounded by 14,000-foot peaks and accessible by cross-country skis or a horse-drawn sleigh in the winter and by auto in the summer. However you arrive, Executive Chef Kurt Boucher and Chef de Cuisine Richard Triptow make it well worth your while with Grilled Semi-Boneless Quail, Buffalo Burger, Pistachio Crusted Caribou and Muscovy Duck Three Ways. PiÒons in downtown Aspen is another solid bet for game dishes, boasting an appetizer of Braised Duck and Black Truffle Pot Au Feu and dinner choices such as Grilled Muscovy Duck Breast and Sautéed Loin of New Zealand Elk. An Aspen institution is the Hotel Jerome, where Executive Chef Todd Slossberg uses game for a wide range of dishes, even the Chestnut-Crusted Caribou Loin appetizer. Main dishes include Elk Tenderloin and Buffalo Prime Rib. Rave reviews have gone to Gwyn's Aspen, located on Aspen Mountain, where you'll find a hearty Colorado Filet of Elk Tenderloin. And at Conundrum, the Grilled Elk Loin comes with caramelized apples, sweet onions and sugar peas — all with a sun-dried cherry sauce. There's more still in Aspen. Downtown's Crystal Palace serves up a Wild Game Special Selection that, depending on availability, might include elk, antelope, wild boar, caribou and ostrich. Blue Maize offers yet another spin, where you can dig into Buffalo Fajitas. The Brothers' Grille at Snowmass has an intriguing Venison Sausage Pizza. For a bit of "like Mama made" pasta, Aspen's Ajax Tavern has Pan Roasted Quail with Porcini Mushrooms and Spinach Risotto as well as Tavern Made Tagliatelle Bolognese of Venison, Pork and Porcini Mushrooms. And entrées at Guido's run a European gamut, with Les Noisettes de Chevreuil, or Medallions of Elk. In nearby Basalt, the Bistro Basalt has daily specials that include game, seafood, prime rib and gourmet specials. At the Bisteca Toscana in Carbondale, Executive Chef/Owner James Nadell, Chef de Cuisine Kevin Ribich and General Manager/Chef Robert Lafollette have cooked up Penne Salsiccia with Homemade Spicy Wild Boar Sausage as well as Roasted Quail Stuffed with a Wild Boar and Sun-Dried Cherry Stuffing. Also in Carbondale is Six 89, where Italian-meets-southwestern-meets-Asian in a wonderful World Cuisine. Dishes include Fresh Bucatini with Venison Bolognese and Venison Loin in Apple Smoked Bacon. Now, while Aspen's list is obviously extensive, the Glitter Capital of Colorado is not the only "game" in town. The Vail Valley is also a great place for extraordinary meaty meals. Stop by the Tyrolean Inn in Vail, where the appetizers include Grilled Quail and Antelope/Sesame Shrimp Napoleon. Entrées are equally impressive, with Orange Espresso Duck (OK, not technically game but still worth mentioning), Venison Medallions "Forestiere," Blackened Buffalo Strip with Creole spices, Smoked Pheasant Pasta, and Grilled Elk Loin Steak. At Up the Creek Bar and Grill you'll enjoy a menu medley of Italian, French and even Scottish fare, and for game, you can dig into Roasted Caribou or Braised Rabbit. And as American as it comes, Half Moon Saloon in West Vail offers a very savory Elk Stew in a fresh-baked bread bowl. Another Vail eatery with a game signature dish is Hubcap Brewery and Steakhouse, where Colorado Elk is tops on the menu. Southwestern in flair, Bully Ranch at Sonnenalp Resort features a Buffalo Striploin while La Tour's French-American cuisine runs to the likes of Hazelnut Crusted Venison. Pepi's in Vail boasts tableside preparation, with game dishes among its American and Austrian offerings. The aptly named Game Creek Club on Vail Mountain has several game dishes on its menu, starting with an appetizer called Carpaccio of Venison in Pumpkin Seed Oil. No one cuisine dominates here; you can enjoy such Rocky Mountain cuisine as Grilled Venison Loin or choose a southwestern or continental dish. Mountain Grille in Lionshead is a game dish standout with its appetizing Colorado Egg Roll with venison, lamb and pheasant. To stave a bigger hunger, look to the Grille's Colorado Elk Loin. At Vail Cascade, the innovative menu of Executive Chef Matthew Zubrod at Chap's Grill & Chophouse features Buffalo Barley Soup and Smoked Pheasant Soup as well as the signature dish — Chap's Colorado Trio of Lamb, Elk and Antelope. There's also a Colorado Buffalo Sirloin cooked to choice. Though its history is shorter than that of Vail, Beaver Creek is nonetheless a bright and shining star among Rocky Mountain resorts. Splendido at the Chateau is a great place to catch some culinary stardust. Salads include Grilled Quail and porcini mushrooms; game entrées have a dramatic flair, such as the Red Wine Braised Venison Osso Buco.
Grouse Mountain Grill is known for its rustic style, which certainly lends itself to game dishes. An extensive meat menu includes the tantalizing Cranberry Braised Colorado Buffalo Short Ribs, and signature entrées include an Elk Rib Chop. Another fine Beaver Creek village restaurant is Golden Eagle Inn, where creative American cuisine shows up in a variety of dishes that include game, such as a Blackberry-Pommery Mustard Coated Roast Loin of Elk and Rocky Mountain Elk and Bleu Cheese Stuffed Mushrooms. The Park Hyatt Beaver Creek is a favorite resort for its ski in/ski out convenience, as well as for its landmark culinary accomplishments. Hotel Executive Chef Pascal Coudouy has implemented a number of changes for the 2002/03 season, including the family-style setting at the new Bivans restaurant. You'll find a hearty venison stew served at both lunch and dinner, with great game specials featured weekly on the menu — plus an outdoor terrace offering magnificent views of Beaver Creek Mountain. Another addition to the resort is Vue, a French gourmet restaurant, where Chef Coudouy will offer game specials with a European flair during the week. Beaver Creek on-mountain dining experiences offer not only great fare but also exquisite views. Beano's Cabin is one such locale, where you can enjoy Pan Seared Buffalo Carpaccio. SaddleRidge is another lofty fine restaurant with a delightfully blended cuisine. Choose from Greek Style Octopus (wild game to some of us), Grilled Asian Duck Breast, Grilled Wild Boar Chops, Grilled Venison Chop and Mixed Game Burgundy Style — buffalo and elk. Crossing Vail Pass to Summit County is but a short hop and major expansion to your epicurean choices. Copper Mountain lies at the foot of the pass and is home to the intriguingly named Swivel and its unusual fare. Copper says the Swivel, at the base of the American Eagle lift, was "inspired by The Jetsons and offers out-of-this-world soups and stews on a sunny deck at the base of the slopes." George, Jane, the kids and Astro are no doubt gratified to know that house specialties include braised elk stew. At Keystone Resort, the Alpenglow Stube, billed as "the highest fine dining experience in North America," is both a geographical and gastronomic pinnacle with the Duet of Venison and Rocky Mountain Trout entrée. On very solid ground at the base of the mountain is the Keystone Ranch, a splendid 1930s homestead that's been converted to a fine dining setting. You can partake of Venison Lunettes, Applewood Roast Plains Pheasant and the Ranch House Chef's Table, a nightly special of seafood and game. Just up the road from Keystone is historic Ski Tip Lodge, a bed and breakfast with a gourmet restaurant that serves a four-course dinner that might include Sage and Maple Cured Wild Boar Chop. At Silverheels at the Ore House in Frisco, you'll find game dishes as a nightly special. For instance, Executive Chef Bob Starehow and Chef de Cuisine Bruce Ganoung might prepare buffalo, antelope, elk, red deer and duck in southwestern-style fajitas, but there are other variations as well. In historic Breckenridge, your choices in dining are plentiful, but a great start is the Hearthstone Restaurant for its Slow Braised King's Canyon Bison Shank and Granola Crusted Elk Chop. You'll also want to visit the Briar Rose Restaurant, where wild game rules in a wonderful Victorian ambiance. Airy Café Alpine is definitively eclectic. Offering a mix of southwestern, Greek, Asian and Italian cuisine, the delectable entrées include Crispy Sweet and Sour Quail and Texas Rubbed Grilled Venison Medallions. With a French flair, Pierre's Riverwalk Café has game specialties by Chef Pierre Luc, and the Breckenridge Cattle and Fish Co. overlooking Maggie Pond also offers dishes on the wild side. A few hundred feet above town, just below heaven, you'll find the Top of the World Restaurant in the Lodge and Spa at Breckenridge and a menu by Executive Chef Rob Trumbo that includes Grilled Buffalo New York and a Colorado Surf and Turf of Grilled Elk Medallions and Seared Rocky Mountain Trout. So now that you're in Colorado, take the time to fully appreciate the exquisite beauty of our mountains. Inhale slowly and deeply of our Rocky Mountain rare air and listen to the rhapsody of life all around you. As you unravel the mysteries of pine forest and freestone river, remember one thing: When you're so hungry you can eat a wild boar, our resorts are sure to please.

A Taste of High Country
By Lillian Ross photos by j. kevin foltz Perhaps you’re one of the growing trend of resort travelers who chooses a destination based on more than just depth of snow, challenging runs or summer amenities. If haute cuisine enters into your decision, you’re not alone. Without you realizing it, resort chefs compete quietly for your business, especially if you’ve dined at their restaurants at least once. Remembering your outstanding dining experience, and wanting to repeat it, is a subconscious choice to return. Extraordinary cuisine has become the norm at Colorado resorts. You just hope your visit is long enough to sample the exquisite presentations at award-winning restaurants, many of which boast chefs honored at New York’s James Beard House. ASPEN Aspen has as many outstanding restaurants as it has celebrities. Here, dining has evolved into a fine art. The Ajax Tavern is the sister restaurant to Napa’s famous Tra Vigne. Thanks to the masterful cooking of young chef Dena Marino, this eatery at the base of the gondola is a favorite, offering the town’s finest fare. Pinons is an upscale locale featuring elegant game dishes complemented by jaw-dropping views of Aspen Mountain. Cache Cache offers French food in a lively see-and-be-seen dining room. The grilled salmon is divine, served with spinach, tomato fondue, basil and olive puree. The Century Room in the Hotel Jerome is reminiscent of history from 1889. Butter-poached Maine lobster and stuffed loin of veal with scallops fill a room draped in burgundy velvet and Italian tapestries. Olives, in the sophisticated St. Regis Aspen, showcases award-winning Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. This is the Aspen branch of Todd English’s Boston restaurant. New this year: Umbria. Manrico Cashmere in Aspen is slated to open an authentic Italian trattoria upstairs from the cashmere boutique, serving up Umbrian regional cuisine. BEAVER CREEK This quietly elegant resort down valley from Vail has "superb taste" written all over it. The Grouse Mountain Grill’s food and decor is ranked as "extraordinary to perfection" in the Zagat Survey for Top Colorado Restaurants, and has been named one of the top five restaurants in the state. While in the Pines Lodge, overlooking all of Beaver Creek, you’ll enjoy bacon-wrapped breast of pheasant, or jumbo lobster with sweet potato ravioli. The Grouse Mountain Grill has been honored by Wine Spectator magazine for having one of the most outstanding wine lists. Perched on a hillside sits the Chateau, which houses the remarkable Splendido, a contemporary American restaurant in an Old World setting. Italian linens, French silverware and German crystal are foils for creatively presented Maine sea scallops, mesquite grilled elk or Dover sole a la Meuniere. Victorian-styled Mirabelle has run out of room to display its awards. Daniel Joly holds the prestigious Master Chef of Belgium award. A DiRoNA awards recipient, a top rating in Zagat, and an award of excellence from Wine Spectator magazine add to the reasons you need to experience its light Belgian cuisine, its calamari casserole or Colorado lamb chops. Inside the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek, you'll find Vue, a great addition to the Park Hyatt's culinary offerings. The French-inspired gourmet restaurant provides an intimate atmosphere and offers breathtaking views of Beaver Creek Village. The Beaver Creek Chophouse is a newer resort addition, popular with guests and locals. A "must" for steak lovers, spiced with a martini and cigar bar.
BRECKENRIDGE Offering tastes for every palate and every purse, this restored Victorian mining town boasts more than a hundred restaurants. Those that stand out above the rest include Cafe Alpine, unquestionably one of the state’s best, featuring Continental American dining. Try the olive, fresh mozzarella and arugula-stuffed chicken with pine-nut risotto. The chocolate mousse tower is a dramatic dessert event. Berries fill a column of white and dark chocolate, topped with chocolate lightning bolts; it’s almost 12 inches high. The Hearthstone serves its award-winning cuisine in the charm of a two-story Victorian landmark. Surprises await, such as garlic and granola-crusted elk chop with a Marion blackberry demi-glace; prime rib Neptune, a 10-oz. cut with blue crab, tiger shrimp and oliviase; and a fresh cut Ahi tuna medallion, spice-rubbed, served with a sweet soy reduction and plated with a rice noodle cake. KEYSTONE It isn’t every resort that places its best restaurant at the summit of a mountain. Reaching the Alpenglow Stube requires riding two gondolas to 11,444-ft. Here, North America’s highest gourmet restaurant offers exquisite alpine dining with a Bavarian flair. Its legendary six course culinary extravaganza might include pinecone pate, duck foie gras with pumpernickel soaked in kirshwasser brandy, loin of venison rolled in fresh herbs and wrapped in pancetta, or black-eyed pea and cranberry quinoa raviolis. The Keystone Ranch Restaurant, on one of the resort’s golf courses, is an elegantly restored 1930s log homestead. Proud of its AAA Four Diamond rating, the Ranch is unique to outstanding Colo-rado cuisine. You might choose maple grilled Muscovy breast with sweet po-tato spaetzle. Tempting entrees include grilled range-fed veal or Ute Pass pheasant. Desserts are purely sinful. The historic Ski Tip Lodge is a former 1880s stagecoach stop, now a charming and intimate country inn with an award-winning restaurant. You might be offered wild hare, buffalo and venison, Rocky Mountain freshwater bass, or ruby red trout with an orange and ancho chili glaze. Ski Tip Lodge was the first skiing guest ranch in Colorado; its history permeates your visit and your dining experience. VAIL Who would have thought that a sheep pasture deep in the Colorado Rockies could evolve into a world-class resort with international flair? The melding of languages and fashions naturally spilled over into tastes and the desire for total cuisine diversity. Larkspur offers a dining adventure of multicultural style that is almost im-possible to categorize. This profoundly elegant American brasserie projects a gourmet twist. You may find wild king salmon, Alaskan halibut, free-range chicken or brick-oven roasted lamb sirloin, each a sensory treat of generous proportions. Zagat gives Larkspur its top rating. Perhaps the finest contemporary French cuisine in the Vail Valley will be found at La Tour. Choose champagnes by the glass to accompany Russian caviar (Beluga, Osetra and Sevruga). Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, and honored by James Beard House, La Tour’s menu items include classic French onion soup, diver-caught sea scallops, sweet potato ravioli and crème brulee flambé. Game Creek is nestled in a forested grove in the Game Creek Bowl on the backside of Lionshead at Vail. The European-style chalet is reached by gondola, followed by a ride in a snowcat-driven sleigh. Colorado regional American cuisine tempts the palate with grilled venison loin with red wine poached pears, grilled buffalo cowboy steak, and pan-roasted Colorado striped bass. When nothing but a mouthwatering steak or fine cut of prime rib will do, head for Chaps Grill & Chophouse down the road in Cascade Village. It’s the last word when you want the best of the West. Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who writes weekly travel stories for The Denver Post, and travel stories for Colorado Expressions Magazine.

Raising the Bar
The word “Park” now precedes the name of Beaver Creek’s luxurious Hyatt Resort and Spa. Only 17 properties bearing the Hyatt name have received the distinction of becoming a Park Hyatt hotel. One, in Colorado’s Vail Valley, is also the first Hyatt Resort to receive the designation. Getting used to its new name, the Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa is at your service. And, service is one of the primary criteria in becoming a Park Hyatt. Already the consummate epitome of luxury in Beaver Creek, the hotel raises its own bar to offer you an even higher level of service, attention and exquisite pampering. In the words of Scott Miller, president of Hyatt Hotels Corporation, “It is fitting that this hotel should receive the Park Hyatt name. It is everything we look for in a ‘Park’ property, with service completely focused on the guests and their needs. Its attention to detail creates an unforgettable experience.” What does this mean to you? If you’ve already chosen to stay here, your decision was possibly made because you enjoyed a previous stay. Or, perhaps, because you seek out hotels based on a feeling of luxury, beautifully appointed guestrooms, outstanding amenities and award-winning restaurants, wine and cuisine. You need look no further. GRACIOUS ELEGANCE — A PARK HYATT SIGNATURE You’ve heard it before: little things mean a lot. It’s the Park Hyatt’s little touches that make your stay extraordinary. From the moment you step into the lobby vestibule, you can feel the difference between this and any other hotel. You are welcomed, acknowledged and assisted to the reception area, where your registration is performed in a gracious, personal manner. The rough-hewn wood and sandstone lobby of the Park Hyatt, with its antler chandelier, wall-sized fireplaces and alcoves with overstuffed furnishings and rich earth tones, captures the essence of Beaver Creek’s old world elegance. You are immediately immersed in its rustic warmth and unassuming grace. $8.1 MILLION ROOM RENOVATION Your room or suite reflects the meticulous touches of last year’s $8.1 million renovation. Each of the Park Hyatt’s 273 guest rooms received a metamorphosis; windows, wall coverings, furniture and bedspreads now embrace warm earth tones. Linens are sumptuously soft, covering oversized beds, and down pillows are designed for your personal comfort. Bathrobes, appointments and accessories let you feel totally pampered. For your convenience, each 400-square-foot guest room features a small refrigerator, coffee maker, a safe and computer access. “With every detail attended to, this renovation has placed us exactly where we want to be. The inviting decor and our host of personal service touches offer unparalleled luxury,” claimed Park Hyatt general manager Robert Dallain. The hotel’s e-village computer acts as your own personal concierge, allowing you to check on weather, make reservations for dining at the hotel’s award-winning Patina restaurant or any of Beaver Creek’s resort activities — horseback riding, hot air balloon rides, golf, mountain biking, music festivals, guided fishing trips, whitewater rafting, four-wheel jaunts, and yes, ice skating in the winter and summer months. You can also reserve time for yourself in Park Hyatt’s amazing spa.
ALLEGRIA — LUXURY FIT FOR A GOD OR GODDESS Allegria, the hotel’s almost indescribable, world-class 20,000-square foot spa, is the largest in the Vail Valley. Recognized by the media as Colorado’s best spa, Allegria was designed with Feng Shui influences for your total relaxation and well being. Give yourself completely to the pampering of an herbal and fresh fruit body scrub, an aromatherapy facial or a hot stone massage, which takes the classic Swedish massage to the next level. Try Ashiatsu, an ancient form of bodywork that applies foot pressure to your back. You can even arrange for a couple’s massage. Allegria’s 20 treatment rooms let you enjoy exotic detoxifying wraps and water therapy. Take time to work out in the spa’s state-of-the-art health center with its Cybex and Precor fitness machines. Then plunge into an outdoor pool (which you can access indoors), or relax in one of six steaming whirlpools. Of course, there’s an excellent nail and hair salon. FRENCH FUSION CUISINE When you’re born in the south of France, and you spend two decades learning European culinary excellence, the creativity you bring to a restaurant’s cuisine is coveted. We’re describing Executive Chef Pascal Coudouy, who introduces French fusion cuisine to the hotel’s Patina restaurant menu. What the French can do with herbs and spices is legendary. Chef Coudouy’s presentations enabled the Patina to receive Wine Spectator Magazine’s Award of Excellence and the Zagat Survey’s ranking as one of the Top 100 Restaurants in the United States. Dinner at Patina is unforgettable. Perhaps you’ll choose to begin your evening with selections of fresh fish and shellfish from The Raw Bar — including Long Island oysters, Little Neck clams and Beluga caviar — or an appetizer such as fresh jumbo lump crab meat salad with asparagus and creamy sesame Aioli. The acorn squash and sage soup is to die for, as is Patina’s salad — diced tomatoes, red onions, bacon, Gorgonzola cheese and garlic granola tossed with baby greens in a lemon herb dressing. Vegetarians can choose a seared tofu and scallion cake with mushrooms and tomato, or a roast Chilean sea bass with fennel oyster mushrooms, basil and tomato. Meat lovers will gravitate to the herb crusted Colorado rack of lamb served with asparagus and shitake mushroom risotto and a rosemary jus. Desserts are delectable — a warm chocolate cake is served with pistachio ice cream and fresh raspberries, and the traditional vanilla crème brulee is accented with fresh berries in vanilla syrup. The Patina wine selections can be made by the glass or half bottles; your choices range from an Aria Estate Brut from Spain to the divine 1997 Opus One from Napa Valley. On less formal occasions, the cafe serves sandwiches and snacks and will prepare picnic baskets for your day in the hills. Watch the skaters on the year-round ice rink from your table at the Overlook. The Patina terrace is a special slice of heaven in the summer and fall sun. Sunday Brunch here is an absolute delight as well, and your Sunday dinner may also be enjoyed on the patio. ACCOLADES Park Hyatt Beaver Creek Resort and Spa has received many accolades from the esteemed media. These include Conde Nast Readers Choice Award for five years, Gourmet Magazine’s #1 Hotel for Skiing/Winter Sports in the World, and Travel + Leisure’s Top 50 Hotels in the World. For information, call (970) 949-1234, or visit www.beavercreek.hyatt.com. Lillian Ross writes regular travel columns for the Denver Rocky Mountain News, edits Colorado travel planners, and writes articles for Colorado-based feature magazines, including Vail Valley Golf.

Summit County
Heartbeat of Colorado By Lillian Ross The Spanking New Copper Mountain Resort Rarely does Mother Nature sculpt a ski mountain so perfectly. Did she really know that advanced ability skiers and riders prefer their terrain in one area, intermediates in another, and beginners off to one side so they can learn without intimidation? Well, she laid the groundwork, and the mountain's trail designers shared the spotlight. Copper Mountain has it all. With a perfect mountain stretching up over 12,000 feet with 125 trails and powder bowls in back, it is the envy of competing resorts. But, until recently, something was missing. It lacked a village worthy of its award-winning mountain. Enter Intrawest Corporation, the Canadian destination resort group that waves a magic wand, and voilà — a new, vibrant, sexy village emerges. Intrawest has a knack for matching a mountain's personality and demographics with its new village plan, and in Copper's case, the match is perfect. There are clusters of pedestrian-only areas, European in feel and eclectic by design. The one word to describe Copper's new village is “dynamic.” (The Village at Copper). Condominiums fill the upper floors in the village, while at plaza level a vibrant mix of shops, restaurants and nightclubs spills forth excitement. The Swivel, serving amazing soups and stews, Endo's Adrenaline Cafe and Indian Motorcycle Clothing Company give you a taste of the new flavor of the resort. The West Lake Market — a family nitch with ice skating, picnic areas, a paint-your-own-pottery shop and kids' play structure — will be opening soon. Here, too, adults will find Pravda, a Russian-style dance club bringing new excitement. Larkin's Cross, a traditional Irish pub, and Iguana, Mon, a Caribbean-Mexican spot serving burritos and wraps to those on the go will add to the flavor. The Copper Mountain Athletic Club is one of the finest fitness facilities in Summit County. An Olympic-sized lap pool, weight room, state-of-the-art machines and classes for all abilities draws both county residents and resort guests. Appealing to the child in each of us is Copper's tubing hill, served by its own surface lift. The resort rounds out its on snow/off mountain activities with snowshoe tours into the forest, snowmobiling tours in the backcountry, guided fly fishing tours and scenic sleigh rides. The sleigh, with its bell-laden draft horses, brings you to dinner on the mountain in a cozy heated tent. A western dinner with all the trimmings is served while a real cowboy and his trusty guitar serenade you. Keystone Resort — All Things to All People When miners explored the hillsides near Keystone, they looked deeper and deeper into the mountains in their quest for the mother lode. So, too, a century later, ski mountain designers weren't satisfied with the classic runs on one mountain. They delved deeper, opening a second mountain, and yet a third offering a smorgasbord of terrain — all things to all people. The first was Keystone, with groomed cruising boulevards, terrain park and halfpipe, and dreamy ribbons of lighted night skiing. Next came North Peak — peeking up behind Keystone, it shows off its legendary bump runs with names like Ambush and Bullet. (Intermediates, relax; there's terrain for you, too). The third and final mountain is The Outback. With 800 acres of glady terrain and bowls, it offers pure nirvana for accomplished skiers and riders. From the toddler on skis for the first time, to the experienced skier who wants to polish his style in the Mahre Training Centers (run by Olympic medallists Phil and Steve Mahre), Keystone Resort obliges. For snowboarders learning to ride, taking air, and everything in between, help is available in the Snowboard School. Keystone Resort has a dual personality. The original Keystone Village is a Currier & Ives portrait with lighted trees atop a large ice skating lake, surrounded by condominiums and shopping plazas. River Run Village is its contemporary counterpart. Here, at the foot of the gondola, is a pedestrian-style neighborhood with condominium homes rising above shops and restaurants.
When you choose a winter resort, you want one that offers a full array of activities — cross country skiing, horse-drawn sleigh rides, snowshoeing, ice skating and snowmobiling. Keystone offers all of the above, then sweetens your choices with stargazing workshops, wine appreciation seminars, ecology snowshoe walks, hockey clinics, skate skiing (taking the Nordic disciplines up a notch), and full moon tours at the cross-country center. Experienced skinny skiers can see the moon between the peaks of Keystone and North Peak. Kids love to listen to Redtail, the Mountain Man, tell true tales about the West while sitting around an open fire. Of course, hot chocolate is part of the evening. The plazas at both villages are filled with a variety of shops — from Christy Sports answering every athlete's needs to Gorsuch, where you'll want to covet all its impeccable fashions. Family dining choices are also found at both villages. Ida Belle's "mountain Mexican" fare, and the Bighorn Steakhouse with its extensive salad bar, are Keystone Village landmarks. The Great Northern and Kickapoo Taverns in River Run Village are lunch and dinner favorites. But Keystone is best known for cuisine that will bring you back solely for a dining vacation. Ski Tip Lodge is a delightful, restored stagecoach stop from the 1860s. Now a B&B, sophisticated American dinners are served year-round and desserts may be enjoyed in the library. Keystone Ranch, on the resort's golf course, is a DiRoNA award recipient and AAA Four Diamond restaurant. Six course gourmet dinners are served with international flair, in the warmth of a restored log residence. The Alpenglow Stube, at 11,444 feet, is the highest gourmet restaurant in the United States. You're greeted with fur-lined slippers following your ride on two gondolas to reach this elegant, European-style restaurant. Signature dishes include Pine Cone Pate, Wild Game Grill and Stube Crème Brûleé. Find more about Summit County in the Activitites Section.

Redefined Elegance: The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch
By Jane Stebbins Photos Courtesy of The Ritz-Carlton Elegant, luxurious, ornate, posh, exquisite — these words just aren’t enough to describe The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch, nestled in a high-alpine valley at the base of Beaver Creek Mountain, just west of Vail. The design and architecture of the resort was inspired by the grand lodges of the West, such as those in Yellowstone, Glacier and Yosemite National Parks. Designers worked to bring the essence of the forest inside by using native materials, such as stone and hewn logs and timbers — harvested only from dead trees — to blend the structure into its mountain surroundings. Details can be seen in the forged iron, dry-stacked rock, dormer windows, log balconies and covered porches. The interior is complemented with wood and leather, serving as an extension of the wilderness surrounding the lodge. And nearly all of the guest rooms were designed to offer panoramic views of the surrounding Rocky Mountains. The 72,000-sq.-ft. ballroom on the main floor offers meeting rooms for those away on business trips; a “Fly-Fishing Library,” where visitors can recline with a cocktail while enjoying oil paintings and Ansel Adams photographs; and the great room, whose main feature is a towering, breathtaking, three-story stone fireplace. To incorporate a bit of local lore, the hotel’s meeting rooms are named after five of the original bachelors who settled the narrow valley in the early 1900s: John Anderson, Gunder “Gundy” Berg, Ed Howard, Charley Mays and John Mertz. Anderson’s historic cabin still stands around the corner from The Ritz-Carlton on Daybreak Ridge; almost 100 years later, powerful executives discuss international mergers and hold conventions in rooms named after him and his hard-bitten buddies. The hotel itself features 237 guest rooms, each appointed with décor designed to reflect the nature of the Rocky Mountains: twig-like handles on drawers, pine cone and foliage accents and sculptured lamps that depict local wildlife. Seventy-seven guest rooms feature fireplaces to add to the cozy lodge ambience. “We’ve really tried to appropriate the look and feel of the Rocky Mountains,” says public relations director Kristin Yantis. “We’ve drawn on the elements of the wilderness around us to create the look and feel inside the hotel.”
The Ritz, of course, is all about luxury. Standard amenities include Frette linens, plush terry robes and marble bathrooms. Guestrooms feature writing desks, Internet access, and computer and fax hookups. The eighth floor is reserved for Club Level guests, where private concierges anticipate members’ needs. In addition, five food and beverage presentations are available throughout the day in the exclusive Club Level lounge. Members of The Bachelor Gulch Club receive an array of amenities, including ski passes good at all Vail Resorts’ mountains, access to the spa and fitness center, private on-mountain lunch service at Zach’s Cabin, first access to powder and freshly groomed runs, and a club concierge featuring social events and private ski and snowboard lessons. It’s the redefined elegance, service and details that set The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch apart from other luxury accommodations. These details include the tub in The Ritz-Carlton suite that features a small fireplace at the end to keep a bather’s toes warm. Or the technology butler who’s on call to help guests having trouble with their computers. Or Bachelor, the resident Labrador retriever who guests can “reserve” for hikes through aspen-lined trails in the area. After a long hike or a day on the slopes, there is nothing more relaxing than a few hours in the spa. The resort's 21,000-sq.-ft. facility features 19 treatment rooms, a rock-lined, co-ed grotto and a lazy river-shaped hot tub. The men’s and women’s hot and cold plunge areas are lined with rocks to give soakers the feel of a secluded mountain cave. Three restaurants offer dining ranging from casual to elegant. The Daybreak Deli serves quick snacks for those on the go, and Remington's features gourmet mountain cuisine with an indigenous menu that reflects the flavors of Colorado. The Mountainside Terrace, a year-round bar and grill, serves light American fare, perfect for those with families in tow. Families are not forgotten amidst all this luxury. The resort offers programs designed for kids at its 1,500-sq.-ft. The Ritz Kids® center, including the Slope Savvy program for young skiers and a wildlife concierge who takes guests on field trips to learn about the surrounding environment. Activities abound year-round, as well. Although arguably best known for its six months of champagne snow that blankets the 1,650-acre mountain, Bachelor Gulch also offers preferred tee times at two new 18-hole championships courses at the Red Sky Golf Club, fly fishing, whitewater rafting, hiking, mountain biking, nature tours, shopping, four-wheel drive tours and cultural events in the spring and summer months. For information or reservations at The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch, contact a travel professional or call 800-576-5582. For additional information on the Bachelor Gulch Club Membership, contact the Membership Office at (970) 845-2316. Jane Stebbins is a reporter for the Summit Daily News in the High Country of Colorado, where she bikes, rows, skis and hikes. She lives in Breckenridge with her husband, John, and daughter, Erin.

The Rebuilding Boom
Colorado’s so-called “ski towns” have grown from winter-only resorts to solid year-round resort communities that attract millions of visitors and thousands of new part- and full-time residents each year. Although successful, these resorts are not resting on their laurels; they’re in a continual process of renewal and rejuvenation. One way in which they do this is by renovating and rebuilding everything, from single structures to entire villages. In Breckenridge, for example, Main Street’s southern entry used to be dominated by the aging Bell Tower Mall. Not any more. That complex was demolished to make room for Main Street Station, a residential/retail “resort within a resort” that was designed to complement the ambiance of historic Main Street. At build out, Main Street Station will include more than 150 wholly-owned condominium residences, 51 interval ownership residences of the Hyatt Main Street Station, an owners’ club, and approximately 33,000 square feet of retail space and restaurants. "At the base of the Golden Peak ski runs, Vail Resorts replaced its nearly 40-year-old day lodge with a dramatic new structure that incorporates skier services, restaurants, a private club and luxury penthouses." The 82 condominiums of the first phase have already sold out, according to Dennis Clauer of East West Real Estate. The 75 residences of the second and final phase were expected to be offered in the fall of 2001. In addition, more than half of the Hyatt’s interval ownership residences have been sold. The remaining units range from $20,000 to $300,000 for a 1/20 ownership. Among the many retailers and services that have committed to Main Street Station are Christy Sports, Copper Fox Home Furnishings, East West Real Estate and a variety of restaurants and boutiques. Over the mountain in Vail, numerous restorations and renovations have been taking place. At the base of the Golden Peak ski runs, Vail Resorts replaced its nearly 40-year-old day lodge with a dramatic new structure that incorporates skier services, restaurants, a private club and luxury penthouses. In neighboring Lionshead, The Antlers at Vail is leading the way in the redevelopment of that base area. Its recent $17 million renovation included 23 additional condominiums, the first in Lionshead in 20 years. General manager Rob Levine said that 14 have already been sold and the remaining nine range in price from approximately $700,000 (two bedrooms) to $1.4 million (four bedrooms). Then there is the total or near total rebuilding of villages. One of the most ambitious, the $230 million Aspen Highlands Village, is being built by Hines Resorts. The core of the new village is a central plaza, surrounded by numerous lodging accommodations, a day lodge, amenities, shops, restaurants and services. The crown jewel of the village’s residential component is the recently opened Ritz-Carlton Club, a posh property comprised of 73 two- and three-bedroom private residences ranging in price from $160,000 to nearly $500,000 for a 1/12th membership. At press time, about 250 memberships had been sold. The village also features 31 large townhomes, 10 of which have already sold. Mike Jashinski of Aspen Land and Homes said that the remainder are about 6,000 square feet each and range in price from $4.2 to $6.2 million. He also noted that 30 of the village’s 31 home sites have sold, many of which are ski in/ski out, but that there are a few resales still available, ranging from $1.6 million to $4.2 million.
Another base village renovation is also continuing at Copper Mountain Resort as part of a $450-million resort development program. Intrawest Corp., the Vancouver, British Columbia-based company that acquired Copper Mountain Resort in 1997, has the stated goal of making the base village as exciting as the ski mountain it serves. The heart of the community, the area between West Lake and the base of the ski mountain, consists of a collection of five new condominium complexes and pedestrian corridors lined with shops, markets, galleries, cafes, restaurants and nightlife. "The core of the new village is a central plaza, surrounded by numerous lodging accommodations, a day lodge, amenities, shops, restaurants and services." Four of the five condominium complexes have sold out, according to Ron Barnes, director of real estate sales and marketing for Copper Mountain Real Estate, Inc. He noted that resales vary from $270,900 to $806,900 for units ranging from one to three bedrooms. Passage Point, the fifth complex, offers residences ranging from studios to three-bedroom homes, selling for $210,900 to $791,000. And now comes word that Intrawest has been chosen to do the same at Snowmass Village... That, coupled with the creation of such new base villages as Bachelor Gulch on Beaver Creek Mountain and River Run (Keystone Resort’s second base village) ensure that the dynamism that has characterized Colorado mountain resorts continues to flourish. Longtime Vail resident Don Berger has covered the resort industry for more than 25 years. The editor of Vail-Beaver Creek Magazine and Rocky Mountain Golf Magazine, his work has appeared in numerous regional and national publications.

High Country Ranches
By Don Berger Photos by Dann Coffey “Western Colorado is a beautiful place and the best way to fully experience our western traditions is to be a part of the finer ranches that have helped shape those traditions,” according to Dick Kesler, who heads Slifer Smith & Frampton Real Estate’s Mountain Ranch Properties division. Specializing in ranch sales since the mid 1980s, Kesler has been involved in the sale of more than 85,000 deeded acres, one of which represented approximately seven percent of the total amount of private land sold in Eagle County. Ranch sales are unlike any other in the real estate market, and Kesler says that market is changing rapidly here in Colorado. There’s a growing scarcity of “trophy ranches,” he says, which he defines as ranches that provide buyers with a strategic location — National Forest or Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land, year round running streams and rivers ("live" water) with fly fishing, contiguous deeded acreage with a nice balance of meadows, forested areas, hay ground and snow capped mountain views, all within one hour of a regional airport. Tim Casey at Breckenridge-based Mountain Marketing Associates concurs. He has sold most of the ranches in Summit County’s Blue River Valley over the last 25 years. He and Kesler acknowledge that most of the “trophy” ranches in the immediate vicinity of resort areas were developed as golf course communities and for other resort-related purposes long ago. But not too far from major Colorado Rocky Mountain resorts — some within an hour — are pristine ranches that occasionally become available. In Casey’s case, many of these are about an hour’s drive north of Breckenridge in the Kremmling area of Grand County. For Kesler, they are farther west, past Glenwood Springs (which is about 45 minutes from the Vail/Beaver Creek area). One of his most recent sales was the Okenala Ranch, about seven miles west of Glenwood Springs. The 540-acre spread was sold for $6.5 million. Another was the 775-acre Table Rock Ranch, less than 45 minutes northwest of Vail. That ranch went for $7,715,000. Nearby, the 148-acre Yarmony Ranch recently went on the market for $3,395,000. According to Kesler, current available ranches range in price from $825,000 to $9,200,000. Casey has observed that current buyers are slightly more cautious in today’s economic climate. “Yet, if they see something they like, they are still willing to step up and write a check because land is tangible,” he says. “It’s often nicer to have a piece of dirt in your portfolio versus a piece of paper.” Kesler explains with relief that the current profile of ranch buyers has changed very little. “Ranch buyers today are looking for a place that offers the opportunity to enjoy a different lifestyle,” he says. “The ranch becomes a gathering place for the family, a place where everyone can come together to enjoy the activities and expanse of the west. Add wildlife, good horses, extraordinary scenery and you have the ingredients of a great lifestyle.” "It's still very pleasing to see what a majority of individuals do with their ranches," he adds. "Most people are very interested in preserving the land, either through their own private means or through conservation easements. Today’s ranch buyers are excellent stewards of the land." Through habitat improvement, streambed enhancement and careful grazing practices, most ranches are excellent examples of environmental sensitivity and sound business practices.
Both Kesler and Casey agree that the classic Colorado ranch appeals to several types of purchasers. “One is the resort second-home owner who may have been coming to the resorts for years and who now are realizing a long-held, somewhat romantic aspiration of owning a real Colorado ranch,” says Kesler. “At the same time, they may want to stay relatively close to the resorts and all of their recreational amenities. They may even want to keep their home or condo in Vail, or Breckenridge or Aspen, using their ranch as a family retreat regardless of the time of year.” If desired, such an owner could continue the harvesting of the hay crop and maybe even lease some of the ranch land to cattle owners. Another potential buyer is the serious equestrian. “Some of these ranches are very suitable for horse people because so many have an abundance of suitable terrain,” explains Kesler, an avid horse enthusiast himself. “You need a sizable amount of flat terrain for corrals, arenas and training.” Ideally, they also offer immediate access to several wilderness trails for those who like to ride. Those with easy access to public lands make these ranches attractive to another type of purchaser as well — the entrepreneur who may want to use the ranch as a recreational resort offering a variety of traditional Colorado outdoor activities. Rafting, fishing, horseback riding, tennis and cookouts are but a few of the activities for which such a ranch could be well suited. Hunting is also possible as deer and elk are plentiful in the adjacent BLM lands. To enhance the western ambiance of the resort, some cattle could be kept on the ranch. Taking this concept one step further, the ranch could offer overnight lodging or become a full-scale dude ranch. Both its access to public land and the close proximity to a regional airport — such as those in Eagle County, Rifle, Grand Junction, Gunnison and Montrose, to mention a few — are definite plusses for the resort option. And the closeness of major resorts could appeal to vacationers who want some variety during their Colorado vacation. Yet another option is to parcel the land into “ranchettes.” Under Colorado and some Colorado county laws, this type of property could offer parcels of 35 or more acres without going through formal subdivision regulations. Both Kesler and Casey note, however, that the vast majority of today’s buyers keep the ranches in tact. Regardless of how these ranches are eventually used, they offer purchasers a rare opportunity to own a bone fide piece of Colorado’s western heritage. Don Berger, a longtime Vail resident, is editor of Rocky Mountain Golf Magazine and Vail-Beaver Creek Magazine, and a veteran real estate reporter.

Fractional Ownership in the Rockies
Fractional — or interval — ownership has come a long way since the “time-share” days of the 1970s and ’80s. In fact, today big names such as Hyatt, Ritz-Carlton, Sheraton, Four Seasons, Westin, Marriott, Disney, Ramada and Radisson have fractional ownership properties. Overall, the industry has seen an increase of more than 400 percent in the 1990s alone. One reason highly respected companies have entered fractional ownership is that a high-end market has evolved over the years. “Many of these buyers can afford any type of vacation home they desire, but don’t want the headaches or expense of maintaining these homes 52 weeks a year,” says Chuck Madison of East West Partners, which has developed several such properties in Beaver Creek and Breckenridge. “This is especially true for the increasing number of people who have previously purchased multiple vacation homes and found they could not cost-justify the limited use of their homes. As well, they do not like being tied down to one single destination.” “Our purchasers see fractional ownership as a viable alternative to traditional real estate,” Madison continues. “They are coming here for only two or three weeks a year, so they don’t want to pay $500,000 to $1 million for a traditional property. But they do want value, equity and the other benefits of second-home ownership.” He noted that unlike early time-share properties, most of today’s fractional ownership properties offer deeded ownership complete with title policies. It’s an ownership that can be passed down through the generations in perpetuity or resold like general real estate, often through traditional brokers. There are a growing number of high-end fractional ownership properties in the resorts served by Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express. Among “brand” names are the Hyatt, Ritz-Carlton and Sheraton. Then there are the so-called “boutique” properties, such as the Vail Mountain Lodge & Spa and the Austria Haus in Vail Village; the Poste Montane, St. James and Park Plaza in Beaver Creek Village; and The Snowmass Club Private Residence Resort in Snowmass. Not surprisingly, today’s purchasers also have a broader range of options for ownership. In the old days, time-shares were usually sold in one-week blocks. Now, because many purchasers regard their fractional properties as virtual second homes, options include 1/7th, 1/12th, 1/20th and a number of other ownership variations. In Beaver Creek Village, for example, the Hyatt Mountain Lodge offers mostly 1/20th shares, St. James Place and Poste Montane offer weekly shares, and Park Plaza offers five-week shares exclusively. In Vail Village, the creek side Vail Mountain Lodge & Spa (formerly the Vail Athletic Club) features a limited number of fractional ownership residences, each offering four-week segments (two fixed in winter, one fixed in summer, and one floating in spring or fall) with an average price of $275,000. In the case of the slope side Antlers in Vail’s Lionshead, a one-quarter share of a two-bedroom condominium costs about $220,000. You can also buy multiple blocks at most fractional properties; that is, you can purchase more than one ownership. In addition, you get a greater variety of floor plans — from studios and one-bedroom condominiums all the way up to freestanding and villas — and prices. However, prices depend on the season and the type of residence you get. At the Hyatt Main Street Station, prices for the remaining residences range from $20,000 to $150,000 for a 1/20th (17 days a year) share. A 1/7th interest in a Snowmass Club two-bedroom residence is currently offered at $229,000, and a three-bedroom at $349,000. Prices at The Ritz-Carlton Club, Bachelor Gulch range from $150,000 to $300,000. In most cases, but not all, purchasers have the option of putting their ownership time in a rental pool if they are not going to be using it. It would be rented out like a hotel room to either outside guests or to other owners who have already used up their time. Many high-end fractional ownership properties refer to themselves as “residence clubs.” In fact, such properties have become the fastest growing segment of the resort real estate market, according to the American Resort Development Association. Club membership provides the benefits of a residence along with a bevy of hotel-style services worthy of a world-class resort. These usually include concierge service, ski valets, athletic clubs and spas, and many others. Club membership can be compared to membership in a private golf club; however, in place of tee times, the club memberships offers lodging time along with an undivided deed interest in a portion of the property itself. Some, such as the Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch and the Snowmass Club, offer golf course memberships as well. Others include ski lift packages. The success of upscale fractional ownership can be seen in sales numbers. The Hyatt Vacation Club at Beaver Creek Village sold out in half the expected time and well before its 1999 opening. The 51 fractional ownership residences of the Hyatt Main Street Station, part of a residential/retail “resort within a resort” sandwiched between the slopes and Breckenridge’s historic Main Street, have already sold more than half of their shares before opening. The Ritz-Carlton, Aspen Highlands also had brisk sales and the Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch on Beaver Creek Mountain is on its way to being sold out before its scheduled (Winter 2001) opening. Its membership sales have exceeded expectations, and are now 120 percent over plan, according to Bob Phillips, vice president of business development for The Ritz-Carlton Club.
Ownership at many fractional ownership properties also includes membership in one or more of several global vacation exchange companies, including Interval International, and Resort Condominiums International Internal. Under the terms of membership, time can be exchanged at any of the exchange company's member properties around the world. “Club membership provides the benefits of a residence along with a bevy of hotel-style services worthy of a world-class resort.” For example, if owners at a Beaver Creek fractional property decided one winter that a seaside vacation sounded better than a slope side vacation, they could trade their time at Beaver Creek for time at, say, a participating Hawaiian or Caribbean property. Chuck Madison says that while fractional ownership benefits certain buyers, it also benefits the host resort. “Fractional ownership, done right, dramatically broadens the market for resort vacation home ownership. Obviously, there are only a limited number of people who can afford to own in places like Vail, Beaver Creek and Aspen, so fractional ownership broadens the demographics dramatically.” As a result, continues Madison, the resorts get an economic shot in the arm because fractional ownership runs at about 75 percent occupancy versus the same type of condominiums that are whole ownership and run probably about 35 percent occupancy. So obviously merchants benefit significantly from that additional resort occupancy. Don Berger is editor of Vail-Beaver Creek Magazine, Rocky Mountain Golf Magazine and is a regular contributor to numerous publications.

Fractional Ownership Is Hot!
By Don Berger Fractional ownership is one of today’s hottest resort real estate markets, with such “blue chip” names as Hyatt, The Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, Westin and Marriott taking the concept to new heights. One reason highly respected companies have entered fractional ownership is that a high-end market has evolved over the years. “Many of these buyers can afford any type of vacation home they desire, but don’t want the headaches or expense of maintaining these homes 52 weeks a year,” says Chuck Madison of Vail Valley-based East West Partners, which has developed several such properties in Beaver Creek and Breckenridge. “This is especially true for the increasing number of people who have previously purchased multiple vacation homes and found they could not cost-justify the limited use of their homes. Also, they do not like being tied down to one single destination.” “Our purchasers see fractional ownership as a viable alternative to traditional real estate,” Madison continues. “They are coming here for only two or three weeks a year so they don’t want to pay $800,000 to over $1 million for a traditional property, but they do want value, equity and the other benefits of second-home ownership.” He noted that unlike some of the early “time-share” properties of the 1970s and ’80s, most of today’s fractional ownership properties offer fee simple deeded ownership complete with title policies. It’s an ownership that can be passed down through the generations in perpetuity or resold like general real estate, often through traditional brokers.
Two of the newest resorts served by Colorado Mountain Express and Resort Express are the Hyatt Main Street Station in Breckenridge, and The Ritz-Carlton Club slope side at Bachelor Gulch Village on Beaver Creek Mountain. Both are the second such clubs in Colorado for their respective companies: Hyatt opened the Hyatt Mountain Lodge in Beaver Creek several years ago, and The Ritz-Carlton recently opened a vacation club in Aspen Highlands. Hyatt Main Street Station — located on the town’s historic Main Street and within easy walking distance of the ski slopes — offers buyers a fixed week every winter, as well as an additional 10 days in the summer, spring or fall. “Unlike a lot of other vacation clubs, which simply offer a single week, we extend [the ownership time] so that owners can enjoy their resort home more than once a year,” says assistant project manager Sharon Cole. Owners may also trade their Breckenridge time for time at other Hyatt Vacation Clubs. “So you have the best of both worlds,’’ says Cole. “You can have a ski trip and you can have a beach trip.” And through an earned point system, owners may also stay at any traditional Hyatt hotel throughout the world, a real bonus for both business and vacation travelers. Other Hyatt Vacation Club Resorts include Hyatt Coconut Plantation, Naples, Highlands Inn, and Carmel. “Another advantage of our vacation club is that a purchaser buys a specific unit,” Cole explains. Many fractional ownership properties measure ownership in terms of time (days or weeks) and not in the units themselves. Because the owner gets the exact same residence every time they use their winter fixed week, it has more of a feel of a second home. Owners at Breckenridge also enjoy membership in the Pioneer Club, with its many recreational, dining and social amenities, including a ski valet, fitness center and long-term ski storage. Prices for the spacious and superbly appointed studio, two- or three-bedroom residences range from the low $30,000s to the $190,000s, the latter being for a three-bedroom during winter peak time. Cole adds that the Club also offers a “biennial share,” which may be purchased for every other year rather than consecutive years. Yet, the additional 10 days — the floating time as opposed to the fixed week — can be used for the alternative years if desired. This gives the biennial owner potential usage every year. Over in Bachelor Gulch Village, The Ritz-Carlton Club offers 1/12th ownerships in its 52 luxury one- and two-bedroom residences, which are currently priced from $190,000 to $420,000. Like the Hyatt, each purchaser selects a particular residence rather than just a specific time. The attention to detail for each residence of this ski in/ski out property matches or even exceeds that of luxury mountain resort homes. The Ritz-Carlton’s reputation for service is abundantly evident. For example, a personal concierge ensures that an owner’s personal belongings, stored between visits, are properly in place in the residence prior to the owner’s arrival. Owners also have the use of the neighboring Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch hotel’s state-of-the-art spa and other amenities, as well as privileges at two local golf courses. They can also trade their ownership weeks with other Ritz-Carlton Clubs in the growing network. One of the more recent additions to the extensive menu of Club services is the use, with 10 days notice, of a private jet from an owner's home base to the Vail Valley. East West Partners’ Chuck Madison says that while fractional ownership benefits certain buyers, it also benefits the host resort. “Fractional ownership, done right, dramatically broadens the market for resort vacation home ownership. Obviously, there are only a limited number of people who can afford to own in places like Vail, Beaver Creek and Aspen, so fractional ownership broadens the demographics dramatically.” Don Berger, a longtime Vail resident, is editor of Rocky Mountain Golf Magazine and Vail-Beaver Creek Magazine, and a veteran real estate reporter.

Shopping in Colorado Ski Resorts is Poetry in Motion
"When the going gets tough, the tough go shopping." —William Shakespeare, The Merchant of Venice OK, so maybe it wasn't The Bard who penned those immortal words, but whoever did was obviously well-acquainted with Colorado's most popular ski resorts. Honest. No matter what your needs might be or where your tastes run, you are assured of finding exactly the right thing when you shop the resorts of family-friendly Summit County, internationally influenced Vail/Beaver Creek and of course, star-studded Aspen. Summit County shopping options are virtually unlimited in all directions. At the north end of the county you'll find more than 70 brand-name shops with apparel and accessories for all ages at the Silverthorne Factory Stores. Browse or power shop — the choice is yours — the likes of Evan Picone, Tommy Hilfiger, Liz Claiborne, Jones New York, Nike, Levi's and OshKosh B'Gosh! Eastern Summit County is home to lovely Keystone Resort, where more than 30 stores provide a full range of shopping opportunities for the entire family. Here you'll see one-of-a-kind gift shops, fine art galleries and funky boutiques. Among the stores you'll encounter in Keystone are Amazonias for sweaters, Christy Sports (ChristySports.com or 1-877-SkiSmart) for all your on-slope apparel and gear needs and Gorsuch Ltd. for fine clothing and home furnishings. About 15 miles southwest of Keystone lies the historic mining town of Breckenridge, which hit "white gold" with its famed ski resort and is today a fascinating combination of Old West and new millennium featuring more than 200 shops, galleries, restaurants and bars. Geared to all ages, Breckenridge appeals to the younger set with specialty clothing at Marty's for Kids and toys at Flying Colors Too?. Active wear stores for big people are conveniently located along colorful Main Street, as well as at the base resorts of Beaver Run and The Village at Breckenridge. Good bets are Rec Sports and Wintersport. Handcrafted clothing and wearable art can be found at Breck's numerous unique boutiques, and T-shirt and gift shops are plentiful if it's a souvenir you're after. Upscale fur and leather are at Twisted Pine; down and funky hip-hop threads might jump out at you in Goods. Local artisans and internationally renowned artists are displayed at Breckenridge Gallery and Hibberd McGrath. There are also stores with racks of hats, tall shoes and joyous socks. Just point yourself out the door, and you'll find it all in Breckenridge. Smack in the middle of Summit County are the quaint little towns of Frisco and Dillon, where yet more shopping adventures await. These towns are custom-made for strolling, so give yourself plenty of time to explore. And, westernmost in the county, lies the recently completed New Village at Copper Mountain where the Mountain Adventure Center (MAC) boasts the largest rental and retail store at the resort. Look for goods by Oakley, Sun Cruz, North Face and other manufacturers. And visit Surefoot for footwear, Polar Revolution for snowboarding gear and Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory for a trip to heaven.
About 20 miles west of Copper Mountain is Vail Village, a storybook page illustrated with Swiss/Austrian accents. Postcard-perfect with pedestrian-only streets, Vail provides a gorgeous backdrop for scores of retail businesses, and nearby Lionshead is home to even more shopping options. Accessories, jewelry and gifts, furnishings, haute couture and flashy sportswear are displayed in peaked and gabled windows, and if it's specialty items you seek, Vail is indeed a very special place. Give in to your animal urges at the Alaska Fur Gallery and Designer Furs; wrap yourself in luxe fibers from Caamano Sweaters and Cashmere Vail; and suit up in something from spots where the locals shop, like Charlie's Resortwear. Designer name’s your thing? You'll find Polo Ralph Lauren right in the village. West of Vail is the young, exciting and oh-so-continental Beaver Creek Village. In an unhurried atmosphere, you'll delight to Bavarian music and a shopping promenade with dozens of galleries and boutiques. Find the perfect designer apparel and European fashions for adults and Euro/American togs for infants to preteens. Of course, you're privy to a full selection of ski and snowboard clothes and equipment, too, and the sophisticated Gorsuch Ltd. is found in both Vail and Beaver Creek. And now... we're at Aspen, a universe unto itself. Blessed with incredible natural beauty, steeped in history and frequented by The Beautiful People, Aspen boldly retains a charm all its own. It's a mix of urbane and Old West, culturally enlivened and aesthetically enriched. And shopping? 'Til you drop, honey! Downtown's Hyman and Cooper Avenue malls are home to designer shops and name-brand outlets, all easily accessible along streets closed to motor vehicles. Beyond the mall more shops lie in wait with an amazingly vast array of goods. Aspen Sports and McDonough's give you the full spectrum of American and European skiwear. Original works by Warhol, Picasso, Matisse, Rockwell and Dali share wall space at the Museum Works Galleries. However, if you're simply in the mood for a piece of fudge, finding it is a piece of cake! So is locating jewelry, pottery, Native-American art and artifacts, baseball caps (is that Meg Ryan?), in-line skates, T-shirts and fleece jackets. The Gucci label has a retail outlet in Aspen, Italian cashmere sweaters are the trademark of Manrico Cashmere and handwoven and hand-painted garments jazz up Limited Additions. And, in triumphant encore, Aspen also boasts some of the best consignment stores on the planet, with Susie's and Aspen Consignment. You will also find quality apparel and gear at the Specialty Sports network of rental/retail outlets, which consists of more than 70 stores throughout the Rocky Mountain region. Now, can we further wax poetic about Colorado and its splendid resort shopping? How's this: "Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale her infinite variety." That truism, by the way, really is Shakespeare (Antony and Cleopatra, Act II, Scene 2). Helmets Top Out as a Fashion Statement for the Well-dressed Skier Not so very long ago, anyone who ventured onto the ski slopes wearing a helmet was automatically assumed to be a nerd, at least by those whose hipness had spun completely out of control. Well, tables have a way of turning. Today, skiing without a helmet is like wearing a big sign on your noggin that says, "Nothing up here worth saving anyway!" "Helmets are the rage," proclaims Jonah Drescher, director of e-commerce for sportswear icon Christy Sports (ChristySports.com). With 40 stores in Colorado and Utah (including Summit County, Vail/Beaver Creek and Aspen), Christy Sports carries top brands in not only apparel but also gear, and Drescher says this season no one in his or her right mind will be seen without fashionably chic head protection. "Both skiers and 'boarders wear them," he says. "They are comfortable, strong and have removable ear flaps. And they might just save your life." Boeri, Leedom and Red by Burton are popular brands, and Drescher says the helmets come in "lots of colors, but neutrals are the most popular." In keeping with the helmet message, other ski apparel has turned more to function and safety than to making a huge fashion statement. Spyder, for instance, has 40 or 50 models of both men's and women's jackets. Obermeyer, North Face, Columbia, Couloir, Descente, Nils, Bonfire and Burton also carry extensive lines of outerwear. However, "it's all about waterproof, breathable material," Drescher explains. Shells repel moisture and deflect wind, and are lightweight and flexible. Gone forever, it would appear, are the days of looking like the Michelin Man on skis. No more bulky parkas over stiff bibs, according to Drescher. If there is a "look," it's sleeker and more comfortable. Also, the most important aspect of dressing for outdoor sports is layering, and Drescher says, "Fleece pieces are typically the most popular layering items. We have everything from microfleece to Berber, from lightweight to windstop. Fleece has definitely replaced wool in the land of sweaters and layering pieces." As for colors, Drescher says you'll see brights (poppy is big) paired with more subdued tones. "And undergarments are more technologically advanced and breathable, with water movement. They whisk moisture away from your body, keeping you warm. Cotton has gone the way of the dodo in undergarments," he says. Hats and gloves are also big news this year. "Hats are wool-fleece mixes and crazy designs," Drescher says. "There are so many styles out there these days that we can't even begin to name them." Gloves have gone way high-tech. "They're nearly to the elbow and are fully technical, three-piece crossovers between skiing and snowboarding. Everything seems to have more of a wrist collar or band this year, and two- and three-piece systems are very popular. A lot of mittens, for instance, will have fleece gloves inside," he says. OK, skiers go for the sleek look, but what about snowboarders? "They still wear the big pants," Drescher says. "Lined cargo pants, lined jeans. It's the style of youth, baggy and big, basically street clothing with lining." In spite of the hair thing — neon greens, blues, yellows, oranges, pinks, reds, purples — snowboarder clothing is not as bright. "It's more subdued," Drescher says. Oh, and one more thing you should know before you decide to go for a ride on Colorado's slopes: The well-dressed rider wears a kidney belt. In short, trends may come and trends may go, but it looks as though dressing for safety might be here to stay. Kathleen Thomas is a freelance writer living in Hartsel, Colorado.

An Affair to Remember
We've all done it — purchased little trinkets containing the names of places visited on our travels. The word "souvenir" is fast disappearing from our vocabulary. In its place is "memento," a lasting treasure that, without question, only could have been purchased at a particular resort. Mementos speak volumes about the resorts they represent. Status symbols, if you will, that let you remember a special time and place, and let the world know how much that place meant to you. Your memento could be a fringed western jacket from Aspen, a piece of art selected during a lazy afternoon in Breckenridge, or a signature item of jewelry, which you covet and wear proudly. Bears and Beavers The memento that has become The Symbol of the Vail Valley® is The Golden Bear™. How this tiny icon could have wrapped itself around the hearts of valley residents and visitors is nothing short of amazing. When you see a woman wearing a gold bear pendant around her neck, there is no question where her bear was born. So, too, if you see a gentleman take bills from a silver money clip adorned with a small gold bear, you'll know he's been to the Vail Valley. There's even a papa, mama and baby-size bear. Tiny baby is just 1/2" by 1/4" in 14-karat gold with a 17" chain, and costs $275 (It was fashioned originally for the designer's daughter). Papa, hanging on his 34" chain, is a big guy at 1 5/16" by 9/16", costing $1,400. Mama's size at 7/8" by 3/8" with a 28" chain, seems to be just right, and sells for $465. There's also a sterling silver bear pendant for $135. Founder Lee Kirch is delighted that The Golden Bear™ has become a tradition in the Vail Valley. The bears are produced using the ancient process of lost-wax casting, wherein molten metal is poured into a mold. Yellow and white 14K and 18K gold, sterling silver, and platinum are used to make pieces in The Golden Bear™. Pave diamonds are used to fashion the Millennium collection. Additionally, there's a host of accent jewelry, gifts and decorative pieces for your home. The Golden Bear™ resides in Vail (970) 476-4082, and Beaver Creek (970) 845-7881, or visit them online at www.thegoldenbear.com. The Golden Beaver, on the plaza in Beaver Creek Resort, fashions this resort’s namesake into spectacular jewelry and gifts. The beaver’s large tail lends itself to the most creative designs by Vino Anthony, who for the last 16 years has presented this industrious resort icon in an array of amazing pieces. There are 14K and 18K golden beavers with diamond tails, a platinum beaver with a diamond body and an emerald eye, or an all-golden beaver. The beaver pendants, from 3/4" to 1 1/2", are sold without chains, and priced from $150 to $8,000. Because many guests in Beaver Creek Resort are here on their second or third visits, and because they've fallen in love with the jeweled beaver namesake, Anthony offers a trade-up policy. If you wish to upgrade a purchase made during a previous visit, The Golden Beaver will take the item you originally bought at full value toward your next purchase. Other golden animals that grace The Golden Beaver's showcases are elk, moose, buffalo, sharks, and dolphins. The shop also features jewelry and cufflinks for men, shirts for women with an outline of the beaver traced in gold, and crystal and glassware. In addition, The Golden Beaver presents a limited edition of its gold American flag fashioned in the shape of a heart; its stars and flagpole are diamonds. The Golden Beaver is a registered trademark of Vino Anthony, Inc. You may contact the shop at (970) 949-1085, or visit them online at www.goldenbeaver.com. Golden Landscapes Aspen has no equal. Period. Its natural beauty is unparalleled. Quaking aspen trees at every turn, the nation's most photographed mountain vista is just around the bend. Since you can't pack the trees or the Maroon Bells in your suitcase, you want the next best thing to take home with you. At Goldmasters on Aspen's Hyman Avenue, designers Vic and Ellen Torell offer you gold or silver aspen leaves as your treasured mementos. Their Aspen Leaf Collection© adapts the delicate, triangular-shaped aspen leaf in sterling ($15) and 14k gold ($80) pendants. It's difficult to duplicate the dramatic beauty of the surrounding alpine mountain vistas, but the Torell's Maroon Bells Collection© stunningly portrays this famous panorama. Sterling silver pendants start from $65, gold designs from $300, and diamond-adorned pieces go up to $2,300. All feature the incomparable Maroon Bells, and are presented in pendants, bracelets, cufflinks, rings, key chains and belt buckles. These small pieces of art are constant remembrances of your Aspen visit. Goldmasters may be reached at (970) 920-9933.
The Ten Mile Mountain Range stretches from Frisco to Breckenridge, with its high summits spaced about a mile apart. Peaks 8, 9, and 10 form the backdrop for the delightful, historic town of Breckenridge. At J & M Jewelry, owners Judy Pollock and Mark Behling showcase the designs of Scott Hilty and Bill Cronin, which convey the essence of Breckenridge. One of the more popular mementos is the Ten Mile mountain ring, focusing on peaks 8, 9, and 10. Many residents and visitors have purchased this for a wedding ring, at $650. There's also a pendant with the three peaks, ski runs and trees for $375, and a bracelet depicting the entire range for $1,900, which, because of its weight, is recommended for men. Another of Hilty's designs is a pendant showing three of Breckenridge's Victorian buildings and a lamppost. To reach J & M Jewelry, call (970) 453-5637. Beyond jewelry Western wear is also sought out with all its fringed fanfare. In Aspen, Footloose and Fancy Things offers handmade belts, buckles, purses, turquoise jewelry, wallets, leather coats and vests, as well as custom made moccasins. They can be reached at (970) 925-9155. Gorsuch, with stores in Keystone, Vail, Beaver Creek and Aspen, feature the finest quality mountain contemporary wear, gifts and home furnishings. The Gorsuch family, headed by Dave and Renie Gorsuch, 1960 Olympic skiers, take pride in presenting the most impeccable, classic styling, quality and taste in the mountain communities. Their fashion collections, many imported from Europe, transcend the seasons. Call 1-800-525-9808, or visit them online at www.gorsuchltd.com. With so much attention directed to airport security and the luggage carried by travelers, The Aspen Luggage Company, a town landmark, has observed a trend: its customers are choosing the rolling duffel bag in strong Ballistic nylon, a pricey purchase, but a durable value for the times. The Aspen Luggage Company can be reached at (970) 925-9368. “Your choice may not have anything to do with your preferred resort, but if it conjures indelible remembrances of your Colorado stay, your memento will be treasured forever.” When you're on vacation, you may not think about purchasing art, but there's something about the relaxed nature of browsing through an art gallery and choosing an image that conveys the memory of your trip. Your choice may not have anything to do with your preferred resort, but if it conjures indelible remembrances of your Colorado stay, your memento will be treasured forever. Find collections in the numerous galleries in Keystone, Breckenridge, Frisco, Vail, Beaver Creek, Avon and Aspen/Snowmass. The key to choosing a memento of your trip is purely personal; it seems to revolve upon that which touches your soul. Lillian Ross writes regular travel columns for the Denver Rocky Mountain News, edits Colorado travel planners, and writes articles for Colorado-based feature magazines, including Vail Valley Golf.

Soul Food
We choose to ski Colorado because its challenging mountains offer a full-body workout. Our muscles are toned, our minds cleansed and, in the evening, our spirits lifted and palates pampered with cuisine to die for. So much for the body. On to the soul. The sophistication of Colorado's winter resorts make art, in its many forms, an integral part of a vacation experience. The well-traveled visitor has come to expect the totality of indulgence — from elegant accommodations, to gourmet dining, skiing with high-tech amenities, unique shopping, and art to feed the soul. Art has many faces. It poses as a breathtaking sculpture, covers a wall with stunning serenity and forms graceful shapes in glass or clay. It wraps itself about a wrist, finger or throat in silver or gold. It weaves exquisite threads and fabrics into fashions for home or self. And, it can be chiseled into extraordinary tableaux from solid monoliths of snow. Art reaches deeply into our psyches to touch a chord of inner peace. How could we possibly live without art? "When people are here on vacation, a definite mode of relaxation sets in, and they take their time browsing and making selections that feel good to them," said Terry McGrath, co-owner of the Hibberd McGrath Gallery in Breckenridge. "We've been showing art for more than 20 years here in Summit County and have noticed some changes and some trends. Because so many people have second or third homes in resort areas, they choose pieces of art and complementing ceramics, pottery or weavings to decorate these second homes in keeping with their own personalities. But we're also seeing, among our more sophisticated clientele, people who collect art rather than those who are just shopping to decorate. Which speaks to the fact that galleries in the mountains go beyond regional art, attracting national names and works." This winter, ceramicist Daniel Anderson, folk artist Ed Larson and fiber artist Kay Khan, among others, will exhibit their works at Hibberd McGrath. You can purchase prints in some 20 locations in Breckenridge, but only five galleries carry original pieces. One of the best is Paint Horse Gallery, owned by Jim Nicholls, a Breckenridge resident since the 1960s. His passion is art that showcases the American West — paintings and sculptures of the Old West at its finest — but he also displays memorabilia, saddles, antiques and Navajo weavings. According to gallery Director Becky Courteau, many people are searching for pieces that remind them of their Colorado trip, while many second homeowners are shopping to decorate a home or condominium. Though not a gallery per se, the art crafted from 10-foot high towers of compacted snow are executed brilliantly by teams hailing from around the globe. It’s definitely worth a trip just to watch these artisans work day and night to perfect their spectacular monoliths. The International Snow Sculpture Championships are held in Breckenridge, with the 2002 event scheduled for January 29-February 3. Aspen and art are practically inseparable, and together they’re one-of-a-kind. In the Hotel Jerome's new showcase, Galerie Jerome, you’ll find a collection of 19th- and 20th-century American and European paintings. The Hotel Jerome itself is a veritable 19th-century museum, which celebrates America's Mine Camp Victorian era. "We thought it appropriate to present works dating from the period that the hotel was founded," said general manager Tony DiLucia. "In the future, we plan to feature works by Renoir, Monet and Picasso." For the last 20 years, Aspen Grove Fine Arts has watched its clientele grow with corporate and private collector purchases. Visitors love the western wildlife oils by John DeMott, Gib Singleton's sculptures, the impressionist art of Luigi Rocca and the whimsy of Anton Arkhipov. Both African Odyssey, with its wildlife and tribal traditional art, and Footloose and Fancy Things, with Aspen's largest collection of E.S. Curtis' Native American photogravures, are stunning galleries to behold.
But one of the most unusual is set in Castle Creek, about 20 miles outside Aspen. Rent a car to go see Toklat At Ashcroft, which "feels more like a museum than a gallery," said owner Dove Hibbert. "We showcase meticulously handcrafted art and sculpture from around the world.” Here you'll find the old culture of Aztec-design Zapotec rugs from Mexico, intricate tapestries from Poland, stone and wood sculptures and coffee tables made from petrified wood. Prepare yourself for sensory overload on the promenade through Market Square in the Beaver Creek Resort. One after another, the galleries mesmerize and lure you to their stunning exhibits. The dynamics of contemporary art glass displayed in Pismo Gallery allow you to experience shimmering creativity through the shapes, designs and colors of these compelling pieces. Internationally renowned artists choose to exhibit here, among them Chihuly, Kuhn, Marioni and Tagliapietra. A testament to the diverse tastes and clientele in Beaver Creek, Market Square Fine Art features legendary French and Spanish modern avant-garde expressionists, including Marc Chagall, Salvador Dali and Joan Miro. Many artists have been inspired to paint the unique western landscapes of America, but none has followed the romanticism of the masters as well as Thomas deDecker. His mood-filled, haunting scenes are shown in Market Square's McClure Gallery. "Art has many faces. It poses as a breathtaking sculpture, covers a wall with stunning serenity and forms graceful shapes in glass or clay." Vail has shown art for almost 40 years. With experience comes the refinement of choice. The 1890s Indian photographs by Edward S. Curtis take prominence in the Cogswell Gallery. Befriended by such legends as Geronimo and Red Cloud, Curtis documented all aspects of American Indian life. As Teddy Roosevelt once said, "Mr. Curtis has caught glimpses into that strange spiritual and mental life of the Indians, from whose innermost recesses all white men are forever barred." The Squash Blossom Gallery celebrates the art of diverse cultures. In its collections are selected American Indian jewelry and artifacts, Hopi-inspired paintings and dolls, and works by contemporary Native American jewelers, such as Ray Tracey and Ben Nighthorse Campbell. Other choices are paintings, weavings, pottery, baskets and beadwork, the last word in southwestern flair. Lillian Ross writes regular travel columns for the Denver Rocky Mountain News, edits Colorado travel planners, and writes articles for Colorado-based feature magazines, including Vail Valley Golf.

Unique Finds in the Colorado Rockies
Adventure browsing outside the box By Kathleen Thomas You've been on vacation for several days, and the itch to shop is strong. Really strong. But let's face it — even though you've chuckled at every resort T-shirt slogan at least twice and have enough logo-emblazoned coffee mugs to start your own latte den, you still feel empty. You simply cannot go home without that perfect memento of your Colorado trip. Take heart, brave shoppers! For rising above the drone of malls and franchises is the lilt of funky little boutiques and consignment stores and the fanfare of designer galleries. You want one-of-a-kind? Well, it's showtime! When you look up "eclectic" in your Webster's New World College Dictionary, you'll wonder why a photo of Gracy’s in Aspen doesn’t accompany the definition. This, after all, is the cornerstone of all things glamorous and lots of things outrageous in Colorado's most glamorous town. For years it was known as a highbrow consignment store, a place where the rich and famous brought their duds for recycling. But over the last year, since Karen and Brad Carner took ownership, Gracy's has evolved to its next stage. At 7,000 square feet and the biggest store in Aspen, Gracy's has completely redefined "consignment." To wit: In the haute couture section you'll find a Chinese New Year's dress by East Coast designer and part-time Aspen resident Suzanne Gooch. Drop-dead red and resplendent with dragons and beadwork, the gown is a work of art. Jewelry by U.S. Sen. Ben Nighthorse Campbell of Colorado, work by Native American painter Gary Emrick and authenticated copies of Russell and Remington bronzes contribute to a Western theme — and a photo of Hunter S. Thompson adds some gonzo. Gracy's even has a collection of CDs by "local locals" such as John Sommers, a songwriter whose "Thank God I'm a Country Boy" was an enormous hit for the late John Denver. Meanwhile, in the book department, you might just find a copy of Lynn Erickson's work — Lynn Erickson being the Harlequin romance novel-writing duo of Aspenites Molly Swanton and Carla Peltonen. A large section is devoted to handcrafted items such as a magnificent custom-made, hand-carved juniper wood pool table that's been inlaid with silver, turquoise and arrowheads. While keeping of the immense inventory, the couple also "tries to make sure people have fun," hosting belly-dancing classes in the store every Monday night, sponsoring the outdoor Gracyfest on July 4 and Labor Day and the summer long farmers’ market, complete with live music and a local chef to do demos and hand out goodies. If Gracy's is an adventure in eclecticism, Scott Keating Design at the Midvalley Design Center in Basalt is a world tour of exquisiteness. A longtime Aspen jewelry designer with numerous awards to his credit, Scott specializes in diamonds, gold and platinum — all Aspen elements, to be sure. He also works in gemstones such as tourmaline, citrine and amethyst, designing new cuts that include his trademark "turret bar." His unique style has gotten the attention of a number of high-visibility Aspen residents, including Oscar-winning actor Jack Nicholson, parrot-head troubadour and author Jimmy Buffett, Charlie's Angels prototype Kate Jackson and the ever-glamorous actress Jill St. John. Scott says he draws inspiration from art deco, from Egypt and from the mountains that surround him. Roll them all together and you have his Viewpoints Collection and an astounding one-of-a-kind ring that retails for $30,500. Oh, what a ring. The 3.45-carat center diamond is a round brilliant cut with two side sapphires that total .95 carats. Another .80 carats of sapphires surround the outside of the band, eternity-style. All in all, the ring boasts 8.65 carats of precious gems. If you want a little leather with your diamonds, Footloose and Fancy Things is the perfect foil. What began 25 years ago as a custom moccasin-making business in a second-hand store has become an outlet for some 120 artists and their work. Owner Steve DeGouveia has many originals under his roof, including two jackets that practically shout their uniqueness. “Boot Princess” is a dynamite Texas-made, two-tone suede jacket with buffalo bone accent, fringed and fitted like a second skin. “Beaded Short Jacket,” cut like a traditional jean jacket, is soft lambskin and tricked out with black, cream and red beads. The store has a fine selection of belts, silver jewelry, buckles and art, "And we still do the moccasins," Steve says. From Gracy's to Keating to Footloose, Aspen is... well, Aspen. But there are still more unique shopping experiences when you visit Vail Valley and Summit County. At the western swing of the Valley is Beaver Creek Resort and the truly unique jewelry showcased at the Golden Beaver®. It is the industrious animal itself around which designer Vino Anthony created his beaver line "in recognition of Mother Nature's little engineer... the builder of dams and designer of ecosystems." But these pieces of jewelry are not caricatures, not cartoonish replications of a big-toothed mammal. Rather, the stunning pendants, bracelets, rings, earrings and cuff links each bear the same signature design — an upright beaver looking to its right (or left, for matching links and earrings). The pieces are in silver, 14 and 18 karat gold and sometimes platinum, and prices range from $50 to $9,000. One especially breathtaking pendant bears a 1.5-inch tall beaver with a total of two carats in his diamond pave body. His tail is polished gold, and the lively little fellow has a gleam in his emerald eye. The Golden Beaver has admirers around the globe, Vino says, and the likeness is available on a line of BeaverWear clothing — including underwear — as well as fine glassware, golf balls, golf clubs and other gift items. Vail Village is home of the Laughing Monkey, where Ghiqui Hoffmann has assembled a colorful collection of women's clothing, ethnic gift items and alpaca tapestries. She also sells sweaters by Planet Earth — the garments are her own design, hand-made of pima cotton, alpaca, llama and sheep's wool by South American craftsmen. “I design the patterns and go to Peru and Bolivia to consult with the makers,” Ghiqui says. Planet Earth is carried by her store and others in the area, she adds. Clothing is "trendy, not off the rack," and it appeals to women of all ages — "from 20 to my mother, and she's 81," says Ghiqui.
French designer Louise Della is among the labels carried, along with sweaters by Christine Folen. Jewelry includes Ayala Bar's designs, silver cuff bracelets by B.B. Becker and pendants by Chan Luu. To the west of Vail Village in Lionshead is the wonderfully named Cabbages and Kings boutique, managed by Greta Burke. "We have jewelry and accessories, embellished jeans, sweaters and fun tops. It's a contemporary look, not a particular age but a particular attitude," Greta says. You'll find beaded, feathered, laced and rhinestoned jeans by Allen B., as well as rather minimalist Seven jeans, which are "plain, low and tight." Tops are by Weston Wear, Custo-Barcelona, Anac, Galima and Language — a peasant-y look took the town by storm in summer '02. Chan Luu shows up in both jewelry and belts; other jewelry includes the mosaic and beads of Ayala Bar and a line by Wasabi. Footwear is limited to a brand or two each season, with Rocket Dogs and Geier-Wally clogs and fashion shoes as examples of what you might encounter. When you leave Vail, cross the pass and dip into Summit County, you'll find yourself surrounded by Oriental tranquility and "art to wear" at the Flying Crane in Frisco. Owner Linda Axelrod has an amazing assortment of Asian art, including ikebana vases that are painted with traditional Japanese flower designs. Flower arrangement supplies are carried as well. But neither man nor woman lives by flowers alone, so Linda carries sushi serving supplies, lots of teapots and Japanese pottery. Japanese wall art adorns the shop; sumie painting, the black ink and brush technique on paper, gracefully punctuates the area. Signed and numbered prints and calligraphy pictures of symbols that translate to mean "laughter," "harmony" and "joy" are also available. Fifty percent of what is displayed is by Canadian and American craftsmen, created "with an Asian flair," Linda says. And then there's the clothing and accessory side of the Crane equation. Jewelry includes hair clips, earrings and necklaces by Mar, Jan Michaels and local artisan Marla Starekow. Clothing, "art to wear," comes in limited numbers from designers across the country. "Styles range from dressy suits to funky casual to wedding on the beach," Linda says. Beach? Ponder that as you head to the southern end of Summit County and Breckenridge, where shopping is an interesting blend of old and cutting-edge. In the middle of it all is Bay Street Co., a departure from all things ordinary. Owned and operated by the Bingham family, Bay Street is the ground floor of a two-story Victorian edifice on Main Street. Inside are imported and domestic treasures for the home and outside you’ll find the most beautiful flower garden in the area. Dodie Bingham is responsible for the flowers, which elicit ooohs and aaahs from passers-by, and the store is the domain of her children, Candy Van Runkle, Judy Girvin and John Bingham. Candy says the buying philosophy for the store is Dodie's — stock "things you love and that amuse you." For the customer, that means at any given time and in any direction you turn, you're likely to find bright and colorful table linens, silk flowers, a line of Italian pewter, candles and bells. Select pieces of furniture to liven up a room can also be purchased. "We have pottery from France, pitchers and serving platters," Candy says. Artful accessories and original cards by local painter Lana McCleary add to the palette. Whimsy abounds as well — a carved bear or two hangs around for grins. For more carved bears and other animals, as well as log furniture for the entire house, Great Divide Furniture on the north edge of town is your place. In the historic old Quonset hut that variously served as a movie theater and a roller rink in Breckenridge's more humble years, manager Jane Timmons has a great mix of rustic log and country traditional pieces, most made in Western states and many crafted by Colorado furniture-makers. Some is hand-painted, and some are custom-made. “We have a huge amount of stuff,” Jane says, “Dressers, armoires, occasional tables, sofas, chairs, lamps and many one-of-a-kind items.” Traditional hardwood rubs elbows with lodge pole pine and aspen. “Our makers also use Mexican pine, hickory, oak, cherry, birch, maple and sometimes even bristle cone. And we have pieces made of recycled wood from old barns." The art of local artist Bonnie Norling hangs on the walls of Great Divide, and those ubiquitous bears, lawn gnomes of the Rocky Mountains, hang around inside and out. Now that you know the insider's story on one of a kind shopping in the high country, why not make tracks for one of these great stores? After all, you may just find that perfect memento in a silver-inlaid pool table, a honker of a diamond ring... or a great carved bear. Kathleen Thomas is a freelance writer living in Hartsel, Colorado.

Altitude Gives Colorado Wine it’s Attitude
You’ve heard of Bordeaux, of course. You’ve heard of Napa Valley. And Palisade. What? You’ve never heard of Palisade, Colorado? Colorado’s High Country is also wine country, and while it hasn’t attracted many headlines, it has won the attention of critics who’ve bestowed top national and international awards on Colorado vintages. Tucked amid rugged canyons, mountain valleys and desert mesas, the mineral-rich soils of Colorado’s vineyards produce snappy chardonnays, sweet Rieslings and rich merlots, plus some less traditional vintages made from peaches, cherries, pears, and even honey. At over 4,000 feet in elevation, these are some of the highest vineyards in the world. That makes for risky growing, but fantastic wine. The hot, sunny days that make Colorado summers a pleasure also mature the fruit and build its natural sugars. The chill that gives mountain nights their crisp bite has a similar effect on the wine, helping the grapes retain the acids that vintners prize. Colorado’s knuckled landscape may never produce the acres of vineyards that California’s Napa Valley boasts, but connoisseurs don’t quibble about its quality. Its wineries have won an armload of prestigious awards, from the Los Angeles County Fair, where that state’s premier wines are showcased, to the Southwest Wine Competition and the Tasters Guild International. At a recent Colorado Wine Competition, a panel of national judges scored several of the state’s wines above competitors from around the world. The landscape and climate give these wines a unique Colorado character, which experts say rivals California wine without being California wine. “Colorado does have its own unique character,” says Doug Caskey, director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board. “We’re not going to produce wine that is California style, in general. I think, generally, our wines are more elegant, rather than plump or fat, more refined rather than in your face.” You can find vineyards from the foothills below Rocky Mountain National Park to the deserts of the southwest, but the heart of Colorado wine country is Palisade, a cozy farm town near Grand Junction on the Western Slope, whose irrigated mesas above the Colorado River are home to nine wineries. VisitGrandJunction.com. Known for sweet, juicy peaches long before it was known for elegant wine, Palisade is the gateway to Colorado National Monument, a jaw-dropping canyon of soaring pinnacles and slickrock canyons that for years has been the town’s biggest draw. Now wine tours are a big rival, attracting visitors who travel from vineyard to vineyard, packing their cars with caseloads of their discoveries. Just don’t expect California-style connoisseurs sniffing, swishing and spitting. Wine tasting in Colorado is a bit more low-key, in keeping with the Western Slope’s laid-back lifestyle. Some of Colorado vineyards’ biggest fans show up in spandex and bike shorts for Palisade’s annual Colorado Mountain Winefest, when 1,000 cyclists set off on a 25-mile ride through wine country each September. “It’s kind of like drinking wine with an old friend,” says Sandra Wellnitz, who traveled from Denver with her family to tour the wineries. “I think this is really quaint,” she says. “To me they tasted as good as the wines I tasted in California.” That’s exactly what Colorado vintners want to hear. The industry has ballooned from a handful of vineyards a decade ago to more than 30 today. That makes Colorado one of the fastest-growing wine states in the country. Just as wine matures, so do vineyards. Caskey says it takes at least three years for a vine to mature, and another decade before the grapes achieve the sort of depth that wine aficionados prefer. Most of Colorado’s vineyards have been planted during the last 15 years. “The caliber of winemaking in Colorado has just increased dramatically over the last five years,” Caskey says.
Winemakers mature, too. For many, their hobby has become their business. Parker and Mary Carlson moved to Palisade back in 1977, when this town was most famous for its acres of peach orchards that lined the irrigated banks of the Colorado River. They started out making wine for themselves and their friends. Eleven years later, they bought a vineyard and rolled out Carlson Vineyard’s first vintage — 1,100 gallons of Riesling, peach and cherry wines that were snatched up as quickly as they hit the shelves. Now they sell up to 20,000 gallons a year, pressed from the three acres of vines at the winery and another 20 contracted from area farmers. About half the sales are from their store, a quaint 1942 fruit packing shed high on a mesa overlooking the Grand Valley. The other half comes from liquor stores and shops around the state and beyond. Their offerings range from pinot noir to pear-apple, and playful labels like Prairie Dog White and Pinotsaurus Red. Since they started their vineyard, the Carlsons have tried to add some levity to their Lemberger. “We wished wine wasn’t so snobby,” Carlson says, “because I don’t think people should feel intimidated about wine.” Grande River Vineyards boasts the state’s largest grape crop — more than 50 acres — enough to produce up to 7,000 cases of wine itself, and supply wineries around the state and beyond. At the 2000 Tasters Guild International wine competition, Grande River’s 1997 Merlot won a Double Gold, one of just 49 wines picked among 1,560 submitted from around the world. It was the vineyard’s third double gold and one of over 200 awards it has won. Visiting Grande River is about more than the wine, though. Its amphitheatre is home to a summer Jazz Among the Grapevines concert series, and it offers regular wine appreciation classes that try to teach without being too snobbish. That combination of elegant wines and laid-back charm is uniquely Colorado, and it is what makes visiting Colorado vineyards so much fun. Bob and Renata McHugh, of Evergreen, Colorado, snapped up two cases after visiting two wineries, and they were just getting started. It was the couple’s first time visiting Palisade, Renata says, but not the last. “This would be a good place to bring people from out of town,” she said, while her husband lugged a case of Plum Creek wine into their trunk. “Now we can brag about our wine country. And one day, we can be real snotty about it.” For a full experience of Western Slope wines, it’s worth a spin past the vineyards and a sip in their tasting rooms. But it’s not necessary. Many liquor stores keep a wide variety in supply, and don’t be surprised if you see them on the wine list at fine restaurants. Here are a few to look out for: Terror Creek Winery Nothing to be afraid of here, unless you’re scared of heights. These vineyards, at 6,400 feet, could be the world’s highest. Swiss-trained vintner Joan Mathewson creates wines exclusively from western Colorado grapes. The tasting room above Paonia is open summers from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday to Sunday. Call (970) 527-3484. Carlson Vineyards Never mind the lighthearted labels that could make a Prairie Dog Blush, this award-winning Palisade vineyard leaves sippers smiling. The tasting room is open daily, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call (888) 464-5554 or (970) 464-5554. Baharav Vineyards These whites and reds put the emphasis on green. The Baharavs handpick Palisade grapes grown without herbicides or pesticides, and bottle their vintages at their Carbondale winery. For a tasting, call (970) 963-9659 or (877) ECO-WINE. Rocky Mountain Meadery With names like King Arthur, Guinevere and Camelot, these honey wines are a royal treat. The Palisade tasting room is open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call (800) 720-2558 or (970) 464-7899. Grande River Vineyards With over 60 acres, this is Colorado’s largest vineyard. It supplies other wineries in Colorado and beyond and has garnered more than 200 awards on its own. Grande River’s amphitheatre is home to a summer jazz series. Its Palisade tasting room is open 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer, and 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in the fall. Call (800) CO-GROWN or (970) 464-5867.

Latest in Ski Fashion
Fashion and function are about all that matters on the slopes of Colorado’s resorts this season. Waterproof fabrics are a must, as are the stretch fabrics whose seamless shoulders and tapered waists create a sleek, clean look whether slamming through the bumps or gliding along the bunny runs. But colors are where skiers and boarders will stand apart. Mineral and graphite colors are still popular, along with moss, ice blue and lilac featured prominently in alpine ski shops. A subtle kick of citrus yellows and oranges, greens and blues are showing up on cuffs and necklines. Postcard skiwear incorporates old-fashioned allure with functional features to keep you warm on the mountain and on the streets, while Bogner’s line of sports gear includes silver-studded fitted jackets, brightly colored banded vests and sleek, functional ski wear for the slopes.
Couloir has an extensive line of ski gear with multiple pockets to accommodate the gear needed on those extreme backcountry jaunts; simple pastel jackets in its Velocity line; and stylish kids designs with bright colors and angled pockets. Killy’s six popular lines will again prove to be in style this year, with its traditional solid colors with complementary accents incorporated into fitted gear. Merchants can’t keep North Face’s pink Nuptse vest on the shelves with its double-layer taffeta on the shoulders, zipped internal pockets and vest stows. Another stylish jacket, by Rossig-nol, is the Castelbajac Ice line with contrasting topstitching, an adjustable powder skirt, a fur — or faux fur — and lined color reminiscent of skiwear worn in the Alps. Keep an eye out for the clever features in some lines. Nike has a personal stereo pocket with a headphone exit. Columbia has an inside pocket for a bottle of water or climbing skins. Powder skirts are hidden. With fashionable clothing that fits so well, you won’t have to think about what to wear; instead, you can concentrate on those bumps in the steep and deep.

Shopping Adventures in the Colorado Rockies
It’s not just about T-shirts and skiing anymore. Rocky Mountain resort communities have expanded their offerings over the years to include a wide array of opportunities, ranging from romantic dinner sleigh rides to backcountry adventure snowmobile tours. And shopping has grown up alongside it, offering something for everyone — from furs to ritzy secondhands — in the quaint mountain villages in Summit and Eagle Counties. Just on the west side of the Continental Divide, tucked into the Snake River Valley, lies Keystone Resort and its two villages chock full of unique stores. Soft, hand-woven Alpaca sweaters are a steal at Caamanos, while finer men’s clothing is available at Gorsuch, which also has stores in Vail and Beaver Creek. Down the valley a bit, in the burgeoning town of Silverthorne, are the four phases of factory outlet stores, where buyers can pick up everything from the essentials like Levis and Dockers, to stylish duds from Liz Claiborne, J. Crew and DKNY. Other women’s boutiques include Casual Corner and the upscale Jones New York and Jones New York Country. Men aren’t lost in the shuffle, either, with Geoffrey Beene, Izod, Hagar Clothing Co. and Nautica there for the best men’s clothing at unbeatable prices. Children’s apparel is available at Carter’s, OshKosh B’Gosh and Gap Kids, while teens can find the latest in fashion statements at Big Dogs, The Gap and Tommy Hilfiger. Frisco is an up-and-coming town in terms of trendy places to shop. The Frisco Mountaineer features a wide array of camping, hiking and ski apparel with names from Grammici to North Face. And All Seasons Sports features ski jackets from K-2, Salomon, Spyder, Obermeyer and others. For those looking for fashionable bargains, there’s Rags to Riches, a secondhand store where only the best clothing — from children’s play clothes to the occasional wedding gown — is selected for resale. Just a few miles west of Frisco is Copper Mountain Resort, where the Copper Clothing Company sells logo wear by which to remember a fantastic vacation. The village there is a work in progress, with new stores opening this winter and featuring a plethora of fashions, from simple to luxe.
Breckenridge, long known for its shopping variety, has more than a few options for those in the mood to add a little fashion to their wardrobe. 126 South is among the best shops to get stylish ski outfits, while the North Face and Main Street Outlet store feature durable outdoor gear at sub-retail prices. There are the steadfast standbys, as well, including Goods, where clothing styles for men and women are updated all the time, and Holly’s Pizzazz, a boutique where colorful, flashy clothes are sold by an owner who still loves to play dress-up. Cutting edge teen apparel is available at Big City Blues at La Cima Mall and Tom Girl, while the younger set can get decked out at Marty’s for Kids. Another fun, whimsical store is the Joy of Sox, where anyone can proudly display their hobby on a pair of socks. Over the pass, in Vail, you’ll find a wide array of shopping opportunities. Those looking for a bit of elegance need look no farther than Cashmere Vail, among the best places to get exquisitely soft sweaters; Skandia of Vail, which features original woolen sweaters and scarves from Europe; and Scotch on the Rockies, with its wide array of all things Scottish. For the sports-minded, Pepi Sports offers arguably the largest array of sports clothing for all kinds of activities. And for those who aren’t quite sure if skiing is the life for them, Vail Ski Clothing Rentals is there to fill the need for warm clothing on a temporary basis. Vail Sports, with five locations in the Eagle Valley, offers shoppers a plethora of everything fashionably hot on the market today. West of Vail, in Avon and Beaver Creek, you’ll find Blue Sage of Beaver Creek, which features a dynamic array of women's clothing, and the stylish Belle-Harney's in the Hyatt Regency. Kids can get funky hats at Brathats and everything else they need for the slopes — from Burton, The North Face, Spyder and Obermeyer — at Winterkids. Aspen — where people write the book on fashion — features numerous designer shops along with more casual offerings. Some of the best deals, however, can be found at The Thrift Shop on Hopkins Avenue, where, oftentimes, shoppers can find name-brand items that have never been worn, but were cast off from the rich and famous. Regardless of the fashion statement you’re trying to make, you can find what you need in the High Country shops. We suggest you start east and march west. Jane Stebbins is a reporter for the Summit Daily News in the High Country of Colorado, where she bikes, rows, skis and hikes. She lives in Breckenridge with her husband, John, and daughter, Erin.